Jim Hearnden 1

The issue appeared to be they flew their models in isolation & thought they could fly RC. But when given a model that was more mainstream they struggled. For some weird reason they'd bought a part completed DF model with an OS91DF. Not sure RET vintage style stuff will give you the skills you need for that. Yup don't over power them & use the throttle anyway. Its certainly a different flying experience.

Junior 60 look alikes, so late 50's early 60's What would now be called vintage designs but weren't 30ish years ago. I don't know why they'd gone this route, they weren't club members or similar. He was my barber in the village and knew I flew RC. that's how I knew him & his SiL.

Depend on what you want. If you leave it as it was then its effectively guided free flight. My view if I'm fitting radio is to fly it as a an R/C model. One group of guys I used to fly with flew with traditional free flight models with RET. I believe they were of the Junior 60 ilk. They struggled when I let them fly one of mine, it was a Yamamoto type trainer and was relatively low powered (Merco 35 I think). But didn't have the super safe, slow flying characteristics of their radio assisted models.

Greater airspeed, so it will generally "kite" into any form of head wind. Assuming the power level & therefore still air speed remains the same, then any wind you fly into will be added & effectively you're flying faster. In a full size you frequently need to change trim from flying downwind and turn into wind.

The old thread used to be 1/4UNC Best option is to use an M6 tap & re-tap to M6 and use M6 nylon bolts. Probably easier than removing the captive nuts and replacing. Looking at my thread tables M6 tapping size is 5mm 1/4 x 20TPI UNC is 5.525mm so not strictly kosher but should be OK.

As ED said, free flight models of this period ran a fair bit of wing incidence together with positive tail incidence, often with lifting tailplane sections. This means the C of G is frequently 60-70% or so. Reducing all the incidences & running a C of G around 25-30% makes for a much nicer flying model. Also less "kiting" when its breezy & flying into wind.

Head gaskets affect the squish, which on a glow 2 stroke is the timing adjustment. Normally as nitro level increases you reduce gaskets & increase the compression & squish. I suspect the engine is designed for all world markets & the two gaskets are used in markets where Nitromethane content is lower or non-existent. Europe tend to use straight or 5-10% whereas the USA markets tend to use 25-35% as their standard. I have found SC/ASP engines of all capacities etc happy on 5% fuel in all weathers, although in cold winters I used to use a small amount of unleaded petrol, which improved starting & idle when it was brass monkeys. Too old to fly in that these days!

What ED says above. But I've designed loads & excluding the really odd ones then 20-25% has always served for the first few flights. As for throws typically around 10-12 Degrees with 50% more on full rates. In the absence of better ideas this is a good starter for 10.

The USA always used 1.5V plugs, probably because they had decent dry cell batteries to power them. Bare in mind that the USA was the home of glow motors originally. Not sure where 2V plugs originated. probably Europe where 2V SLA were freely available. I always used a 2V lead acid with very long, thin leads until I came into the 20th Century & used a glowstick. 2V plugs are like hens teeth these days but I remember were OK with a 1.5V source. In those days lots had power panels with a 12V SLA and a voltage reducer which you adjusted for a dullish red on the plug. Oh happy days & how time moves on.

I used RC Japan for some YS & Saito spares a while ago. They were excellent, good comms & once in stock (the Saito bits weren't) they shipped quickly, no VAT or anything else.

As I said last night Gary a bit of a conflict, but I'll try

One of my models had a home made foam wing which had been left bare (no veneer) and I covered that in Solarfilm. It worked well & lasted a long time. So no worries about temperature.

My Yamamoto was my original trainer & started flying with a fairly knackered Merco 35. That engine had done various duty on a control liner & a airboat where it went swimming more than once. One of my favourite models was a Neiuport (not the Flair one) which flew with a heavily silenced OS40FSR with a 12 x 6 scimitar prop. A pig to get off the ground once in the air at half throttle it was fantastic & chugged around looking totally real.

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OK I hate building, yet at the mo seem to be doing no flying and a lot of building! Two models a small 25" wing, based on a wing half laying around. The other is a wedge model called Wedgeable. 48" span, using a foam wing laying around my office. Probably from Inwood models years ago. This will be electric with a PO3541 1270 from 4 Max. 60A ESC & 3S 2200 or 2700 LiPo. Still a long way to go, I seem to be doing lots of thinking & little action, but it is close to 30 years since I last designed & built! Shocked at the price of Balsa. If this is successful may build a smaller one in Depron for indoor flying later in the year.