David Hazell 1

God you're so bloody brave! I salute you sir. I would be too scared I'd make a destructive change that would ruin any chance of her being airworthy again!

I try to remember to save the tops from milk cartons to use for mixing epoxy. Then again, any old bit of plastic or card works just as well

Not forgetting what you need to stick stuff together with: 10ml syringes with blunt needle for more precisely applying glue: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Syringes-Blunt-Needle-Mixing-Syringe/dp/B01N2ZQ44R?th=1 micro tip capillary tubes to stick on the end of your superphatic glue bottle: https://www.amazon.co.uk/zhuochuan-Applicator-Micro-Tips-Dispensing-Dispensers/dp/B08K2G3TS2/ (other outlets are available) Thin CA, medium CA. Superphatic (love this stuff). PVA. Aliphatic resin...

Fingers crossed for your next go Allan.

Did you have a maiden flight yet?

I'm just building mine and oh my gosh what an incredible job you've done there. How did you get that amazing finish? I mean it might be a bit shinier than a battle worn A10, but it looks outstanding!

Probably for me as much as anyone in future, the hyperflight page has some more details on how to use this solution. Looks brilliant I have to say! https://www.hyperflight.co.uk/products.asp?code=SRIDSM-MKS6110&name=integrated-drive-system-mono-for-mks-hv6110

Beautiful workmanship, whichever glue you're using!!

That't the third different version of the manual I've seen!!! If I add all three together I almost get the full picture. Mine doesn't have those X mounted oleos though, mine are on a z shaped torque bar. I think mine is probably one of the much older versions of the artf.

I picked up a BL chipmunk with a 40cc MVS engine in it a couple of years ago in a moment of madness. I'd just gotten back into the hobby and I thought it might be a good deal. 2 years later and I've still never fettled it into flying condition. I have a couple of questions if anyone in the know could help I'd be grateful. So this one I bought has the wings secured by way of the previous owner screwing from the top of the wing into the end of the wing joiner tube. God knows why! So there are no wing joiny bolts/nuts for the tabs from the wing to the fuse. Can anyone advise or show me a picture of these bolts? Also, at the leading and trailing edge of the wing root, there should be a stud or similar to help locate the wing into the fuse - again these seem to be missing - I thought they were M6 threaded but an M6 bolt slips in so they're not that. Does anyone know what the thread size is? I'm sure I will have many more questions... Hopefully someone can help out. I can take some pictures to show what I'm on about if it helps. Thanks! Dave

The latter... With receivers that can't do failsafe from the Tx, you turn on Tx, turn on the already bound Rx, hit bind button within 10 seconds. The reason for the 10 seconds is that it prevents failsafe being accidentally set by an inadvertant press of the bind button. Once done, it's there persistently. I did this only yesterday on an R84 and it's definitely necessary to do it within around the 10 seconds of powering up the rx.

Well if you already have a transmitter, it might be able to be used as a controller - depends on what you have. If not you could pick up a transmitter that suits you, but also can be used to control a simulator. Otherwise, I bought one of these from Amazon: (well this is simlar, but it's a few quid more. I paid £32 actually for my controller.) https://www.amazon.co.uk/unknows-Simulator-JTL-0904A-Fixed-wing-Helicopter/dp/B09FSRHSX8/ref=sr_1_135?keywords=usb+flight+simulator&qid=1672864956&s=kids&sprefix=usb+flight+si%2Ctoys%2C64&sr=1-135

My advice would be get a simulator on your home computer. Smashed up pixels are way less mentally draining. I spent about 8 hours just figuring out how to land a high wing trainer 8 of 10 times in differing wind conditions. And also getting used to orientation. My comp is a Mac and I used Aerofly RC 7 which cost about $30 and a £20 USB controller off amazon. It made a massive difference to my ability to fly. Not 100% like the real thing, but seriously close enough.

I saw something similar, wasn't sure if that was BOPP though which doesn't shrink.

I too have been curious to try the matt, having not had massive success with getting paint to stick to the gloss. I didn't degrease - great tip! In terms of hitting the sweet spot, I reckon these two show best value for money: = £63.24 delivered. = £32.82 delivered. Question is, is the ultra matt with more width worth the extra thirty quid? Decisions, decisions...

I did use airbrush, and primer first (also airbrushed). The finish is good, just not stuck down enough to resist being scratched off by even a small ding.

Ooh, though I thought I'd weigh mine - and it seems to be about 10.25gsm for the 30micron stuff. Soooo light!

What's the verdict on the ultra matt vs matt vs gloss? I have the gloss and I have found acrylic doesn't bond so brilliantly to that - keyed it with 600 wetndry dry too.

I still like eBay for selling stuff. I wait until they offer 70-80% off variable selling fees which tends to be every few weeks. That way, if you sell something for say £200 you're only going to pay say £4.50 in fees. And you get that massive audience. And you can take advantage of their global shipping program. Also, the PayPal thing isn't a thing any more. PayPal are no longer involved in selling on eBay. I always use their search tool having ticked "Sold listings" - that way I can see what the comparative competition are selling for. I always list buy it now to avoid any nasty surprises with an uncompetitive auction.

Oh Jon, I'm so sorry. There's clearly much love and support here for those who have lost loved ones. Deepest condolences.

4 cylinder boxer!

Thanks Jon! I've closed the deal, just waiting to find out when he's going to send it!

I realise this is a very old post, but @Jon - Laser Engines do you have a link to a decent run in procedure for an ASP32 for example? I'm eyeing up a decentish offer of a new one from facebook marketplace (£35 posted) and curious what the master suggests?

So you stick it between the U/C itself and the mounting plate? Did you use 6mm longer self tappers to compensate?

I don't like that you can't get the plans from the electronic version.