Nigel R

Always hinge first, cover second, glue third.

Different cat https://outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=10497 Harry Gilkes did a few 'Cats', but this one looks about right for a 30FS.

You could go for anything that used to use one of the plain bearing 0.25FP engine (Dereck Woodward used them everywhere). The 30FS is very nearly equal in both weight and power. Little Special might be my choice from his output.

I'm a bit late for the discussion here... Most current generation petrol engines in our cars are very very close to that F1 arrangement already, with a totally dry intake path and direct cylinder injection. Since mid 2000s this has become common. (see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gasoline_direct_injection) A world apart from our basic spraybar carbs. Diesel engines have been direct injection for many years of course.

Your model, your choice, no wrong answer here.

Just like a model with fixed gear except you can make it collapse in the pits by accident.

https://outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=12174 looks like a homebuilt, near fun fly performance, 40 size power not sure if that's at "the right" construction level, its fairly similar in build style to peggy sue

D box - is the sheeting balsa? I'd be tempted to make a handful of centre ribs from balsa if distortion is an issue, the wing is retained by bands?

Silicone grease could cause issue with the feedback pot, if it gets in it. You need something ok for electrical environments, and nylon, like, Electrolube SPG. I've no idea what's in hitec grease, but you certainly don't get much of it for your money!

That seller has been on ebay for a long time, selling pretty much only engines. I suspect he may sell more engines than you think.

SLEC are great. The one or two minor errors in my entire order history have been sorted, instantly and without quibble.

Wrong (inserted from above): Right (inserted from underneath): See: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/blog/tips_on_rc_servo_installation_and_setup/?___store=en_us

Self tappers in a glass nylon mount, for me, every time. Quick and easy and stay firmly in place. One caveat, use decent screws, not ones made from cheesium. Oh, and, correct clearance hole. But. I wouldn't change what you have, no point.

George always appears to specify small batteries aimed at short flights. YMMV, quite literally. Never in a month of Mondays will you see 920W from a 40 2-stroke on a standard silencer with a 11x6 prop and 10% glow fuel. A 0.40 will show about 600W, or 0.75 shaft HP. It's been done to death before, but the published figures for two strokes are likely to be ridiculous nitro content fuel, tiny prop, and unrestricted exhaust, in order to get the biggest number possible (before the conrod gives up). Start propping sensibly with regular fuel and a decent silencer and a very different picture appears. 125W/lb isn't underpowered, either, and I say that as someone who generally attempts to fit a fairly spicy motor to my airframes.

Try this - https://web.archive.org/web/20190820062937/http://godolloairport.hu/calc/strc_eng/index.htm

Exactly what I was suggesting doing. Apologies if my post wasn't very clear! Although I would use 1C and expect about 80% capacity to show on the discharge cycle. Decent manufacturers do provide discharge curves for various different load currents and they are repeatable. If you go from those, then the figures are not optimistic at all. If you expect the nameplate capacity at max discharge then you will be disappointed, and the datasheets for nimh cells indicate the capacity is nominal at 0.1C (or similar low discharge). I've not seen a credible manufacturer claim anything but this.

Every so often, you could use a multi charger to run a charge/discharge/charge cycle test to see what state the pack is in.

I like trikes, so I would stick with that. Flexi cables can sneak around all sorts of obstacles if you did want to retain steering. But. A fixed nosewheel is never really a problem - I can't remember the last time I had steering, either nose gear or tail wheel, and don't really miss it, after all, "build it to fly". That said I fly from grass fields. YMMV, etc.

Proper shop, proper brand, proper kit, happy punter.

Definitely list separately.

Can you post a photo of the complete model? At this point I'm assuming it is a high wing trainer type... but pictures and 1000 words etc. It would help anyone on here to know what you have. I think you'll want to change some or all of the pushrods / closed loop and clevises as well, sadly. Again, picture of the whole thing will help.

I'd agree with kc, the formers look too weak to me. And cutting holes in things is generally (a) a lot of work, and (b) not worth it. Formers can be made from four short strips of balsa, two upright, two across - you get the grain going in the right directions that way. Plus they can be knocked up from scraps. The shaped top deck formers I'd just cut from sheet wood. Keep it simple, is a good mantra. Don't gold plate it!

Judging by the rust around there I'd agree with getting rid of the existing servos and radio. I guess this has been kept in a damp garage or shed?

That makes one hell of a good noise.

www.dspowerservo.com They do indeed make 9g servos... 😈