Ron Gray

No need for down or side thrust, it flies just great as designed.

My suggestion is that the PVA was thinned too much. I use the Hobbycraft brown paper and don't have that problem. Regarding the bubbles, no need to peel it all of, just run a scalpel gently right the way down the length of the area then 2 more cuts at the ends of the line to form an H. Gently peel back the brown paper, it has bubbles so it won't have stuck down, apply some more PVA to it then smooth down. I suspect that the reason for the air bubbles is that there was either insufficient PVA on the brown paper or it had dried out before you laid it down, you said in your post above 'It seemed to start drying on the paper quite quickly'. There is a bit of a knack to this brown papering lark but you'll soon get the hang of it.

This news really is a bummer. I've got over 20 Laser engines not just because they are truly excellent engines but the support from Jon is miles above that from any other engine manufacturer imo. It really did seem like the start of a new era with the in-line twins and the flat twins being developed so this announcement has come as a great shock. Looking ahead, there is the event at the end of September at Buckminster which has the Friday dedicated to Laser engined powered models and the Saturday and Sunday to the 'Best of British', I see no reason for this to change so I will still forge ahead with the planning but maybe now it will give us Laserites (I just made that up) a chance to mourn the passing of this truly great marque.

A straightforward modification!

Real world range of my Ioniq 5 based on my driving over the last 6 months, in warmer weather (last September / October) I was getting just over 4 miles per kWh which gave it a range of just over 300 miles. In colder weather this dropped to just over 3 miles per kWh which gave it a range of 240 miles. The manufactures say 315 miles. I really don't care what magazines say, these are my figures based on my real world and the resultant range plus the expansion of the charging infrastructure gives me no range fear.

I was going to put a comment on here along the lines of there isn't a lot of difference between the 2 (apart from the nose) before I realised that Keith wasn't comparing eggs with eggs, more eggs with an omelette. But my suggestion would be to do what I plan to do, buy 2 kits, make one as intended, the Tempest, then butcher the other to make a Sea Fury.

Thanks for clearing that up Jon, it's a great shame as the engine is excellent and I, for one, will not be selling the one I still have!

Bill is correct in what he has posted I'm afraid!

Chapter 4 - Fuselage rear

Somewhat disappointing but hopefully the engine will not need any manufacturing support for many years, after all it is a Laser. Obviously that doesn’t help with its sale or its resale value! Best I look after my one.

Mix ratio and heat, the warmer it is the faster it will cure.

The Dynam FW190 does exactly that.

Music to me ears!

Love it, and the thought off getting my panel saw out again has me drooling 🤤

Hell’s teeth Matty, that was a shock. Get well soon mate.

Happy Birthday DD 🎂🎁🎈

Nice

On closer inspection after the tyre had been removed you could see a very small slash, no more than 5mm across but looks like it was caused by a flint. Hey ho, new tyre fitted and all is good apart from a lighter wallet.

Video of the build

Great stuff Richard, looking forward to getting my hands on one!

Reduce the amount of elevator control and make sure CG is correct.

My pilot, Hans Free, is about 1/8th scale and could be a tad larger as he really should fill the space a bit more. If you look at any photos or footage of pilots in the FW, there isn't a lot of room in the cockpit!

Following the build of the WR FW190 and the build of the launch dolly for it, I've been asked if I would make some of these for sale, so here it is. The following photos show the prototype for which I used C/F tubes but the production version has plastic (electric conduit) tubes instead. The frame measures approx 600mm x 600mm but the fittings can be positioned to suit the model it will be used for, in fact if you use screws to attach the fittings it can be adjustable to suit a range of models. There are 2 options for purchase, one with wheels and the other without as there are those who may have a stash of old wheels that could be used. If supplied with wheels the fronts are 6" dia and the rear 3". The foam support pads are included and the rear one is left ready for you to form a cut out to suit your model. The 3D printed parts are ASA so they should be OK for all weathers! Note that the following photo doesn't have the front nose support but that is in the kits plus it uses C/F tubes for the frame whereas the kits have white plastic tubes. The 3D printed parts Prices (inc UK P&P) as follows: Kit 1 - £45 Plastic tube 600mm x 2 Front wheels 6" x 2 Rear wheel 3" x 1 Front wheel bracket / wing supports with foam pads x 2 Rear wheel bracket / tail support with foam pad x 1 Front nose support with foam pad x 1 Fittings - nuts and bolts for wheel axles and wheel spacers. Kit 2 - £30 As above less wheels and fittings.

Chapter 3 - Hinge shrouds

For those who are still building or haven’t started yet I would strongly recommend strengthening the motor mount plate. I thought mine was split but it turned out that it just flexes a hell of a lot! I’ve now applied, with difficulty, some carbon tow to the back of it and into the fuse sides and the improvement is amazing. If I was building it again I would double the thickness of that plate.