Chris Walby
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Everything posted by Chris Walby
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Thanks again chaps for you advice Paul Marsh, Yes, I'll PM you, Cheers
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Cheers chaps, I'll either buy one off ebay or fit an elevator torque rod (I like these even less than the connector idea) after all its AUW is just over 1 Kg and 40% of that is the lipo! Edited By Chris Walby on 14/11/2017 20:58:31
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Advice from the collective please 38" electric model that needs twin elevator control rods so I thought I could use one of these, but this one is spoken for! 2mm rod Questions Is there a better way that's as quick and simple? What's the darn thing called? And apart from ebay where can I get some from? Thanks in advance
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I'll check with the Firetrace guys, but I am sure our equipment at work is protected with foam as trying to put a fume cupboard fire out with 0.5 m/s face velocity would be pointless with CO2 (just like trying to put a lipo fire out with CO2). My example just showed what was available as part of their wide range of solutions. PS A K21 two seat gilder has a max take off weight of 600kg and its not possible to put in a few Kg of fire extinguisher in. PPS Some gliders carry water as ballast, perhaps a dump to battery bay option is better than having to leave it and deploy the parachute! This would not add any additional weight + they don't mind gliding with the dead weight of the battery/motor anyway.
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Well I just asked my 17 year old son, which is hardest to easiest as he is solo in a glider, has an A cert and has just started driving a car.... Car - as there are a lot of numpties to avoid Model aircraft - as orientation is significant issue Glider - being in the aircraft gives the feel of what its doing As a glider instructor said the powered planes can't stay up without the engine & then don't have to land on finals, so what's more difficult to fly! Tin hat on, so fire away
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IMHO I am with Phil, paint over existing. If you recover its likely you'll need to remove control surfaces, cowls, covers etc. A lot of extra work in my book as it will still be a ARTF model in the end! One thing worth bearing in mind is visibility, or lack of it! If new to warbirds you might have your work cut out with the new flying characteristics plus gear, flaps etc and the last thing you'll need something where the camouflage really works well! My vote would be to buy/finish and fly, then at a later date give it paint job. If all does not go to plan you can change the colour while repairing it after a more serious incident! I really don't like invasion stripes, but sometimes its only the bit that I can see clearly (lesson learnt flying in poor autumn light & getting dark!)
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From the AAIB report: Other information The pilot reported that in January 2017 one of the FES battery packs from G-GSGS fell from his car onto a paved surface through a vertical distance of around 0.2 m. There was no sign of damage to the battery pack following this event. The pilot did not record the serial number of this battery pack and therefore it is not possible to determine whether this pack was the battery that caught fire during the landing at Parh am Airfield. What is concerning is there is no automatic fire suppression system (that could warn the pilot that its deployed and limit the damage to the aircraft. Firetrace **LINK** I wonder if the electric race cars use fire suppression systems like the F1 teams?
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Blackhorse Heinkel He 111
Chris Walby replied to Cliff Bastow's topic in Build Blogs and Kit Reviews
Really sorry to hear the bad news, it is one of those models I keep looking at and thinking I should give it a go so thanks for all the posts on the build. Were you using 1/2 and then full flap or straight to full flap + any delay in deploying them? I know my BH mossie pitches up so I try and time it with lowing the gear as that has the opposite affect, but its always an anxious moment flicking the switches! Not sure about the HE111, but the BH Mossie is not built to be repaired without adding a lot of weight, it seems to be constructed with maximum air, minimum balsa and a cleaver use of factory jigs which proves very challenging duplicate on a bench. Hope you find another project to take on in the near future, all the best. -
Only been flying 4 years and apart from plugging a JST in to a 7A ESC the wrong way around (so much for it only fitting one way) I have not had a DOH moment...apart from our open day this year in front of a large crowd! Got the Vulcan out of the car, put the wings on and sat it on its dolly. Lifted on to the ground and tested control surfaces all okay. When the time came carted it all on to the runway, hooked up to the bungee and noticed the castor wheel was not quite straight (viewed from the back) and even got one of our instructors to fly it. It would have helped if I had put it the dolly on the right way around (castor wheel at the front). PS all glued back together and maiden for the 4th time!
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So why did he put the flaps back to normal once he had the main wheels on the deck? Is that normal or just he has a long tarmac runway?
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Question for the experienced among the forum relating to foam veneer wings. I need to join the wings (in a removable way) to a balsa fuselage and intend to use a ply plate on the wing against the fuselage to facilitate the existing retaining screws and wing tube. There will be a need to locate an outer wing tube in the foam veneer wing about 12 inch long and 5/8 dia and was wondering on the best way of making the necessary hole as cutting foam can get a bit rough? I’ll need to make a jig up to hold the wing at the right dihedral angle and a sliding mechanism so its really how I get a clean cut and then how to glue the tube in. If its a nice clean hole I thought UHU-POR, although you guys might have a better way especially if the hole ends up a bit rougher than intended? Last question, I was intending to use shrink covering and then paint over, but if I cut the veneer away for say servo cable runs what’s the best way to make good and keep the structural strength of the veneer skin (or does it not really matter)? Thanks in advance
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Perhaps I could be enlightened as to why some models have push rods (for elevators and rudder), some closed loops and the as much as I have seen a preference for closed loop rudders, but not closed loop elevators?
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Keith, I will no doubt get put right by the more experienced and more knowledgeable on the forum although IMHO give my view (tin hat at the ready) as its not to ask why you are forced into a down wind landing situation, but accept that Murphy's law will exercise itself one day! I would keep it simple and what you have the most experience of so on that basis I would be most used to a models flying characteristics in its normal flight trim (not full flaps and no power) and giving myself the least things to do (finding the flap switch on the TX, possibly the gear switch and why not have a play with the rate switch as its between the other two!). Spend the time working out where the model is going to end up and what options you have (do you need to hop it over a hedge or get it down in the long grass before entering the woods!) Okay the groundspeed will be higher down wind, but if you are used to how it behaves in normal flight then for me that's the best chance of not needing a bin liner or two. Far easier to land than attempting stall recovery at low level. I heard a very experienced pilot once say "don't push a bad decision as the result is always something worse" so unless you have practiced dead stick landings with full flaps this might not be the best time to start! Now in bunker fire away!
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Richard, There have been comments on other threads that they phasing it out and its is not being updated, however that would not put me off recommending it as a useful training aid. The existing software has plenty of models to choose from although not the latest model updates are available I would not worry about that as the specific models do not fly exactly as the real life model anyway (close though). See if you can pick up a second hand Phoenix dongle lead, if not buy from a supply that says they have one in stock and get flying in the comfort of your living room!
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Hi, Had a look but can't find the typical AUW of the WWXL? Anyone know?
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As mentioned above my vote would be pc flight sim to get the hang of orientation and which control does what, then either a glider or foam trainer (electric). Youngsters (x-box generation) can pick up things very quickly and retain it longer. I would suggest running through the BMFA starters guide as its beneficial to instil the safety side plus you can work through it in a modular way to keep her interest. A bit radical, but how about a delta (4-Max Yeti) easy to assemble, she can choose her colour scheme from the rolls of packing tape, pretty indestructible and will fly in all weathers. Only down side is no rudder and landing gear, but that can follow with a standard trainer. Lastly, if she is interested in flying herself it would be worth considering contacting a local gliding club, trial lesson and some clubs run cadet schemes or apply for a bursary to ease the financial strain (actually it just allows them to fly more). Technically she could be solo by 14 so worth a visit to the British Gliding Association web site.
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Personally I am totally appalled by Plowman Craven who try to impress by flying directly over a public car park while filming two east coast mainline trains passing above on a viaduct with a second drone. IMHO they are taking unacceptable risks that we as model flyers would never do purely to promote their business. I would like to see their risk assessment and mitigation plan as if they lost a large commercial sized drone through the drivers window of one the trains at worst or at best having to retrieve it off the overhead lines on the top of a viaduct!
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Paul Heckles - Excellent training session!
Chris Walby replied to Jonathan M's topic in All Things Model Flying
I think I'll chip in, as there is more than one way to skin a cat (in figurative terms). If your club has plenty of instructors willing to give up their chance to fly on the few good days of weather while competing with all of the fair weather pilots crowding the flight line then that's one way. This might extend the time it takes to progress with specific skills and is it fair on the others wanting to fly while you practice set routines? There is an alternative and that is to book a slot with instructor, so what do you get: * Their undivided attention as you are paying them * An empty flight line allows for more set piece work and try that again practice * Drawing on the instructors experience and skills including model set up * Between instruction sessions you can practice what you have learnt * You can plan a structured and timely approach while working to your goal, we effectively have a flying season and trying to stay motivated throughout the winter will be hard For me It was money well spend, for others its not needed as they are happy where they are or they can obtain the skills by other means, each to there own. -
Not tried castor, but I have been messing about with fixed and steerable on a launch dolly for a model with no U/C as it has a habit of not getting away on a hand launch if its calm! With the fixed tail wheel on the dolly its a complete nightmare! Okay it goes straight as I taxi, but then it all goes horribly wrong! The more power I put in to get it to a launch speed the more it turns left! I had about six goes and aborted the last take off after it had completed a full 180 and was coming back towards me! Its one of those situations where the more aggressive you become the worst it becomes as it won't take off at taxing speed, but the harder you try the worse the result. You might be able to counter the left with lots of right rudder, but I would be concerned about drag and what happens as the tail wheel lifts and it snaps back. I don't know what the interaction will be with the main U/C and CofG plus a caster at the back, but you might be more prone to ground looping it if its just on a castor? My vote steerable with springs if you can, failing that fixed to rudder directly
