Eric Robson

Progressing well Martian .it is good to see that someone else works in a similar environment to me.

Hi Gordon, when I put the flaps down I did not have to put any roll trim in, it was a little fast at the time when the flaps were deployed as on our field when the wind was blowing from the east you have to come in high over the electric line for the farm supply then drop quite quickly on to the strip. I still fly by the seat of my pants as they say so I tend not to use the facilities on the modern TX apart from rates and timer, The batteries I use are 4c 4000 and the motor is a Racestar48/50 800kv which I get 5mins flight with. it is over propped with the 4 blade FMS set up, the lower kv motors should do better times. I am going to try a 2 blade prop next time out and see if that improves duration. It flys to fast for scale with this set up and even on half throttle it is fast it is 5.5 lb without the battery which weighs 15.5 oz . looking forward to seeing yours and the other builds . Eric.

After the first flight the retracts pulled out on landing , I have since refitted them with longer screws that go right through the main plate. Today I had no trouble landing full flaps and gentle touch downs all down hill. Only problem I run out of batteries .

Flight No.6 with the Warbirds Replicas Mustang, a very stable flyer and lovely 3 point landings on full flaps. The top hatch flew off first flight as there was no outlet for the air I now have an outlet but put a rubber band on just in case. Just the Warbirds Ju88 to Maiden now.

That's not bad Peter, modellers are paying about £500 for a chunk of moulded foam.?

I find on sheet elevators and rudders, if you put it on the edge of the board and sand only one side to a taper then mark the leading edge down the centre and chamfer one side to the centre you finish up with a symmetrical flying surface .

Hi Ron, the JU88 cowls are 116mm diam. the smallest Laser available is 98 mm from centre to top so that is 40 mm sticking out, no cooling problems there but vastly overpowered.

As long as it is not a doodlebug. (flying bomb)

Jonathan, this may help the P51 plan shows the shape at the wing root, that is the shape to follow along the wing it just gets smaller, follow the flow of the wing it should be a continuation of the sheet covering. As you see in the picture there is a steeper slope down from the top, just keep looking along the wing as you sand it down to make sure it is straight and when you get to the tip follow the flow sand it with the aileron in neutral the tip should match the aileron at the trailing edge. The plan is for a Hawker Tempest but the principle is the same it will be useful when you build your Warbirds Spitfire.

There are a few factors to consider, the plane must always balance on the CofG with the tank empty. Providing it is forward of the C of G Unlike electric where the balance stays the same, as the battery weight is constant. If the engine has enough power the extra fuel will not be a problem, the plane will lighten as the fuel is used so when it is down to the 6oz level it will be as spec. Another thing to consider is the tank position if it is too high the engine will flood. It depends on the type of tank being used. The next thing is how long do you want it to stay in the air? a lot of members of my club fly electric and are happy wit 5/6 mins. flight I find on a fuel plane 10 -15 mins is enough and most models with the engine tuned correctly will give this on the designed tank unless it is flown flat out for the whole of the flight. Eric r.

Hi Jonathan , I use a David plane followed by a sanding block going from course to fine and the Mk 1 eyeball.

Richard did suggest the original screws could be used if two CSK screws were fitted between the mounting screw holes prior to fitting the retracts or if the packers are not yet fitted then under those. They would have to allow the retract or distance pieces to sit flat on the seating, the the supplied screws would then be ok to fasten the retracts down.

May be we should only use decking screws on carrier based aircraft. Hope that was not the very last landing Graham.

Hi Paul, Richard suggested I do the same as you to ley the air out. Regarding the C of G mine is the 51D so it will have less weight behind the C of G than the B, I sheeted mine so it may be lighter than your planking

I think it will be ready a long time before the next good flying weather appears Jonathan.

I used Fosters cans to sheet the top of the fuselage from the rear of the cockpit forward. I like a daily can of Fosters so the aluminium comes free. The gun troughs are aluminium foil from baking containers. The cowl is not aluminium.

Lam film is the thing to save you from bankruptcy.??

Hi Paul, mine balanced 10mm forward of the position shown on the plan. Sorry if you were deprived of a plan 90mm from the centre leading edge of the wing , any further back and I would have had to put some weight in the tail. Once trimmed it flew on rails very happy with it. I see on yours you had the magnets for the cowl in a different position, the cowl is very tight so if it is not pressure I may use velcro as I have done with the radiator intake and that stayed firmly in place even after sliding along the grass.

Hi Geoff, I did not use the flaps as I did not have a long enough flite to see what would happen when deployed. by the time I had it trimmed and flying straight and level I wanted to check the battery as I am pulling a lot more juice than a Predator motor, as it happens I was down to 24%. Another thing was the hatch flew off not long after take off so no inverted flight. I had a word with Richard and he suggested air pressure as the hatch was a tight fit , I will look into that after I have repaired the U/C mount. Jonathan I think the screws would be better 6mm longer than the ones supplied.

Hi all, mine had its maiden flight yesterday, a little hairy at first but once trimmed it was fine, slightly nose heavy but it took off ok and did not nose over. However on landing it floated on and as our club strip is inclined I had to land downhill due to the wind direction. to get it to touch down I gave a touch of down elevator it did not hit the ground too hard but it pulled the retracts out both sides. I thought at first it was not too bad but the main plate ply had split as the retaining screws only just went half way in to the main plate. I feel if the screws had been longer I would have been ok. I have made some ply horse shoes and glued them to the inside of the main plates and then I will get some longer screws to go right through. Hopefully this will cure the problem , I do not see it as an issue if you have a flat field or tarmac to land on as it floated down level without a hint of tip stall, Can't wait to fly it again but we must have upset the weather gods as the forecast for next week is not good. Eric.

I think it was a fixed nose, and when it first come on the market std. size servos were the norm. Mine flew great with an Enya 35 till a big aerobatic model coming out of a loop sliced it in two.

I had 5 flights with the Seafury this morning, flew very well but I think the motor is a little tired so I will fit a more powerful motor. there was quite a strong wind. After lunch I went back wit the Acrowot but every body was wrapping up as the wind gusts were stronger, Hope tomorrow is better.

Looking good Tim, I have never seen the fairings stitched on, I will admit to struggling with them to get a good top to bottom fit. I see all the pilots anxiously looking out the window for good weather now that lockdown has eased.

I think it would be better to use it as a sinker for the boat and the motor.

My eyes must be getting worse, Why do they put the Y next to the T? I did have a problem with wasps chewing the balsa away to make a nest in my Dennis Bryant Bulldog.