David Davis 2

I'm with Stuart. I dislike installing the radio but I also dislike hinging the control surfaces. I have a DB Sport & Scale Auster which was given to me at least ten years ago, it only needs the canopy glazing to be fitted and the radio installing and it's ready for its maiden flight. I also have a Galaxy Models Mystic in the same condition which I bought as a quick build project four years ago! A club colleague has made an excellent job of spraying the Auster's cowling and Carbon Copy are sending me a white fibre glass undercarriage for the Mysic. When it arrives I'll have no excuses!

I asked the same question on "Glow Nation," on a well-known social media site. My post has been moved "lower in the feed" because it appears to incite violence! I promise you that I am not making this up! Big Brother is indeed watching you. "We moved one of your posts lower in Feed. David John DavisGlow Nation odnSeorspt7i6uhh10113ufh2gguig4m00c1a2iu671m5c646fgtg9t21c52 · Most of my four-stroke engines audibly lose a few revs when I remove the glow igniter from the glow plug on start up, otherwise they run perfectly. Does this mean that I have the low speed needle set too rich? After having used glow engines for over fifty years I really should know the answer to this question! What happened Our technology showed that this post looks like others that go against our Community Standards for Violence and incitement. We don't allow people on Facebook to share content that leads to a genuine risk of physical harm, or a direct threat to public safety"

Murray Grey cross Friesien?

Most of my four-stroke engines audibly lose a few revs when I remove the glow igniter from the glow plug on start up, otherwise they run perfectly. Does this mean that I have the low speed needle set too rich?

Good Morning EGB! Just Engines offer a range of silencers, either standard or "quiet," which will suit your engine. In order to be sure, just measure the distance between centres of the mounting holes, dimesion "c" on the drawing. They claim that their silencers with 35mm between the bolt holes will fit an OS engine which has 35.5 mm spacing. https://www.justengines.co.uk/product-category/exhaust-systems/two-stroke-exhausts/standard-mufflers/?v=11aedd0e4327 A range of special exhausts is available to order from Weston UK. I had one made for an SC 32 and it is very impressive though they are more expensive than a standard silencer. https://www.westonuk.co.uk/Genesis-Pipes/

A friend had one of the RCV CDs in a Puppeteer. It was quite reliable and flew the Puppeteer well enough but I've heard that these engines are not very powerful compared with poppet valve four-strokes and I can't remember what size it was. A Puppeteer would fly very well on an OS 48. I own three HP VT four-strokes which I really ought to sell. These use a disc valve for the intake and exhaust function. They certainly lack power compared with a poppet valve four-stroke.

I concur with all of the advice proffered so far. Nearly all of my models are fitted with four stroke engines and you won't go wrong with an OS or Saito engine but I've also had good service from engines produced by Thunder Tiger ASP, SC and Magnum. These manufacturers no longer make engines though I've had no problem finding spares for them. Then there's Laser of course...

I take it that the knurled knob controls the low speed fuel supply while the hockey stick needle with brass locknut is the main jet. Am I right?

Welcome to the forum Tony. Are you any relation to Ben Buckle?

Isn't AGC closing its doors too?

Traditionally the advice was that a four stroke should be 30%-50% larger than the recommended two stroke, so your Saito 49 should power adequately any model for which a 25-35 two stroke is recommended. Assuming that you do not want another trainer your Saito would certainly power a Barnstormer 63 maybe even the Barnstormer 72 from the DB Sport & Scale Plan Pack range or if you'd prefer a complete kit and something more sporty, the Galaxy Models Magician would be ideal. All of that said, I have seen a 40 four stroke power a Radio Queen, but then you'll already have a vintage model once you've built the Super 60!

The Ben Buckle Super 60 is a fine trainer and will suit the PAW. I've built two and bought another ready made. They are available as both three and four channel models., i.e, both with and without ailerons. They are fine trainers capable of handling a bit of a breeze. https://www.benbucklevintage.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1_4 They are easy to build but if you've never built a stick and tissue style model before you'd be better off having the help of an experienced aeromodeller alongside you at least in the initial stages. On my latest build I have used De Luxe Materials Super Phatic glue for the first time and I can recommend it unreservedly. Pictures of my old Super 60s below.

Both the OS 40 Surpass and the little 25 are good quality engines so you should get a reasonable price for them. The other engine, if it is an FP, will command a lower price. My advice would be to take the model over to the nearest club where an experienced aeromodeller could remove the cowling and identify the engine.

Lots of good advice here. Here's a bit more. If you are going to buy a used 40-46 two stroke, avoid MDSs and Leos.

There are several Irvine 40s and 46s available on eBay. Prices seem to range from £30-£50. The red ones are the newest but the older engines still run well. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p4432023.m570.l1311&_nkw=irvine+rc+engine&_sacat=0#item349b2437a6. OS engines may command slightly more money and the clones like ASP and SC slightly less.

Good idea.

PS. Weston UK also make diesel engines to special order but they are quite rare so finding one for sale second hand will be difficult. https://www.westonuk.co.uk/Ed/

I have been impressed by the qualities of De Luxe Products "Super Phatic" glue when building a new wing for my Baron. I am simultaneously building a Galaxy Models "Mystic" and have reached the stage where I am hinging the control surfaces. I am using large Kavan pinned hinges on this model which will be powered by a Laser 155. https://www.slecuk.com/accessories/hinges/kavan-heavy-duty-pin-hinge-10-per-pkt. In the past I have always used epoxy to glue hinges to the airframe after applying a little grease to the pivot. Do you think that Super Phatic would be suitable for the hinges in this installation?

For a vintage model I'd recommend a Junior 60 or Super 60 over a Super Scorpion because they are easier to build but if you fancy a challenge then go for the Super Scorpion. As well as Ben Buckle, SLEC now stock the Belair range of vintage Parts and Plan Sets in which the ribs, formers and other "difficult" parts are provided but you have to buy the balsa strip and sheet. https://www.belairdigital.co.uk/detail.asp?id=1342 I have flown all three and all would fly nicely on a 25 two stroke glow or a 25-40 four stroke. If you would prefer a diesel, PAW produce a wide range of diesel engines with a choice of plain bearings, single or twin ball bearings. PAW engines are also available with throttles and silencers which makes them more usable with r/c. Most genuine vintage engines do not have throttles and those that do, the ED Hunter for example, are very rare. A PAW 19 will fly any of the models mentioned above..

My advice would be to find an experienced modeller to show you how it's done.

If you go onto YouTube and search Mark Robinson Models, he will show you how to download plans from the internet and how to build a model aeroplane from the plans. This episode deals with downloading the plans: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WvdAkkQI5Zw. That said, I still think that you would be better off buying a kit or short-kit from a reputable manufacturer like Ben Buckle, DB Sport and Scale, Chris Foss or SLEC who now offer the Belair range of kits including the Belair Vitnage Kits: https://www.belairdigital.co.uk/itemsection.asp?id=50. Their own Fun Fly would make a good choice for a second or third model. A description is available here under SEC Kits: https://www.slecuk.com/aircraft-kits.

Have you discovered why you have blown so many ESCs yet ToTo?

Please don't overpower this model, it can lead to all sorts of problems for a beginner as I found out when helping a beginner with an electrified Radio Queen. https://forums.modelflying.co.uk/index.php?/topic/52162-french-radio-queens/&tab=comments#comment-947531 Now I am not an expert in electric flight like many of the other respondents but if you were to weigh the model and add the weight of the LiPo you'd have a good starting point, you may ignore the weight of the speed controller and motor at this stage. Let us say that the model and LiPo weigh 3lbs. You'd be looking for a motor capable of providing 150 watts because 50 watts per lb for a model like this will be sufficient. Given that a 3S LiPo provides 11.1 volts, you'll be looking at a motor which will draw about 13 amps. For those more used to metric measurements the starting point is 110 watts per kilo. In line with the advice you have received from many others, I suggest you go along to a club, introduce yourself and tell them of your situation. Someone will want to help you I'm sure.

That's pretty reasonable. I've just paid 220€ (£188) for the smaller version, new in box without servos.

I have owned a Spektrum DX9 for nine years. I accidentally dropped it onto our tarmac runway yesterday breaking the carrying handle and aerial cover. I've managed to glue the handle and cover back into place but the transmitter is starting to look a bit scruffy now so perhaps I ought to think in terms of replacing it. Most of my models are simple four channel sports jobs plus a few vintage models so I doubt that I'll ever use sixteen channels however, I was given an electric foamie B17 which has flaps, retracts and an functioning bomb bay so the extra channels will come in handy for that once I get round to assembling it. I'm a bit of a computer phobe but I've watched the programming of RadioMaster transmitters on YouTube and it doesn't seem all that daunting. However, I have no idea of the meaning of the technical language such as: Transmitter module: Option 1: Internal 4-in-1 multi-protocol module (CC2500 CYRF6936 A7105 NRF2401)ï¼' Option 2: Internal ELRS (SX1280). What does this all mean? Certainly the TX16s Mark II looks excellent value for money compared to Spektrum transmitters. Is there anything I should be aware of before buying this transmitter? Would a FrSky transmitter be a better option?