John Lee
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Everything posted by John Lee
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Chris, have a look at the Spektrum Air Telemetry webpage for the various sensors that are available. Link
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The following is an extract from a typical Multiplex instruction manual. Multiplex uses their own proprietary EPO labelled 'Elapor' but it is very similar in characteristics to other EPO's so I'd be vary weary of using epoxy, and if you do test thoroughly: "Important note This model is not made of styrofoamTM, and it is not possible to glue the material using white glue, polyurethane or epoxy; these adhesives only produce a superficial bond which gives way when stressed. Use medium-viscosity cyano-acrylate glue for all joints...." UHU Por also does a good job & some of my Clubmates use Gorilla glue successfully, personally I find it messy & unsightly. My standard methods to spray one half with activator & allow it to evaporate off. Use medium cyno (I prefer green Zap) on the other & bring the parts together. It produces a bond stronger than the components with no mess. Do allow the activator to dry off before bonding, it will still be effective but you don't get the crackling, fumes & heat that wet activator generates.
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Just came across this photo of the JDM Lanc with Dave Wright, from RCM&E Aug 1978:
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I'll leave it there & agree to differ.
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Again I would ask you to read the wording of the Government guidance that I quoted - "However you can and should still travel for a number of reasons, including:............ to spend time ...... outdoors..... "
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Doc, yes I agree, it was your contention that you cannot drive to fly that I was disputing.
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From a BMFA email sent to Club Chairmen & Secretaries yesterday: Model flying itself has not been prohibited during the lockdown period and as an outdoor recreation may possibly continue in public open spaces dependent on any local restrictions. BMFA insurance remains valid as long as you are operating lawfully. However, legislation limits outdoor gatherings to no more than 2 (unless from the same household) and the BMFA advises that members do not fly alone for safety reasons.
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Posted by Doc Marten on 07/11/2020 10:34:25: To comply with the rules: 1/ Yes as long as you have not driven there. Not true. From the Government guidance: 11. Travel If you live in England, you must stay at home and avoid travel in the UK or overseas, unless for work, education or other legally permitted reasons. If you need to travel you should look to reduce the number of journeys if possible. However you can and should still travel for a number of reasons, including:............ to spend time or exercise outdoors - this should be done locally wherever possible, but you can travel to do so if necessary (for example, to access an open space) I'm not advocating that you do travel but let's get the facts straight.
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I also fly off grass Capt. It may be that with all the rain we have had of late some of it may be down to water erosion from spray being picked up. The model is quite highly powered with an Axi motor. Notwithstanding this I'm very happy with the Aeronaut propellors performance and will continue to use them as a first choice. For balancing, as you say they are pretty good out of the packet but if need be I use the APC recommendation: "If your propeller requires a balance correction, we recommend that material be removed from the upper and lower surfaces at the tip of the heavy blade. A piece of clear tape can also be added to the light blade, recommended for electric applications only."
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Posted by Martin McIntosh on 30/10/2020 18:29:54: What are we to do now to get light wood? I have just looked at the Balsa Cabin site and they have suspended sales of sheet already. My LMS has a good stock but despite the fact that am no fan of panic buying I may well head there tomorrow and stock up because I generally only build from scratch. Lack of the basic building material would ruin the hobby for me and I am in the middle of a new build. I'd agree with the path you are taking Martin but if you get desperate check out the Continental shops such as Lindinger who I have used a few times (but not for raw balsa) & found to be excellent and Pichler. Delivery costs & time are comparable to UK suppliers.
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By coincidence I noticed last week that the trailing edge of the Aeronaut prop on my Wot 4 was starting to erode after about 180 flights & needs replacing. So there may be something in it, but I will continue to replace 'on condition'.
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The only way I have found to do this is to assign a spare unused channel to the throttle cut switch, say in your case, Aux 4 to switch A. The switch then has two functions, Throttle Cut & Aux 4. Then in the Warnings Menu assign a warning to Chan:Aux 4 Under 0% That does it for me, the system will then not start up unless the switch is in the Throttle Cut position & you get an audible warning, just like when you switch on with the throttle open. It works even if you are using, say, a 4 channel Rx that does not have Aux 4. Edited By John Lee on 21/10/2020 14:02:53
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I'm with Frank on this, the higher the voltage the lower the current for any given load. But if you want to check the draw at various settings this little gadget is a useful tool. And finally I would highly recommend the Optipower Ultraguard, mine saved one of my large scale models following a power failure.
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It may also be worthwhile posting on the GBRCAA Forum, their Members are the most likely to have spares lying in a draw.
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Specs here - it may be worth dropping them an email "Notes: No other arms will work on this servo, because of the unique spline size. Stock/Manufacturer #FUTM0214 ''
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If I was a retailer I'd be running down my LiPo stock as winter approaches. That said there are still plenty available if you look as posted above, also try RCFerret
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I've an ISDT D2 charger which has charged 1,356 times so far without a problem.
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The BMFA's own AGM is via Zoom on 14 Nov, your Club Secretary should have been sent the details. My own Club's AGM is by email, like others essentially rolling things over this year.
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Peeling decals / stickers on Phoenix 2400
John Lee replied to David Ovenden's topic in All Things Model Flying
My standard method that has proved successful with a variety of foamies is to first wipe down the whole area with Iso Propyl Alcohol to remove any release agents & contaminates - the release agent may be the source of your problems, David, if the stickers are OK elsewhere. I also apply a thin coat of UHU Por to sharp & compound curves which ensures adhesion in the tricky areas. -
I sometimes wonder if some manufacturers - particularly the 'cheap n cheerful' ones - actually fly & develop their models before writing the instructions & putting them into production. In my experience Sebart, E-flite, Hangar 9, Multiplex, Chris Foss, ST Models and the latest from Arrows Models & FMS have settings which can be relied upon. Others I approach with a degree of caution & scepticism.
