Nigel R

Is this a long lost crate of old production, or brand new metal coming out a re-opened line? sanyeengine.com website is alive - kind of - and seems to suggest the place getting back off the ground in 2021 (!)

Brian has fine advice in his post. Just a little extra speed can work wonders - it doesn't need much to increase elevator authority at the key moment - don't be afraid to feed in a dab of power, to control the rate of descent at the critical moment and to help with flare out.

I usually do 1/8" "ribs" and 1/16" sheet either side. Reasonably light, more rigid than open frame, YMMV as ever. Chilli has a nice long snout which does not suggest it will be difficult to get the CG in the right place. IME (several IC incarnations of the Breeze, IC and electric conversion of the larger one) the CG was not a problem.

Just going to ask the same question. Only thing i can really think of at this point is damage to rx. The servo monitor has told you the tx is sending something to the unresponsive channels.

Crikey, i wish my build projects were this quick. I can't knock out a tailplane in the time it's taken you to do the entire airframe. Nice work!

Os 40 fp Simple, reliable, excellent power/ weight ratio. Best engine os made for a long time. Irvine 36 Best of British two strokes Os 46 & 61 sf Second best of os two strokes, beaten only by the fp. Recently, os alpha four strokes. Have run several sizes and all have been lovely to use. Dare I say it better than the surpass engines.

There's a place advertising laser cut wood packs for the Flair scout series. Perhaps it's too late. But if you got your money back... laser cut wood https://skyhighrc.co.uk/flair-puppeteer-rc-scale-model-aeroplane-laser-cut-balsaply-rib-sets and plans https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/flyer21uk and hardware from Inwood https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202467876433?_skw=flair&itmmeta=01J8SSNR625ZK498PRHSZ75YJ6&hash=item2f24069e51:g:T00AAOSwpd1hf~j7

or use your charger to do a discharge/charge cycle (fewer airframes involved etc etc) in reality, if they're still showing a decent level of charge, then they're probably just fine

good shout a liberal dose of contact cleaner is due, perhaps

remember the engineering mantra hoochy, "close enough's good enough" the trick is working out what 'close enough' is 😄

JD I think 4 strokes not only burn some of the oil but they're also less thirsty in the first place. Win win on this front. martin, you'd want to go one size up from the 52. The 70 surpass would be ideal i think, if you're looking for a second hand motor, or the newer 62 V is nearly the same power but a touch lighter The 60 something saito also feels about right. Two stroke glow, they don't burn any of the oil, it's all going out the back. As has been already posted, an extender can get most of it clear. But how long does clean up take though, really? Five minutes? Ps confirmed glowphile here

Graupner super nylons in both sizes - I'd always considered them relatively heavy props.

I found similar with the 40 Surpass, 11x6 was ok, did have one or two thrown props, it seems happier on a 10x7 or 11x5. The 40 only has the simple air bleed carb.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/root729uk 6 channel £17, doesn't get better. I'm somewhat sure you can remove the cases? The Orange R615X is out of stock at HK UK store, but in my experience is just as good. Also removable case.

If that was using torque rods on a low winger, then some forward rake of the horns (as in, the torque rods themselves) is correct for that setup.

If it fires, runs and dies, it feels like a fuel/carb issue. My first bet would be gunk getting into the carb. Old fuel can congeal. Lumps of gunk throw the tuning. I'd be tempted to pull the carb, remove needles, give it a soak for a few days, and reassemble. 48fs had twin needle carb IIRC, and the needles are not usually loose. They have the internal O ring, the fuel tube dodge won't work? Might be worth changing the O ring for a fresh one.

Personally, I wouldn't worry about it on that size/type of airframe. Another alternative, you could (carefully) run a thin bead of silicone sealant along the hinge line, to fill the gap. Mask off the aileron first, mind.

Ah yes - Magnum GP40 - part for part compatible... I have two FP 40s, both with Magnum GP piston, liner and rod, which run just as well as they ever did with all OS parts 🙂

No, my bed isn't glass. Sounds like a small upgrade may be in order.

Thanks for link to the vid course PDB. Bookmarked 🙂 I'm just using cheapo PLA on an Ender3 with pre-rolled designs - very early days for me with 3d printing though and yet to truly get to grips with it. The Ender is sloooow but seems pretty capable and is incredible value. Mine has a very bumpy print bed however which I have struggled to get flat. I'm ok with small area prints but anything bigger than about 5" x 5" starts to get sketchy adhesion. Any recommendations for a worthwhile upgrade here?

I hazard to suggest that a half second throttle response is the least of your worries if you're that marginal. Anyway, the point of the 'slow' is to get the throttle to follow the fastest pickup your engine can manage after an extended idle. It's a last resort of throttle tuning after getting the needles set as good as you can. Put it another way, what's worse for your bin bag scenario? The 'slow' response (which if set right is as quick as the engine can manage anyhow), or opening the throttle - and getting the sound of silence? Smaller carbs do seem to be easier to manage. One of the best glow engines I have owned, in terms of throttle response, is the old OS 40FP, which has a tiny carb compared to most 40 size engines (and it's only a single needle air bleed, too). It's smaller than some 20s even. And the motor will idle and idle and idle and then snap to full throttle quite happily.

Sometimes it is difficult to get an acceptable balance between ideal idle setting and ideal pickup setting. Plus engine temperature affects the ignition, as JD8 says a minute is plenty of time for the engine to cool down. And we don't have accelerator pumps so cannot compensate with an extra dollop of fuel when the throttle is gunned... Servo slow is a pretty good feature to take advantage of on modern radios.

Never tacho'd an idle for anything other than interest. Just go for the lowest that you can get it reliable. Reasonable excuse to add some flaps?

Hold on - it's legal to drop an animal from a model plane? Guinea pigs with parachutes anyone?

Another happy customer of RC Japan here. Bought some OS spare carb parts a while back. Yes, definitely Japan based! Speculation... If you're inside Japan you probably get a website in Japanese... If you're outside you get English or Chinese options...?