Chris Walby

Well done and good to see another one in the sky. Strangely I much prefer it in high rates than low (did produce some very impressive banks on to the flight line!). I must be a bit odd as I do like the sound of a couple slightly unsynchronised Laser 70 as it heads away. All the best and let us all know how you get on with it

Question for those with either Laser or WOTs WOT XL experience or both! I was just musing, nothing definite you know......well not quite yet...but the nights are closing in... My electric WOTS WOT flies very nice, but I have never really forgiven it for the battery falling out and it is likely to become the winter hack so leaves a gap in the hanger, honest. Would a Laser 155 (in stock) or a 180 (out of stock) be best suited for a WOTS WOT XL, Ability to climb vertically, but not prop hanging required. I am in no massive rush although its always worth having a few projects lined up.. Posted on this thread for obvious engine selection reasons, so please keep it directly related, thanks

Favourite model is a tricky one as it really depends on criteria, but if I am only allowed one it would have to be my old and tired Black Horse Speed Air. Its was originally electric and a great workhorse for getting me through my B + lots and lots of hours practicing all types of moves, but always without any vices. It now has a new lease of life (for an old dog!) with a Laser 70 and again flies without vices despite my new boy ham fisted engine tuning. Tough as old boot, fly in almost any weather, no vices and flies electric or IC depending the resources available on your desert island! Others are better in certain departments, but to just turn up and fly in "British" weather it would have to be an all-rounder like this but that's just my opinion

All the best for the event Geoff and my advice is practice little and often, but most of all enjoy the event and take it easy! PS Let us all know how you get on, watching with interest. (luck has nothing to do with it, its preparation, more preparation and experience that gets results!)

DH, Nice photo Could you post details of the model please

Thanks for the update, will the maiden be tomorrow at the BBQ?

Thanks BP, I did a search for 'Vinyl Cutters' and gto no return then tried just "vinyl" but didn't spot 'Vinyl Cutting' buried in 2012. I would have thought products and technology have moved on a bit since then hence the reposting of the question. Cheers for the info Pete, looks like that could be going on the Birthday present list...at least the better half can't complain its another model!

Noticed that some modellers are using these and was wondering how useful they are and what different applications they can be used for. Decals simple roundels. Can you do complex shapes/multi colour? Masks for painting Make/model of cutter in use would be a bonus I have feeling that although not essential, once you have one there are many uses

Wow, if you apply the 10-10 rule (excluding <10C) for our club days (when most would turn up and fly) I get 124 days out of 1328 days of data (less than 10% of the time). You guys really don't like flying...

MattyB is close, but IMHO one other factor is important... What each individual pilot is prepared to lose in the event of meeting the ground in an unwanted way. I have a foam delta (4Max Yeti) which is almost indestructible which I will fly in nearly any wind because its low cost, has no U/C and the prop is at the back! HK foam glue N Go are even cheaper! For me its not wind speed, but how gusty it is and direction (our field has trees to one side that cause turbulence) that are for consideration. So 10mph gusting 15mph scores (gust squared/average) 15x15/10=22.5 very nice so get the loved balsa Warbird out! And 10 gusting 25 scores = 63 might be best getting the Yetti out, score >40 and its getting more tricky All done on a spread sheet thus just bash the numbers in and see what the score is, then head to the flying field and enjoy some flying.

Geoff, How will you know one switch has failed? Switch A on, powered up, switch B on, then switch A off and check and then switch A on before flying..bit of faff, but if it saves a model I suppose its worth it as long as you remember to check it every time you fly ebay do 6A SPDT? or go for two batteries to be doubly sure....HK FRS Failover Regulator Switch 5A-Plus (£14) and you might get stiffed duty on it. At least the RS one's should be good quality...only trying to help

As long as the con rod is a good fit in the crank pin I am sure it has not worn a grove, that will be the manufacturer squeezing as big a con rod and stroke as possible without making new crankcases IMO the getting hot sounds like its running lean possibly due to an air leak somewhere. Experts please chip in..

Andy, Fast taxi and you will be flying! Mine has no issues with getting off the deck with no flaps, just be real gentle on the throttle and she will lift off no trouble, in fact keeping the nose down scale like is the hardest bit. I'll measure the wheel diameter as I am sure mine has larger wheels, but from memory they completely fill the standard wells. . Knowing BH there will not be much wood, so if you open the wheel wells up you might end up rebuilding the wing (lesson learnt on another BH model!). While I remember I needed to put a flat on the oleos so they don't bind on the retracts, just watch out as the oleos are not a thick as you might think If the grass is short I don't get any nose over issues with the wheels I have. It is still work in progress for me but I would suggest starting off with the C of G further forwards than BH spec (4mm at the moment) but I will try it further forward shortly). It flies ok where it is, but gets all pitchy with the gear down and flaps 1/2 which is not what I want for landing . It was blustery Sunday and after a couple of aborted attempts I put the flaps away and landed a bit faster! All the best

Bob, sorry to hear about the flight, at least I got a few flights in until the battery fell out of mine! It had one side of the fuselage, carbine and holes in the underside of the wings so was repairable and is back doing a sterling job. Mine flies a very wide speed envelop and will whistle if pushed in a dive (although I take that as a warning to back off ) Let us know when you get it back together and all the best.

Geoff, I wanted something a couple of years ago that was quick and easy to build, did not cost much (in cast I buried it) and in all fast in flight As a bit of fun I when up to the BMFA for a day of pylon racing (check out the superb venue) and see what this area of the hobby had to offer. It was a great day seeing some truly ballistic ic and electric planes flown with awesome skill. I managed 8 out of 10 laps before dead sticking with lipos at 2% and hot to handle, but what was very clear was that a guy with a EFX paid less, flew faster, got 10 laps easily and had just as much fun! I am all for building and really enjoy balsa bashing although not very good at it, but some things have improved with modern materials and techniques. Thinner wing profile, less frontal area and probably less drag. The lesson learnt is if you want speed don't bother increasing the power, just get something more slippery! If I ever need another fun fighter/pylon racer it would be a EFX/V300 or a Cambria FF as both are more slippery modern designs (IMO). The first unpack add RX and fly with the other the fun/time building first. The OP was for an electric FF....although if its speed best invite Dick along with his glider!

I have to disagree, so once you have bought it, made it, covered it, fitted the servos, ESC, motor and prop, will have change out of £129.80? You still won't have: • 100mph+ performance right out of the box (on 4S set-up). • Specially designed 3536-1780kv brushless motor with high-speed Japanese bearings. • Powerful and fast 9g digital servos. • 3S or 4S as standard • Supplied with 8x6 propeller for 3S and 7x6.5 propeller for 4S set-ups. • Super Compressed EPO foam construction. • Larger internal capacity • Glass and carbon fiber reinforcement throughout the airframe. • Full wing length spar • No glue assembly. Just clicks and screws together in minutes. • Ball link control system. • FPV Mount • Slope soaring nose cone • Full complement of spare parts available. Failing that how about a Cambria fun fighter?

I have an electric ME109, easy to build and flies will, but rather old school and not very fast (I am pushing 840w/lb). There are name sake and far eastern versions that are more up to date, cheaper and faster! IMHO

Thanks for all who have contributed...I'll read through in detail and digest, then see if it helps with what I have.

General question for the model gurus amongst the forum as I suspect there is no specific answer, but its opinions I am after. I assume some aircraft are more tolerant of C of G movement and some less so, my question is what affects this? As an example I have a foam EDF that is 1500mm long, AUW 2.5Kg and its C of G moves backwards when the gear goes down by close to 25mm. From gear up to gear down this causes a noticeable pitch change (which with a bit of mixing I can sort out if I can keep it in the air long enough!) and sensitivity. It’s the sensitivity change which is the surprise/hard work aspect. If I move the C of G forwards I reduce the sensitivity, but with wheels then up run out of up elevator Examples of aircraft C of G tolerant and non-tolerant please?

Andy, You probably know already, but just in case I would not be too tempted to have a lot of surplus power (remember power corrupts and absolute power corrupts absolutely!) . What I mean is mine does swing a bit on take off , but is easily corrected and is off the ground in no time at all. if you have an excessive amount of power it will be more work keeping it under control and the risk of snapping the throttle open and getting swing/roll will be harder to manage. PS I like my 3 blade prop, looks nice and gives good low speed performance. If I need speed my FF ME109 at 840w/lb will suffice, but boy does it have a wicked roll on launch! Let us all know how you get on with the build, cheers

I would have thought the larger diameter and lower pitch prop would be the way to go assuming the airframe can swing a prop diameter you want (ground clearance). The other limiting factor will be the amount of power the engine produces over its rev range. If to put too larger prop on it will create too much load across the engine speed range and not allow it to rev out. You could try the 23x8 (if you have one) and see how it goes (that's 2 inch diameter and two inches on pitch) which it a lot more load on the engine so it might not pull it. Better to get a 23 x 6 if you can...or 3 of 4 blade and same pitch as they should be okay at low speed. PS Jon might be on holiday, but he is watching

Andy, Well I few it today although it was a bit murky there was very little wind, result as it was really nice Adjustments made prior to flight were: Moved clevis's to maximise servo movement for correct control surface throws (as per manual) Moved C of G about 3mm further forwards than manual states It nosed over on taxi after a greaser of a landing (much better than the Wots Wot flight prior!), plus was on high rates as well Conclusion: I messed up with too much elevator travel and not enough expo from previous attempts to keep the tail down Flight on low rates is very sedate and gear + flaps 1/2 caused no issues (although with a bit of head wind it won't be a problem anyway). Full flaps don't look that severe but might make it more work than they are worth as it flies in smoothly anyway. If you want my TX setting PM me. Both of us at the field remarked that due to the colour scheme it looked like a silhouette most of the time and I would recommend the maiden on a nice bright day until you get used to it! Thanks to Jon and Martin for their helpful advice, cheers PS how are you getting on?

Levanter, Very nice looking model and with that weight reduction I am sure it will fly well. Most impressed with the colour scheme and let us all know how it looks in the sky!

Why would it be piracy the product is protected by the dongle not the software. I have it loaded on two PC's but can only ever use it on one as I only have one lead. PM me and I'll post you my disk if you want.

Any news of finding out what the issue was....