Dad_flyer

More curves to borrow might be from the Commodore. It curves everywhere. 72", but free flight.

I only have voltage telemetry, not mAh, on my receivers. I set to about 3.3V or 3.5V initially and then adjust to different models - if I find I am landing with the batteries nearly full. These are non-aerobatic flights, so the throttle is pretty constant most of the time. Doing low passes or repeated landing practice the alarm goes early as you pull back up, but then you know that is a pre-warning not the real one.

I have built the Simple Storch from the FT kit and the Spitfire (basic, not the master series one) and Legacy from Hobbycraft Westfoam board. They build quickly and fly well. I always take ages on the control fittings, but that is just my indescicion. The FT foam is lighter than anything else available in the UK, so you need to bear that in mind if using other foam. FT foam is pretty cheap, but requires postage. I can just nip over to Hobbycraft (not in lockdown obviously) for a few sheets when I need them. The 4-sheet price is reasonable. Even 'heavier' foam gives a pretty light model by normal standards. The Spit is great fun, my abilities would never be enough for a proper scale one.

There was a big thread on something like this last year. I think I found it on Google, but the link come to a blank on the site. Maybe someone else can find it. I have never had a model with an IC engine, but the ingenious solutions to bearing removal were a good read.

In general never believe anything from Wikipedia. "stigmatised as a Cockneyism until well into the 19th century" Edited By Dad_flyer on 19/01/2021 20:55:40

Certainly it can make sense to prop down a bigger motor. It is probably only really necessary if you are using so little power that the stick travel is too small to be comfortable. For example, I have a 50-odd inch trainer, 3 1/2+ lbs. Initially I ran it on a small motor, 3s and 300W. Flew fine, but not much in reserve, everything was at 3/4 throttle or more and felt on the edge. Now I have a bigger motor, 4s and max 550W. I expect I still actually _use_ well under 300W most of the time, but it is much nicer to fly around with the stick near the middle. There is also plenty of go for many practice landings in a flight.

I get mine from Grandad_nonflyer's roll for roof repairs. When I needed some and was not going to see him I decided the best availability/cost/weight was a bag of M6 nuts from Toolstation. About £1 and about 200g in a bag I think.

Posted by John Cooper 1 on 12/01/2021 10:56:01: What would people suggest for a total novice - never flown - never built Oh & 77. I am BORRED!!!! You have also said reasonably cheap and you do not intend to fly particularly. I would suggest something designed for rubber power. The Vintage Model Company kits are really well designed and build well. As others have said, there is a balsa shortage so the range is limited at present, but they do have stock. If you are not flying you only need to apply and shrink the tissue covering, so no problems with dope etc. These models are usually 20" or so, which are easier to find room for after. For flying I would not recommend a Spitfire/Hurricane/SE5a, but just to build there is plenty of fun to be had and extra details to add.

Diffraction puts a minimum possible size on a laser beam. For a red laser beam to stay about the same size for about 2m it needs to be 1mm diameter. Builders lasers are set to larger diameter to work for longer distances. Eyes are remarkably good and consistent at judging the centre of something, so a 1mm wide line can give better than 0.1mm alignment. A telescope-type theodolite can see small features much better because it has a large lens. But then it needs to be re-focused for different distances.

This thread on a electrified vintage (Modified Ben Buckle Double Diamond). Needed a lot of lead to balance a heavy tail. I have that model now and it carries the weight (about 9 1/2 lbs all up) very well. Particularly lovely to land. The battery is behind the motor. Peter Miller's option of battery below the motor brings that weight forward, and many of these models have very deep chins to allow that.

That's a cracker.

That it lovely DD.

The month is passing so quickly.

I'm in

I have one built with the Hobbycraft board (Westfoam). It is a fair bit heavier than the Flitetest board but still files well if you get the CG properly forward. This will need nose weight as there is quit a bit of area at the back. I also did a heavy acrylic paint job which did not help - it flew better before that. However it is still a lot of fun, even at my basic flying level. The foam core itself is more rigid than the Flitetest foam, so you may be able to shed weight without losing too much stiffness if you remove the paper from the inside. It does not peel off well, you need water or steam.

Just what my next build needs!

Hoping to be lucky this time.

I need to prevent the magic smoke!

18th time lucky?

Please.

A post to enter.

Glad Peter M got yesterday's. I would very much like this one.

Is this the right one? In stock at 4-Max.