Philip Lewis 3

Line it with a double skin of plasterboard, that will give you some better fire protection. Don't forget to line the back and front as well as the sides

Not just laser, this is a self-levelling laser! 😀

Right, onto the rear stabiliser and rudder, the hole for the stab tube you have to cut yourself, this is the template that helps to make sure it's cut in the right place with the various cuts labelled. It's located securely with the triangular ply pieces in the rudder slot and the ply tab goes against where the tailwheel will eventually go. Once that is all cut out the stab tube is very slightly lose in the fuselage so careful alignment with various pins and scraps and before the epoxy sets make sure it's all aligned. The laser line on each tip is circled. Onto the wings next.

This plane uses pull pull on both elevator and rudder, dificult to show but this is the view of the elevator servo from below. The rudder servo is above it. That sort of nomex structure doesn't accept screws it just crumbles, so they give you these to glue on top of it to mount the servos's. Didn't like that idea so I made my own out of 1mm carbon sheet. That is the rudder servo as shown from above.

Ok, so on to the canopy fixing, I drilled holes in the canopy like this Then put the canopy on to the fusealage attched with masking tape in the right position and reached up from underneath to mark out the hole position on the fuselage with a pen and then drilled those out as well. Obviosuly the fibreglass is to flimsy to support the rods so they need a wood backing block. Then put the canopy on and glue on the opposite backing plates on the fuselage making very sure to not get any glue on the rods themselves. Next cut a slot in the front to accept the pin from the latch and glue the canopy latch on with wooden ply wedges too give it the right angle to enter a plywood crescent shaped piece of ply glued into the canopy. Thats the boring bits out of the way, I promise it will get (slightly) more interesting from here.

That indeed does not look good Duncan, I used to use Zippy's but when HK had a fit and no supply I switched to Roaring Top, they have always been in stock and really quick arrival on Amazon if that is important, highly recommended they have been really solid, literally (so far).

Yes, the objective is to reduce the wing incidence.

Ideal temperature to operate a LiPo battery, about 35C. So long as it isn't actually hot why not recharge it? In the winter it is likely to be quite beneficial to the pack as the one thing LiPo's don't like is being charged and used when cold.

OK, so onto the wings attaching to the fuselage. First off we have this: Which needs to come up from below like this: So measuring twice and cutting once mark out where to cut: Which then looks like this and then carefully file away where the wing tubes will go and check for fit: Bottom wing is similar proinciple, start with this: Drill out holes in the fuselage step at the bottom after VERY carefully making sure the holes are in the right place: Then check for a good fit and then drill out the holes for the tubes in the wings: Dry fit to check and breath a sigh of releif when it all lines up: A look at the wing tubes glued in, the seam in the fibreglas make drilling centrally a lot easier: Assemble dry, check for centrally fited and make sure tip to tail measure the same both sides glue in place and then leave overnight: Wing rear mounting: Essentially do the same for the top wing, finished view from the top: That's basically it for the wings, the fit perfectly and they are square. Next up is the canopy which being about two feet long is going to need five mounting points which might be a tad tricky to line up!

Extend the end points as far as possible, unlike a servo it will do no harm they just need to reach the "trigger point" to opperate.

Back in the old DSM days it was well known that Spectrum receivers had a much higher voltage at which point they would "brownout" (shut down) than other receivers hence the caution, they would brownout at over three volts whereas other receivers continued to function down to way less voltage than that. However that was a long time ago and I beleive was fixed some time ago now. You can probably find some old video's on U Tube about it if you search.

Deluxe Materials Aero Tech Epoxy for gluing together and to the fuselage and East Composites Laminating Resin for the lamination, I like to buy British where I can and these two companies are excellent in every respect.

OK, lets make a start on this, we get the three central parts in the first photo to form the U/C plate, that central part looks a bit weak to me being a carbon nomex construction so I laminated it with two further 1mm carbon sheets using the part supplied as a template for the U/C bolt holes. Then glue that lot together to form this. Then glue into the fuselage itself, 70mm from that former behind. While that sets get the legs prepared, one on the right is done the one on the left is yet to be done, basically shorten by 5mm and drill through the two dimpled markers and the third at the very end of that line, then glue blind nuts in place having flattened the spikes back. Next up with (trembling hands) is to make the holes in the fusealge sides for the legs to get in, in theory you can measure this but I opted to put a 0.5mm end mill bit (end sharp as a hyperdermic) under the gear plate and punture throught the fusealge side to get a marker for the underside of the gear plate and then gradually enlarge to what is needed, (apologies for the blured picture). All done then insert the legs correcting any small errors and check for correct tow in and tow out, now it looks like this. View from above. Sorry, so slow but that's it for now, but slow as some of these laminating epoxies and glues take 24 hours to achieve strenth, next up the two centrally mounted servo's and then the wings need a method to be attached to the fuselage.

I would replace that straightaway, the simple answer is it shouldn't do that, so replace it with a new one that doesn't.

FrSky and Jeti dual receiver set up's control all of the channels all of the time and on two different frequencies with two separate RF transmission modules.

EDF nothing special required but if you mean real jets i.e. jet turbines then probably most popular are Jeti and FrSky, principally because both offer 900 mhz alternative (868 mhz here in the UK and EU) frequency back up receiver options which in a multi thousand pound jet is considered essential, epecially in North America where they have been experiencing a lot of 2.4 ghz interference. They will also both run LUA scripts which can display all the turbine data on the tx screen, there is a FrSky TX called the aerowing version which was designed in collaboration between FrSky and Global Jet Club.

Before you try this make sure you check your specific router, the Linksys ones I use in our F3A scoring system run on 9 volts and I use these to provide the 9 volts from an old no longer good enough to use in flight 5 cell LiPo, if anyone is interested an old 5,000 mah LiPo would power said router for 4 or 5 days.

I also connect the two bullet connectors together, as much to show the recycler that it is truly flat as much anything else.

They all are though, that said I only build a new one about every three years which cushions the blow, price above is also ex vat and delivery and it doesn't end there, what goes into it isn't exactly cheap either.

Is there any interest in seeing a sort of build blog of this, OK, not a traditional build in the balsa sense but not exactly just an assembly either, this is about as much of a build as you can get with a full composite, this is pretty much what comes out of the mould, nothing at all done for you further than that.

Not if they are installed mirror imaged, if so they will always need one reversed in the same way that ailerons mirror imaged can always use a Y lead because one doesn't need to be reversed.

A lot of Audi's do that, and the amount of tilt is configurable as well.

Yes, in dual elevator servo's on separate channels one of them will always need to be reversed.

I think you need to answer your second question first, in fact why go from a live current and curently being developed still further system (which supports multi module) to either Open TX or Edge TX in the first place, if it's just to releive boredom and experiment then fine but that can obviously cause problems if you aren't carefull.

I think quite a lot depends on the car manufacturer, I've got an ex Audi demonstrator with every conceivable extra and all can be set as early medium or late warning and that stays set, obviously they can also be turned off completely, they work really well with the exception of the lane assist which down a country road picks up only the left hand side of the lane so will try to steer you down the middle, however that is turned off by a button on the end of the stalk not deep down in a some menu. Start stop used to anoy me but not so much anymore as it fires up the engine when the car in front moves off and the all round camera's not allowing you to hit an object you can't see to either front rear or either side are a real blessing, I really like that.