Eric Robson

Probably looked like part of a swastika when it was removed.

Partly bike related, In the 1950's I had a 1935 Morris 8. With my girl friend of the time we went up to Edinburgh for the day, a journey of 120 miles each way. After a good day we set off for home about 7 pm. After a few yards the engine cut out the SU electric fuel pump had stopped working. As was usual a thump with the fist got it working again it did not get far when it stopped again. I tried cleaning the points with her nail file, no good they needed replacing. I slackened the mounting bolts for the pump to the bulkhead and going down Edinburgh's cobbled streets it worked fine once on the main roads I drove along the gutters and after a bumpy ride managed to get home. Next day after replacing the points I suggested we go to Devon for the rest of the time we had left of our summer holidays. This was a round trip of over 800 miles which was great and trouble free with the car. On return I had the offer of an SS Jaguar 1.5 litre for £30 so I swopped the Morris for a Velocette 250 for going to work saving the Jag for weekends. Two days later the when the chap started the Morris up one conrod broke and made a right mess of the engine. Talk about luck.

Morning Jonathan, I am curious asto why you have the upper side panels and rhe offcut pinned down and taped together. You only need a strip off the offcut in the cockpit area.

Started work the beginning of 1951 as an apprentice mechanic for a main dealer spare parts were often unavailable ,we made gaskets with a small ballpien hammer but for the holes there was a selection of old balls from worn out races,place over the hole and a light tap,perfect hole

Hi Simon, were you referring to my FW190 or Lipo man's?

I fastened the canopy with 4 small screws with the intention of adding some detail later, it needs a pilot at least for those low passes but I thought I would have some flying time first as I don't want to add to much weight. The only pilot I have that is suitable is quite heavy.

Mine has 3600 batteries and is just on the c of g, don't worry about flying it, get the c of g right and add weight as needed, My first flight was from a hand launch from a helper, it flew straight away steady as a rock and only needed a little trim,

I did just build it and fly it, and in the air I can't see the cockpit, on the ground I see very little of the cockpit as the plane lives in the shed. However I applaud those who go the extra mile to add realism .

One of our club members has his esc on the outside of the fuselage side with the wires going through holes into the battery and motor compartments, it is held on with double sided tape. I've never had problems with hot batteries despite not providing a lot of cooling flow, my Ju88 only has a hole for the motor leads to come through. The main thing is to not over load the battery or esc.

I use the B&Q paint straight on to the brown paper, at the time of my flying with the FW190 the grass has always been damp and somewhat muddy. it has not affected the paint apart from not being easy to clean and would benefit from a coat of matt varnish. The canopy on mine is screwed on as I intend to fit a pilot, at the moment the c of g is slightly rearward and the pilot I have is not superlight, after 26 flights I am reluctant to alter anything as it flys so well, it's only on low passes that the absence of the pilot is noticeable

Flight No.26 today would have been 30 but everyone was leaving due to the cold. Dolly still going strong, its better than retracts with the strip as it is, downside is the muddy underside.

The only maidens I get these days are Maiden China 😃

Don't know how they managed to get a mask on in that space.

Tounge in cheek Brian, The FW190 was better at low levels and from a lot of flying pictures I've seen the pilot doesn't have an oxygen mask on.

Could a 190 get high enough for the pilot to need oxygen? 🤣🤣

I miss the pop ups, kept my fingers busy 😀😀

Great rebuild and flight ,concerned about the wobbly fin. I hope it doesn't end in Dire Straits.

I used 1 piece for the rear underside 2 pieces for each lower fuselage side 2 for the upper fuselage, 1 small piece for the fuselage top 1 piece for the cowl over the ply odd bits fo the wing fillets. Start at the rear underside, don't come up the side overlap the bottom with the side pieces. Always work up and forward that way overlaps are less conspicuous and any joins are not facing the slipstream, there should not be any on this model as it is straight forward with no complex curves.

When you say through two skins GG are you referring to the veneer skin? I pinned mine through the 1/4 " balsa aileron spar.

One thing you must avoid. KEEP THE CYANO AWAY FROM FOAM. DO NOT USE IT FOR THE AILERON HINGES ON THE WING. I use pva and cocktail sticks for the wing hinges. As the ailerons are balsa cyano is OK

That would be Greta Garboage

I have some spare as the top of my head grew through my hair along time ago.

Hi Don, The frame is two 570mm x 32 x12 lengths of pine , 2 100mm wheels and 1 50mm wheel. Just an old pair of undercarriage legs I has in the spares box, the pink is hair curlers with a soft wire centre to prevent the wing getting damaged by the undercarriage wire protruding.

Don't know what has happened to the North East weather 4 flying days this week, 9 flights today with the new Warbirds Replicas FW190 bringing it up to 20 flights so far. A great aeroplane Richard! Also flew my Spitfire.