Eric Robson

After cutting the canopy to the frame lines I had a gap at the rear on both sides. I have used 2 small pieces of the 1/2" triangle strip to fill the gap. It may be possible to not cut up to the frame and trim after checking the fit then paint over. This will leave the former clear if you want to add cockpit detail.

I can envisage Les Dawson saying that

And CAA

The modification mentioned in the previous post is the spring loops moving as the plate swings back. I have lowered the saddle clamps to hopefully prevent this. The screws have been cut down but I managed to refit them , I drilled the holes 2mm. Don't lower the clamps any lower than shown as the wire lifts away from the upright over the hinge.

NFU was the one that told me they weren't taking new customers when asked my date of birth . I had my house insurance through them for the previous 5 years, no longer.I now have my house insurance at a 3rd of the price they quoted

Just wait till you get to my age, no claims no convictions, low annual mileage, last year it went from £950 to £1200 shopping around one insurance company wouldn't take one new customers that did come within there parameters,avoiding saying age discrimination. I think the storms we've had this year, watching cars being washed away and written off must have a lot to do with it

You left out wind power of which there is plenty up here for the glider and pss fraternity

Another point on the undercarriage, mine arrived assembled but nothing tightened up.the pins supplied have two flats on them in line, Another flat needs to be put on at 90 degrees as retract units are generally wing mounted and move sideways not back. The pin is held in by 2 grub screws, a 1.5mm Allen key is needed. I filed the flat on with a square needle file, do it so the top retaining screw locates on it and the oleo leg fits right up to the unit. MAKE SURE the burr is removed from the end where the oleo leg goes on, mine had quite a burrwhich would pick up on the aluminium leg. There will be another modification which Richard has alerted me on, I will put it on the thread when it is sorted. The crude arrows point to the filed flat and the end I had to remove the burr from.

89 and still going, main interest ww2 fighters I have a 104" Lancaster and a 72" Sunderland but find them boring. I do ic and electric, I prefer ic for the longer flight times ,electric is good for the cold days when 6 to 8 mins is enough due to finger freezing. I do like my Acrowot ic powered for some wild flying. I built it from the kit, much better than the Chinese version and more robust. I prefer to build my models from plans or kits, quite a few own designs ,when the mood takes me. I build traditional balsa models as well as foamboard and depron. Radio control models must have contributed to my reasonable health as I gave up smoking in my early 40s to buy my first Radio set .

The path to the runway is longer than our club runway

One strike filler, I was recommended this by Ron Gray and it is first class, very light doesn't sink ,sands well. Round about £4.50 for 450ml from Toolstation, keeps well

Declan, I do all I can to save weight at the back end. A servo is roughly the weight of a control snake and slightly lighter than a push rod unless you use carbon rods but the servo concentrates the weight at the back where as the snake or rod spreads the weight along its length.

The decision is up to the individual, the wings in the kit have a dihedral angle ready set, I think Ron's has this. To increase the dihedral could open a can of worms as the nacelles would then cant over and the undercarriage would splay out, not insurmountable problems but something that needs thought. As it is designed as a quick build model and not a competition scale model the idea is to have a great flying model, which looking at Ron's and others is totally convincing and durable, not something to be brought out once a year. How much detail you put on is your choice and following Richard's methods as shown on othe Warbirds Replicas builds, an amazing amount of detail can be added quickly and easily.

Almost ready to cover, I may go for a single battery in the nose, seems it would balance ok just have to experiment with batteries and props.

Sorry, it should read at least 12mm of foam removed from the wing.

With the way the mount plate pivots it is essential to remove at least 25mm of foam from the wing to allow the retract units to move up otherwise they will break. I plan to mount the flap servo inside the nacelles as I did on the Ju88.

Best wishes Matty, never give up.

After removing 6mm from the top I glued the rear parts in. At this point before the glue sets put the undercarriage in place and slide the front parts in do not glue. This will ensure the set up is square. After clamping the rear parts remove the undercarriage and front parts just incase any glue has seeped out permanently fixing the undercarriage. The top of the vertical mount also needs reducing to clear the hatch frame, as there is no stop the vertical mount will have to be secured to stop it pushing the hatch off in a heavy landing. Note the retract mount is offset, I have written outer on the wider side.

We must have posted at the same time Richard, I have started the undercarriage build on the hints and tips thread.

Simon, a program is on ch 171 about secret aircraft the Voight is featured

This is what I think may have to be removed, not sure if Richard done this to his.

The undercarriage parts arrived today along with the missing motor mount. The tags on the motor mount protrude through the bulkhead and must be cut down to make them flush otherwise the front undercarriage locating plates will not sit right. It looks to me that the locating plates will have to be cut short at the top to let the hatch sit in place, unless I am mistaken. Take care to correctly identify the 4 rear parts that fit over the leading edge of the wing

Beats the hell out of a Hobbies fretsaw.😃

Just some old croc🙂

Yes Tinkercad it might just Peter out, on the other hand he could be hooked