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Nigel R

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Everything posted by Nigel R

  1. If fitting a .90 I would be tempted to fit a fresh firewall, inside the front end box structure... insert it about 1-1/2" back from the exiting firewall, glue it all up, then just flat out saw off the old firewall and front of box. The cowl looks plenty large enough to hide many sins.
  2. Sad news, RIP Peter. So many, many designs and contributions. A mere 37 of them are up on outerzone.
  3. They're not without problems the threaded bit for the clunk is not always well moulded and can thus leak, and it takes a glow plug (!) tap to clean up the spigots are short and/or have no lip - I've had fuel lines come adrift when fuelling up a 2 line install isn't possible, which is ok can as you can blank off the third, but... couldn't one be moulded closed like the level indicator spigots? stating the obvious on this thread perhaps - the two vent/pressure/fill/drain spigots are both at the top...
  4. Whilst I like these tanks, they are, without adding a fuelling widget, pretty much stuck with draining via removal of fuel line from carb, or turning it upside down. The level indicator isn't at the base of the tank, so you can't empty it completely without tilting the model nose down.
  5. Indeed it would, short circuits tend to give you very little time, in order of 10uS or thereabouts, to detect the failure and switch off the FET, before the FET goes pop, this would be "challenging" for seven outputs and a cheap micro like that PIC.
  6. Wait, water based, single pack, and fuel proof? I feel like this should be getting more attention in the forum. We all lament the passing of solarfilm clearcoat. Can this stuff be used on raw wood?
  7. Is this a long lost crate of old production, or brand new metal coming out a re-opened line? sanyeengine.com website is alive - kind of - and seems to suggest the place getting back off the ground in 2021 (!)
  8. Brian has fine advice in his post. Just a little extra speed can work wonders - it doesn't need much to increase elevator authority at the key moment - don't be afraid to feed in a dab of power, to control the rate of descent at the critical moment and to help with flare out.
  9. I usually do 1/8" "ribs" and 1/16" sheet either side. Reasonably light, more rigid than open frame, YMMV as ever. Chilli has a nice long snout which does not suggest it will be difficult to get the CG in the right place. IME (several IC incarnations of the Breeze, IC and electric conversion of the larger one) the CG was not a problem.
  10. Just going to ask the same question. Only thing i can really think of at this point is damage to rx. The servo monitor has told you the tx is sending something to the unresponsive channels.
  11. Crikey, i wish my build projects were this quick. I can't knock out a tailplane in the time it's taken you to do the entire airframe. Nice work!
  12. Os 40 fp Simple, reliable, excellent power/ weight ratio. Best engine os made for a long time. Irvine 36 Best of British two strokes Os 46 & 61 sf Second best of os two strokes, beaten only by the fp. Recently, os alpha four strokes. Have run several sizes and all have been lovely to use. Dare I say it better than the surpass engines.
  13. There's a place advertising laser cut wood packs for the Flair scout series. Perhaps it's too late. But if you got your money back... laser cut wood https://skyhighrc.co.uk/flair-puppeteer-rc-scale-model-aeroplane-laser-cut-balsaply-rib-sets and plans https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/flyer21uk and hardware from Inwood https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202467876433?_skw=flair&itmmeta=01J8SSNR625ZK498PRHSZ75YJ6&hash=item2f24069e51:g:T00AAOSwpd1hf~j7
  14. or use your charger to do a discharge/charge cycle (fewer airframes involved etc etc) in reality, if they're still showing a decent level of charge, then they're probably just fine
  15. good shout a liberal dose of contact cleaner is due, perhaps
  16. remember the engineering mantra hoochy, "close enough's good enough" the trick is working out what 'close enough' is 😄
  17. JD I think 4 strokes not only burn some of the oil but they're also less thirsty in the first place. Win win on this front. martin, you'd want to go one size up from the 52. The 70 surpass would be ideal i think, if you're looking for a second hand motor, or the newer 62 V is nearly the same power but a touch lighter The 60 something saito also feels about right. Two stroke glow, they don't burn any of the oil, it's all going out the back. As has been already posted, an extender can get most of it clear. But how long does clean up take though, really? Five minutes? Ps confirmed glowphile here
  18. Graupner super nylons in both sizes - I'd always considered them relatively heavy props.
  19. I found similar with the 40 Surpass, 11x6 was ok, did have one or two thrown props, it seems happier on a 10x7 or 11x5. The 40 only has the simple air bleed carb.
  20. https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/root729uk 6 channel £17, doesn't get better. I'm somewhat sure you can remove the cases? The Orange R615X is out of stock at HK UK store, but in my experience is just as good. Also removable case.
  21. If that was using torque rods on a low winger, then some forward rake of the horns (as in, the torque rods themselves) is correct for that setup.
  22. If it fires, runs and dies, it feels like a fuel/carb issue. My first bet would be gunk getting into the carb. Old fuel can congeal. Lumps of gunk throw the tuning. I'd be tempted to pull the carb, remove needles, give it a soak for a few days, and reassemble. 48fs had twin needle carb IIRC, and the needles are not usually loose. They have the internal O ring, the fuel tube dodge won't work? Might be worth changing the O ring for a fresh one.
  23. Personally, I wouldn't worry about it on that size/type of airframe. Another alternative, you could (carefully) run a thin bead of silicone sealant along the hinge line, to fill the gap. Mask off the aileron first, mind.
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