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Nigel R

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Everything posted by Nigel R

  1. I agree with Cuban8 here. Learn to fly the model in its various different attitudes and positions, do not try and pretend you're a passenger in it. As an aside, this aspect of flying is one in which you can make very, very fast progress using a simulator.
  2. Do more useful stuff. Do less useless stuff. Details TBC.
  3. Thing is, nuclear power plant quality software costs a bit much. We never have the forum if we wanted that.
  4. How hot and how cold are we talking? If they've been sat doing nothing, the only other things that could really happen are related to moisture and rust.
  5. Quite. They're not auditors. I'll use the word "wally". Are often best avoided or ignored.
  6. I use one of the £25 folding workbenches: Mine long since lost its adjustable top. I replaced it with a simple plank of wood. At each end of said plank, I've attached a cradle. These are strong enough to restrain any of my toys at full throttle. My flight box is large enough to span across the lower supports, and provides a convenient way to weight the whole ensembled down.
  7. As ED says. I've assumed there are adjustable clevis at the elevator end of the pushrods.
  8. I'd probably bend the ends of that wire over at 90 deg, glue / bind them to a hard balsa block or short length of hardwood dowell, then bind a third short length to go to the servo. Nylon thread, epoxy, some scrap wood, would take only a few minutes to do. Certainly permanent enough for a 25 size airframe. Effectively, a (very very short) dual pushrod - which were common (as kc noted) on old 60 size aerobatic airframes in 70s/80s/90s. Two micro servos also works fine, but the single standard servo install is already there.
  9. Try this link https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256337117822 It has "new batteries" 😄
  10. Must admit, 1/4 ply firewall at correct angle, plus glass nylon mount, seems like an answer without issues.
  11. Buy it, draw around it in on paper, cut a set of new parts and go from scratch. Balsa, liteply, foamboard, world's your oyster. It's all straight lines and square edges - by design it's meant to be simple. Treat anything you can recover from the 'donor' as a bonus.
  12. Nylon mounts only need self tappers but your brass shim will work perfectly well.
  13. I've just checked the plan on outerzone. It shows the zero degree datum line along the fuselage side, which the bearers are parallel to, and what it then says is simply a one word instruction - "shim" - by the engine. The angle is drawn on the plan. Personally, if sticking with hardwood bearers, I would notch the formers F2 and F3 in a slightly different place, to account for this angle. It would be easy to extend the thrust line already shown into these formers, and cut appropriately. That said, I wouldn't use hardwood bearers. I'd just angle F2 at 1.5 deg (or whatever it is) and fit a glass/nylon mount to it.
  14. If you're sticking with hardwood bearers, just fit them exactly as per plan. If you're converting to a plastic mount, you'll want to align the firewall at right angles to where the hardwood bearers would have gone.
  15. Slec make laser kits for just one or two of the old precedent designs. T180, stampe, fun fly. Maybe one more? Can't remember. Not sure there is much 'relationship' per se? An updated version of the best - hi boy, lo boy and bi fly - would be quite nice to see in their range, but, c'est la vie.
  16. See here for pdf version: https://outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=13085
  17. What are you building? Picture paints a thousand words. Can you post a shot of the nose of the model?
  18. Or maybe a bit more seriously, Hi Boy and an LA 40 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363797997487 or a Lo Boy 5: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166474722401
  19. how about this one? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285141267219
  20. Nigel R

    Profili

    https://www.mh-aerotools.de/airfoils/hdipolar.htm
  21. That makes it a completely different prop with far higher loading on the motor. Apples and oranges. You can of course convert from a given two blade to a three blade with equivalent load, and it will produce (give or take) the same thrust. Full size aircraft use high blade count props and have done for years.
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