Martin McIntosh

I bought two Spektrum DSM1 sets from my LMS for £50 each when they were available, including AR6000 Rxs and some excellent Spectrum branded servos (actually E-Sky). Got a couple more Rxs from the USA. I found these to be pretty good, only one Rx failed at switch on but was instantly replaced by the importers. I lost one in an electric glider due to a massive thermal, but I still had control, even when it was spinning upwards! I found that these operated OK on my DSX9 so sold the sets, keeping the servos and two Rxs. Previously I decided to see what the range really was, so placed the Tx 18" above ground, put a Rx, servo and battery in the car and drove off waiting for it to failsafe. After 1/2 mile to the main road and despite five hedges it still worked so I carried on for a couple of miles, including up and over a steep hill, still no failsafe so I powered it down and back up - no signal but it reconnected at the 1/2 mile mark, rather impressive.

The grub screw will eventually bite into the soft piano wire and come loose unless another means of locking them securely is used, otherwise don`t touch them with a barge pole if you value your model. These were introduced on small ARTFs to make installation simple, and of course they want you to keep buying their models.

All very fine if you are into electronics and know what you are up to, but the OP is obviously a newbie so keep it simple, i.e., a suitable UBEC. They certainly need no less than a 2s Lipo for input.

OK thanks for your interest. Martin.

Don`t know if you got this or not. Aylesbury, Bucks.

I actually got round to flying this today now that I can see models again. It was a bit slippery for my launcher to get a grip but after a hairy start it flies well and would have been better if I had checked that the aileron rate was on low! 40% expo saved it. I shall now glue some sandpaper to the fus. just aft of the wing.

Hi Pete, Davin Matin on the other thread is also doing that but I warned him that the rearward added weight would need an awful lot in the nose to offset it. A simple castoring leg like a Spit. is all you really need (and yes, this is from experience).

Having built and flown one of these plus a couple of other smaller ones you will not need it to be steerable. It would add weight just where you do not want it.

Now got this and installed it in my Seagull Cap 300 which is my flying testbed for gear. With the gyros set to the recommended 2 o`clock position it performed well in the wind today so I shall install it in my Laser 70 powered Tiggy which needs one. It dawned on me that I already have one of these in my 48" Dalotel but not had much chance to try it. Only problem is the start up procedure but I shall get used to that.

I had a problem with a joiner on a petrol motor and was recommended some Teflon which melted as soon as I opened the throttle. Remember that petrol dissolves silicone. Better to use flexi pipe with lightweight jubilee clips.

OK thanks.

I am still getting a notification of every new advert which is posted. Please fix.

I have gone for the NX3 delivered from UK at £18. Supposed to support dual ailerons.

Years ago when the price of a set of gear was through the roof you only got four servos and had to use messy bellcranks or strip ailerons. With the advent of computer radio you can now individually trim, set the throws and adjust differential, thus simplifying the set up considerably. It would not occur to me to only use one.

Thanks, where did you get them please and do they cater for dual aileron servos?

I think that I shall give that a miss, £45 to £60 for the full version is too much for me, but thanks for your replies so far.

I failed to notice that. I always use dual ailerons but SMC do not stock the alternative and I have managed to cancel the order.

Looks to be what I want so have ordered one, thanks again.

Thanks, I shall look at those.

Thanks for that but I already have too many Rxs, looking for a plug in one which could be transferred from model to model initially.

Can anyone recommend a reliable and reasonably priced stab. suitable for small/medium sized scale models? I have dabbled with one or two from HK but do not really trust them. Just to stop them bouncing around in the wind would be good as I do not need one for normal flight. Some can be enabled/disabled using a spare channel but not had much luck getting this to work. A course in Chinese would probably have helped.

Having now got my vision sorted out I decided to fly it a few days ago. Luckily I tried it on high rates because I needed 1/2 up elevator to keep it in the air and had to dump it in the long hay crop which resulted in the fus breaking in two and a gash in the wing. Totally my fault because I had the tail at completely the wrong incidence! Lots of work correcting this using a laser incidence device. Took it up again today and it flies perfectly, which is more than can be said about the landing which resulted in damaged retract units but I was well pleased with the result in general.

I see that you mentioned 17kg estimated for this. Mine turned out at about 12kg (28lbs). Are the motors 52s or 70s ? I only had 2x OS52 Plus 2x OS 26 which was only just enough.

If it is of any help, I use an acrylic satin finish or Rustin`s satin floor varnish depending on electric, petrol or glow power on my WW2 birds.

OK, I see what you mean. I have always done as marked on the `official` scale drawings. This probably changed over the years.