Phil Green

Yep 500s here too

....bearing in mind that on a rudder/elevator setup, ie without ailerons, you'd normally use the aileron channel for the rudder function of the V tail

Blown car headlamp bulbs always have one good filament, dont throw them away just cos your 'dip' has gone!

Here you go: https://mode-zero.uk/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=1008 Be aware that there are several variations of the RF-Nano, we recommend the "Keywish" one. Otherwise a separate NRF24L01 and Pro-mini or Nano works exactly the same. I should add that within weeks of publishing, Martins design was ripped off by Lantian, a Chinese manufacturer - if you can find one, their complete unit is probably cheaper than the parts, time & effort: https://www.himodel.com/m/building_tools/LANTIAN_Portable_High_Precision_2.4G_Spectrum_Analyzer_OLED_Display.html Lantian didnt even credit Martin, all they did was to change the splash screen from 'Ceptimus' to 'Lantian'. This is really bad etiquette. HK did the same with my dual-receiver adapter 😐 Cheers Phil

Forgot to say, the value isnt at all critical, 1k to 10k ish, its just that I2C is open collector and the pull-ups return the inactive sda & sck signals to their rest state (logic high). Its so the I2C lines can be driven by multiple devices.

Seems I was fibbing (in one case) - I just dismantled an older one and it seems I did add 4k7 pullups to this one after all. But generally I dont. Honest! 😀

Odd. I've no answers Martin, just thinking aloud, the only components that see 9v are the decoupling cap and the 5v regulator, the 328P part sees 5v regardless of input voltage and the NRF part sees 3.3v again regardless of input voltage. So the only components even aware of the battery voltage are the decoupling cap and the 5v regulator. I dunno, you have a known-good RF-Nano and a brand-new display - the only two components. So all that remains is the wiring and the battery. It runs for a while then stops? any warm components when it stops? Wires too long? since thats solid core wire not stranded could there be a break somewhere mid-run? How does it do on a 2S lipo? or any battery other than the Procell? Baffled! 😆

I dont, mine have all been just the simple 4 wires, gnd, vcc, A4 & A5, with PP3 power via Vin and the 'other' gnd... which 'spare' pin? Otherwise as Mike says it has to be a power problem - maybe try some extra decoupling caps on the 5v? The EBL lithium PP3s dont generally have a boost reg, they're straight 2S, I use them a lot 🙂

Here's one that lives in a Tic-Tac box, and another lash-up, both use the same RF-Nano as I sent... 🙂

Hi Martin, this is most strange, loads of these have been built, I've done maybe 20 myself... Trying to recreate your problem I've lashed-up four over the last few days without problems, powered either from USB or via a 9.6v transmitter battery I had handy. My cased ones have used mix of Duracell & Zinc PP3s, 2s Lipos, 2s vape-cells... None of mine (and none I'm aware of that others have made) have needed the I2C pull-ups, they shouldnt be necessary as the display has its own. The suggestion was just me clutching at straws. So yours is playing up using the RF-Nano I sent and a brand new display? Presumably you've tried different batteries? Heres one of mine, they're all very similar:

Complete printing numpty three weeks into a Creality K1 here, with a question for the experts please 🙂 The original support wheels on the lower tray of my dishwasher have worn to the point the tray catches on the whirly thing below. All I have is Creality Hyper PLA and the new wheels solved the problem but as I half expected, they melted in a 60° wash. So the question is, would ABS survive? If not, what other options might? Ta v much 🙂 Phil dishwasher_wheel.stl

Could you edit the first post of this new thread to credit Martin Round ("Ceptimus") for the original design please Martin (two Martins here!) Its quite an old project, Martins original used a separate NRF module with a nano or promini, the 'easy' option uses an RF-Nano, either works identically. The display used is a 1.3" OLED available cheaply from ebay/Ali/Banggood which must be an I2C (aka IIC), these have 4 connection pins but be aware that some manufacturers arrange the four pins in a different order. Some are SPI with 7 pins - these are not the ones. Some are both which is too awkward to explain here, just buy the I2C display 🙂 Original: https://mode-zero.uk/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=17&p=18#p18 RF-Nano: https://mode-zero.uk/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=1008 If you're mounting this tiny display with four (relatively) hulking screws be aware that its a fragile glass plate over the LED substrate, if you tighten down four screws that aren't absolutely perfectly level, the display will very likely twist and separate. I generally mount mine with a dab of POR in each corner instead of screws.

Baffled as to how that could give the fault you described Martin - working only over a specific input voltage range? Normally of course the display and the 328P would only ever see 5v regardless of the input voltage 😀 Anywho, pending a parcel from Aliexpress, I have just one display left, its tested & working fine, I'll send it tomorrow Martin. I almost put it in there wth the RFnano anyway... .

As you suspect Martin I think the soft pouch variants need almost the same caution as Lipos - the metal cased A123s are the bulletproof ones. It seems not well known that you can also get genuine A123s in 18650 size as well as the 'standard' 26650 cell. My cells (hundreds!) were taken from Dewalt drill packs in 2007 (18 years!) and have been thoroughly abused in EV projects, and though I've lost a few due to over-discharging (my fault), most still perform well. I've never had a soft-pouch LiFePo4 so no experience of those 😉 Would 2x 18650 cells fit Martin?

Most peculiar 🙂 I'll send one anyway, its programmed & tested, just needs the PP3 and display connecting. Most of my 9v bits & bobs use a couple of those smaller vape cells, two are about PP3 sized. The only thing you have to be careful of is that unlike a zinc PP3 even the small ones can give several amps if you have a short, more than enough to blow a PCB track! 🥴

That sounds like the built-in 5v regulator is somehow playing up, even though its giving the right voltage. Most odd. Maybe try a tantalum across the 5v? or across the 9v input? or both? 😁 or try 100n as it could be supply noise? (unlikely on a battery) Shouldnt need any of this though, they usually just work! I just put (yet) another together as a test and it worked right away except the display (taken from a new sealed bag) had a few lines missing, swapped the display and its perfect, the quality of components from Aliexpress seems a bit hit & miss eh. I have some more 1.3" oleds on order so we'll see if they're any better!

Excellent very well done David, its easy isnt it? 😉 Honestly your post has made my day! But now you have a problem... because retro R/C is addictive! One set is not enough! Any photos of your reeds foray? Cheers Phil

Could be a duff RF-Nano, should run fine on 9v via Vin or 5v via usb... I've had a couple of duffers, which is why I was testing yesterday. There is one thing you could try. Strictly, I2C should have a 1k pull-up to 5v on both SDA and SCK (A4 and A5) but usually you get away without them. Try that, two 1k resistors (or thereabouts) from 5v to A4 and to A5, either on the nano or on the display (prob easier on the display)

Ah thats good, the only code change from Martins (Ceptimus) very original scanner is to the CE and CSN pins so it looks like your RF-Nano is yet another variation using 9 & 10 in reversed order wrt the Keywish that we generally use. Thats fine, sometimes you have to find them manually, on the T-Stars I was able to work out the CE & CSN connections under a microscope. The way the code is written its not immediately obvious how to change CE/CSN as it uses AND & OR masks as well as the pin definition, hence posting read-to-go versions. We could add yours to the mode-zero post if thats now the 'currently available' RF-Nano. So its all working ok now? PS I recognise that wire, are you ex BT Martin? 😉 (Blue, orange, green, brown, slate A-legs and B-legs white, red, black, yellow, violet & all that!) (why do I remember that but cant remember why I went upstairs?) .

Hi Martin, which version did you make, separate arduino and NRF24L01, or using an RF-Nano? (if so, which RF-Nano?) One thing to be aware of with the RF-Nano is that there is no agreement on the allocation of two NRF24 pins CE and CSN. T-stars use D7 & D8, Keywish (our favourite) use D10 and D9. Often the manufacturer doesnt say which! Coincidentally yesterday I separately needed to test an OLED and an RF-Nano so I put one of these together, works great. If you have no joy, PM your postal address & I'll send yesterdays RF-Nano FoC programmed & working & ready to connect to your oled. The splash screen should dissolve to the XY coord scales, then any 2.4 activity should animate it above freq scale Heres one monitoring a sweep generator:

Ron has just finished a 6ch version (six channels in reed-speak is 3 function, RET) Like all Rons builds, its beautifully made, take a look:

Well done David, perseverance pays off. I wouldnt say its harder its just a bit different. Pulse the controls for smoother turns rather than holding them. I like flying reeds, gliders and powered - though I seldom fly power now, I've a Tauri and a J60 both on reeds. Good luck & let us know how you get on 😉 Cheers Phil

Whoah hold on. Sorry but this is a model intended for a Cox Babe Bee, which produced 45 watts (source Peter Chin) so 150 to 200 watts is a ridiculous amount of power. The weight given in the article is 19.5 ounces ready to fly, fairly typical of a 1/2A model. My suggestion for what its worth is to look on 4-Max and pick one of George's packages of around 50 watts, probably 2S 8x4 ballpark.

Hi Pat it would be great if you could also send it to Steve 🙂 The Outerzone team have great re-drafting skills!

Theres the 'Nova' but no Supernova unforch... https://outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=8456