Capt Kremen

To paraphrase a film/tv titles credit statement: "No Sullivan Clevis Tools were harmed in the fixing of the Riot!" 😉

Many sports flyers enjoy the Max Thrust 'Riot' in its various formats i.e. Foam or Balsa/Ply airframes. I recently acquired a second-hand but totally un-flown foam 'Riot' V2 version. I am in the fortunate position of having a generous quantity of quality model part spares such as motors, wheels, servo, clevis and control horns gained after many years modelling. Just as well, as the attached photo show the state and poor quality of control horn as supplied with the 'Riot' and received out-of-the-box. This is therefore an advisory to 'Riot' owners out there, check the condition of your fittings, they might just be about to fail like the one pictured did. I also had one of the cheap plastic clevis literally crumble too. Thankfully none of these occurred while the plane was in the air and were caught beforehand. My 'Riot' is now like 'Triggers Broom'! Replaced: Motor, Prop, Spinner, U/C, Wheels & Axles, All Servo, Control Linkages, Ball-Head Clevis, Control Push-Rods & Runs.

The 49” Challenger ARF does NOT include Motor, ESC, and servos.

All R/C Glow Engines For Sale - None boxed OS40LA engine complete with silencer - Un-Used Power Wing FZ53 Four-Stroke Engine complete with silencer - Very Clean, Very Light Use Thunder Tigre Pro 46 Engine complete with silencer - Un-Used O S 40MAX FP R/C Engine complete with silencer - Well used but still a runner PM me with your offers please. Thanks for looking. 😉

Have recently flown the T-Tail 'EasyGlide' Aggressor. Flew well BUT lots of niggles with assembly due poor QC and fiddly, poorly thought out servo plug coupling arrangements, to name but a few. Down to a (expensive) price not up to a quality, typical of many ARTFs. Wonder what it will be called in other countries when it surfaces there as these model mouldings do e.g. Max Thrust 'Riot' is called the ArtTech 'Devil' in the US.

The 'Chapter One' plan by Nigel Hawes was published in the Nov. 2014 RCM&E as PART 7. In what Issues of RCM&E are Parts 1 to 6 featured?

Whilst the MPX 'Cockpit 12' Tx has calibration capability, (carried out and indicating successfully all correct), the MPX 'Smart SX' Tx handset/controller does not have any LCD display and no description of a calibration process appears in the MPX manual accompanying the set. With the MPX set-up, the control surface variance remains. I will set up a Spectrum 'buddy-box' test rig using two fully re-calibrated Spektrum Tx and see if they (still) indicate a control difference on switching between.

Thanks Andy, tried that several times, still a trim/control variance of up to 5mm approx. (elevator and aileron in my case), between Tx switching 'tween the two. I am curious to know how many others and with other radio makes e.g. Futaba, FrSky, HiTec etc. this difference occurs. Could explain away a few of the 'difficulties' encountered between the Teacher & Pupil, especially during early stages when getting to grips with just keeping a model in the air!

Recently I was made aware of an issue which had not, to the best of my knowledge, shown itself before. On linking a MPX Cockpit Tx to a MPX SX Tx Handset for training purposes via Bluetooth wireless link, on transfer of control from Master/Teacher Tx to Pupil Tx and subsequently back, some control surfaces moved to adopt slightly different neutral positions. (Enough to potentially cause a change of model trim). I repeated the test and observation using two Spektrum Tx, (a DX8 & DX6i via cable connection), similar slight changes in control positions on transfer were noticed. In both instances, all Tx trims were centralised to begin with i.e. not off-set, all Tx fully charged/fresh batteries installed and the same Rx and model installation servo used. Control end-points checked as well as any mixes which might be present, no obvious cause except perhaps component variance e.g. pot resolution(?) Searching through the manuals of both radio manufacturers, I can see no mention of this anomaly or how it might be rectified or compensated for. Obviously the Master Tx flying a model in trim then transferring control to a pupil Tx with it changing trim/control position is not ideal or desired. Have others noticed this with their training link/buddy-box set-ups? If so, how did they resolve the issue? Once the pupil has enough flights under their belt/log book, the teacher probably intervenes and takes less control, so the issue is likely less noticeable but the crucial initial first few flights are likely to be critical.

Radiomaster Rx can be assigned a number, as can Multiplex Rx too which is then associated with the specific model that Rx is installed in. If you remove and install that Rx in a.n.other model the association/link continues unless otherwise re-numbered and of course any model specific changes are made.

Currently an all-fixed wing club, as part of looking at opening up our horizons, we are considering introducing Quad & FPV operations to our all-grass countryside field. We do already have a small indoor venue, (Village Hall), where the typical 'Whoops' micro/mini craft can be flown. Questions: Do 'conventional' fixed wing & Quads/FPV flying on the same site work in everyday, all-weather practice? Initially, we're thinking of limiting the size of Quad, likely to be 4-5" rotor size, not the mega size machines many professional photo folk use! If so, how has your club/group arranged and organised it? Otherwise, is it best to keep the two types of craft totally separate i.e. each use their own dedicated sites? Also, being very conscious of noise, what is the best practice for noise testing Quads? (Have looked at the BMFA site and it's not that helpful specifically regarding Quads - We already noise test all models as a matter of routine to comply with all recommendations). We intend to have a trial, see what the response, participation and overall interest level is. Possibly we may attract some new and younger blood into the club, well that's one aspect too! (Yes, like many if not most clubs, the current average age of club members is north of 60+!) Any other aspects, safety, practical rules we should consider, organisations to contact? Thanks in advance for any constructive and helpful information forum members may provide.

+1 for a Sean Bannister 'Algebra' - Mine was from a commercial kit. (Was it Ripmax?). Conventional tail, not the 'V-tail' version. Veneer covered foam wings, ply fuz as stated. Also, I had fitted a nicely moulded Radio Sailplanes releasable tow hook to mine, remember them(?) Shared Uxbridge Common Sports field with Sean back in the 70s when he was (test?) flying it. I was flying a free-flight Keil-Kraft 'Caprice' with D/T and fairing pretty well against the 'heavier' R/C model launched off a bungee.

Subscribe to 'Readily' and you can read not only 'RCM&E' online but 'FMT', 'Model Airplane News', Other Model Magaines e.g. 'Airfix., 'Model Boats' Trains galore AND all manner of Magazines, Daily Newspapers (including UK), from around the world.

Time marks in 'catch-up' link 1:33 to approx 1:53, (with music tracks interspersed!).

Are the ADS Beacons battery powered? Most flying clubs operate from fields not immediately connected to mains power.

I had heard 'MetroBank' were offering free banking to organisations such as our flying clubs. ( I do not have an account with them so cannot comment on the quality or otherwise of their services).

Muscle memory can play havoc in a panic situation. If you are a (Mode 2) power flyer and use the left stick for throttle, it can catch you out in those split second decisions if you then utilise it as a spoiler control with throttle on a switch. Yes, I appreciate it probably is a finer control for gliders but I've seen several glider guiders caught out and damage their precious machines as they struggle switching and juggling between switches and sticks.

Have built a couple including the 'Chipmunk' (see pics) Quality materials, plan and instructions as is usual from Stan. The model, (mine anyway!), was quite fast and needed taming on the controls. (I like to fly as near to a scale speed as is practical and possible, not flitting around like a wasp!) Also built the 'Wallaby' sports model which again is a quality kit and makes a reasonable hack model for all conditions. Agree, can't fault Stan Yeo for his excellent customer service, he always goes the extra mile to satisfy.

Web Site? Contact Details for the 'Mr Vintage' kits please ...

A fellow modeller who has not flown for some time due health issues, wishes to responsibly dispose of old, no longer viable, glow fuel. This is a relatively small quantity, approx 2 plastic containers worth. Local Domestic Refuse Centres vary in their acceptance terms and may levy disproportionate charges if the do accept fuel/oils etc. What do i/c flyers do in this situation?

For info, the July issue of 'RCM&E' is now available to 'Readily' readers.

Have look at the Whistling (Foam?) Toy Rocket/Footballs on ebay & Amazon. They feature the surface mount whistle. There are a few cheap ones among the eye watering expensive ones being offered! When permitted, I have dropped these from a model and they really do whistle quite audibly. Not sure they match a jet sound though????

+1 for Radiomaster - So flexible

There have been many in depth science based articles on this subject down the years. (Search the net and you should turn up a few). As Allan says, what ever paint used should be tested first though water based acrylic will probably be the right choice. As for colours: Ask yourself why are many military aircraft camouflaged? So those colours and schemes are best avoided and ruled out straight away! Large width alternating black & white stripes on the underside of wings, (see typical WW2 Invasion schemes), can work well. Chequered squares, whilst perhaps looking good close up, do not work at any distance. Fluorescent colours such as displayed on RAF training aircraft of the 70s, can help if applied in relatively small areas on wing & tail tips. The only issue is these colours can be prone to fade with time. Dark, solid colour leading edges are also suggested. The backdrop you fly and operate against should also be considered i.e. trees, hillsides especially when landing and the plane can 'disappear' as it goes below the blue/grey sky line! High contrast, large areas of colour can work. Use an artists colour wheel to find extreme contrasting colours or pick up a few paint charts from your local DIY store and play with the swatches to see ones that work and of course you like. If you're a full-size plane spotter, look up at the high altitude trails and see which tail fin colours work (well) against the blue sky. The solid red fins of many really show up. Just some ideas to consider.

There was no hard copy in our well stocked local newsagent either .... might take up trains .... there's rows and rows of their mags ... full & model size!