Shaun Walsh

All praise to Wheelspin models. I ordered a couple of spare props and a prop drive shaft for my Night Vapor at 4:30 PM on Friday, immediate acknowledgement of order, 5:30 PM an email saying order dispatched and parcel received at 1:30 PM Saturday.

It doesn't quote the figures as fires per 100,000 vehicles or fires per 100,000 miles driven (I chose 100,000 as an example, any number will do). The figures quoted are therefore ambiguous at best and no meaningful comparison can be made. The problem isn't just the number of vehicles catching fire, its the difficulty in extinguishing the fire when it does happen. Firefighters have years of experience of tackling petrol fires(and the equipment to do so) but very little experience in coping with lithium battery fires.

The daughter of a friend of my wife purchased an electric Ford a couple of weeks ago. A few days after she bought it her next door neighbour phoned her to say "the bonnet of your car is smoking" as she left the house there was a loud bang and the bonnet flew up followed by the car bursting into flames. It took the fire brigade 3 hours to extinguish the fire.

Running the numbers through propCalc shows very little difference between fixed and folding blade props so a 12x6 folding Graupner or Aeronaut prop would be a good place to start.

Was the point where the exhaust duct bifurcated referred to as "the flies".

A look that only J.R.Hartley could love.

The Bigfoot looks a reasonable model to learn on but, as JD8 said, join a club and get advice and assistance.

Completely agree, the point was that context is important. I was commenting on the Ofcom publication.

Gosh chaps, if I read that correctly I can never tell anyone that I "grabbed my tranny" or "had to drop the flaps for a close approach"!

Assuming a 2s battery, given the weight something like this should be perfectly adequate. https://www.4-max.co.uk/ppom-2321.htm

Regarding the lipo, is it 2s?

Perhaps it would be useful if the moderators could post an exhaustive list of unacceptable words............ Oh, hold on 😉

Alternatively a small direct drive motor should do the job, what is the weight of the model and what size prop do you want to use?

Hacker a10 with 4.4:1 gearbox perhaps? Available in 3 different Kv ratings to suite the battery/prop combination required. Just make sure that cooling is adequate as, over time, excessive heat breaks down the adhesive holding the pinion onto the motor shaft and you lose drive. Easy enough to fix, the gearbox unscrews easily and you just have to reattach the pinion with permanent loctite and reassemble.

The Atrizan recommends 1800 to 2200 mAh and the Easter Eagle power system on 4-Max uses a 1000mAh 3s. the 2200 would probably bo OK for the Pushy Cat too.

Any particular model in mind? Space and CoG also need to be considered.

Many years ago a manager I worked with would often feel ill on a Thursday, phone in sick on Friday and return, miraculously cured, on the following Tuesday. We referred to his mystery illness as "Deja 'Flu".

You will need either a dongle or a wired USB interface regardless of the transmitter you choose.

Refit the 4-Max motor with a few degrees of downthrust and try again, repeat until happy. You can always limit the power by throttling down or reducing the throttle range in settings. I have one model which climbs on full throttle and it wasn't possible to increase the downthrust so I mixed in some down elevator to the throttle which keeps it level as you wind the power up. Mix can be turned on and off as required.

So more like Dysentery than Dynasty?

In that case I guess he's not under any pressure!

Lidl sell a digital hot air gun, fully adjustable temperature and fan speed, it's very good.

Hobbyking's latest 32 bit Aerostar and the equivalent Beatles ESC are my preferred choice.

If you use the stabilised versions make sure that the BEC can supply enough current. I had a few brown outs using an ESC with a low spec bec and digital servos.