Jim Hearnden 1
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Everything posted by Jim Hearnden 1
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I used Mike at the Model Radio Workshop a few months ago. Quick & very thorough. The issue is you can pick up a better JR Radio from E Bay for a few quid.
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Frog .049 glow (the one like a DC Wasp)
Jim Hearnden 1 replied to Robin Colbourne's topic in IC Engines
Hard to turn on a part of a revolution normal signifies bent crank. SPI improves scavenging but can reduce power with a silencer, with charge dilution -
Look at life. Model planes tv programme
Jim Hearnden 1 replied to Gavin Mack's topic in All Things Model Flying
Worth watching the Doodlebug one as well! -
In the early days definitely not. But later on most definitely.
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I have never used a filter onboard the model. I use a filter on the end of the fill tube so as I fill the tank the fuel gets filtered. I have never had an issue with contamination.
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This is strange. A couple of months ago Matt How of APOB had a pic on FaceBook of a wedgie model he was selling. This caught my eye, so over the past few weeks whilst on boring conference calls I have been doodling wedge shaped aeroplanes on my pad. I had some foam wings sculling around the workshop doing nothing & started cutting balsa at the weekend. Then I find this thread. Linked to Wiggo & a USA design called Notforsale. Oh well nowt new under the sun!
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Generally on these sort of things its due to a dodgy USB cable from my experience. Find another decent mini USB lead & try that. Also do NOT connect the lead & device when downloading & installing the software.
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There's a whole generation coming along like this. I gave my niece, now a Doctor something one day, which had no plug. I gave her a plug & screwdriver, she openly admitted that she didn't know how to fit a plug. One of my neighbour's sons abut 30 had an issue with his car, I jump started it & got it running & suggested me or a garage doing further investigation. He replied "don't worry I am getting another car in a week, because of the problem!"
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Compulsory reading for me was Pete Russell & Straight & Level. He went down some rabbit holes over the years V1 turning without dihedral & P effect being two. But he was a font of knowledge.
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How old is it? Might be worth "borrowing" a tank full of something else from a fellow modeller
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Blimey Idle bars take me back. I've never needed one or used one. But I used to use Fireball Hot in most engines (NOT RACE) and they were fine. I used Taylor as well. I suspect that these aren't available these days. But yes sometimes playing with plug make can help.
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What fuel do you fly, an old trick used mainly in the winter is around 5% petrol added to the fuel.
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Everyone has an "issue" with certain makes of kit. One swallow doesn't make a summer. Years ago everyone flew Sprengbrook. Why Harry Brook was based on the South coast & his repair guy flew with our club. Most stuff got turned around super quick after crashes etc. Then they went DigiFleet as they were just down the road. All without any major grief. The only recurring issue I remember was a Sprengbrook user who had crash after crash, obviously radio failure, when it was eventually found it was a duff switch harness which worked 99% of the time. The repair guy found it after running it on a vibration rig at Plessey where he worked. In those days switches were A. reliable & B. fairly expensive so you didn't throw them away on a whim. I had MacGregor both DigiMac & later JR. I went to Sanwa basically because I raced cars & they had a decent micro servo at sensible money. That morphed into Sanwa Stac 4 which I learnt to fly with. Then my ex (who ironically had been MacGregors finance person!) bought me my X347 in 91/92 as a Xmas pressie. Its been JR ever since.
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Question is what's the issue with the JR? Aside from a weird problem 30 years ago when I bought my X347 (temperature sensitive Xtals) which MacGregor resolved instantly. My JR stuff has been bombproof. I'm in the electronics industry & modern gear with SMD & generally better build quality is head & shoulders above what we used to have.
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No one has mentioned the plug. Years ago when I used to sort out quite a few engines, I'd ask how old is the plug & get a blank look! A shiny new Fireball or whatever I had spare would solve the problem instantly. When I raced boats I carried a magnifying glass. If you look at a dodgy element it would be crystalline white, not shiny.
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And Prius and Insights
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They're at 'untingdon so Norff of Cambridge on the M11/A14
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Just been recommissioning a couple of old models & a few new ones bought recently. One of my own design is looking tatty. But thinking back it dates to around 1990. So 34-35 years old. It came as a shock because I still tend to think of the 70's being 30 years ago rather than the 50+ they actually are.