Rich Griff

Yes, mcoy also, until they broke... Moral, don't overwind...

Interestingly, folks on the Cox engine forum have mentioned soaking in warm/hot antifreeze ? Be ware if hot antifreeze fumes. Not sure what type of antifreeze as they are across the pond. Not tried that method myself as petrol ( and some elbow grease ) works for me. I also use warm/hot oil method to good effect on a bad model engine, and other stuck mechanical effect. What ever method you use just be very careful for/of your safety, your property ( shed/workshop ) safety and that of the engine/mechanical stuff. Yes, a good flicking technique essential, flicking via prop blade "flank' rather than sharp trailing edge. Don't overwind spring if it's still fitted. Enjoy.

Nice one Dave windy miller, a blue one ? Your kwaka will have gears so should burble along at 20 in first....or second.... If it won't then something is wrong....nice bike by the way. Tal y llyn pass up hill will be fun !

Hi pdb, So I don't get shouted at....please could you post reply in the slope soaring section... May I ask please, what made you get interested in slope soaring and why do you like it etc. etc. etc.... As to model damage, as long as the wings etc. don't fold, the only damage your model will get ( apart from collision which can happen, even "flying a bird " ) is a bad landing, but you can practise making many "dummy runs" before your final commitment to landing, in long grass/bracken/heather etc. hopefully 😀 I made the mistake once of assuming the model had landed, skidding along the grass, so I let go of the sticks, to perform an unintentional " touch and go " ! Sailed out into lift just scrapping over the fence and tried again, successfully.

If you intend cleaning the crank then the prop driver plate will need to come off. Remove the finned cylinder head then the cylinder ( if it free of the piston that is ) then the piston/rod off the big end journal noting which way round the rod is..... Then the prop driver plate can be removed. It's alloy so will expand more quickly than the crank. Threaded spigot, for alternative tank, or use the "squarish " plastic tank. Alternatively a "remote tin tank ". You have some dc advertising of the era ?

Think good quality " geometry/engineering drawing set" and thickish brown envelope for the new gaskets... No real need to remove the prop driver plate ( taper fit ) as no crank case " oil way"...... Enjoy this little gem of an engine. Ps is your back plate central spigot hole threaded by chance ? 😀

What ever "solvent' you use in the jam jar, don't forget to put the lid on.

I know someone who makes 80 percent alcohol which works really well but is dangerous stuff and gives me a splitting headache. Shifts burnt on carbon and everything but absorb moisture like mad and evaporates quickly.....as said, dangerous stuff... My d1000 is how much a litre these days ? Modern petrol had "additives" these days...easily available and is a fire risk, but what of glow and model diesel fuels ? This hobby is full of risk as we know......so act accordingly. Take care out there...

Sceptre flight.com

Specterflight...

DC merlin, nice little engine... Find jam jar so whole engine minus prop can be submerged in ordinary car petrol and allow to soak for 2 days or so. You realise the FIRE risk ? With lid on the jar can be shaken, see castor "gum' floating about and resting on jar bottom. The back plate is held on by the two thru crank case bolts/nuts. With those bolts out you can turn the back plate to free it but gasket will be mangled. With back plate off you can use screw the cylinder head and remove the cylinder leaving the piston and rod in place The prop driver plate is a taper fit on crank. No "oil way" in crank case nose to clean. If a soak in petrol fails, try old small sauce pan ( or a new cheapo small sauce pan ) and car engine old. Submerge engine in oil and heat gently on a camping stove OUTSIDE on a gaurantee dry day. Once you see the nearest hint of the oil smoking, turn off the heat ! Hot oil is a very great FIRE and SKIN BURN risk, a very great risk !!! So no pets, kids ( or dumbasses ) anywhere near the hot oil !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Spectre.com iirc will have a report etc. on this little gem of an engine. Take note about rod/piston/cylinder alignment..... Try soaking in petrol to see if it will "free off and turn" but be gentle...

Be very careful particularly with a diesel, anti stall so can surge forward all by them selves.....in too high a gear at low revs, you have been warned.

Hi toto, A local slope soaring site ? How far away and have you visited it ? You will be surprised/amazed at what you see, it will be literally a breath of fresh air. Your stick time will treble and I am sure your skill set will "soar"..... Research the soaring achievement scheme, just as much a challenge as powered flight, and your landing skills ( the only difficult bit really ) will increase massively, dead stick too.

Nice to hear some success toto, how long was engine run/flight time may I ask and how much fuel left in tank ? Will look at your radio report with interest....hope it highlights something conclusive...

A "stop oil" protest/attack ? Mind you it is Saturday morning after a Friday night...

Work hardening takes place as a result.

Is there a problem with vehicle insurance today ? Several friends are saying their vehicles are showing as uninsured on the data base the cops use, but are actually insured, today ? A local problem or nationally ?

Rolled

Hi Simon cragg, So sorry to hear of your radio failure and resulting crash. It's a worry to find out it's a futaba set and it's disconnected aerial lead ! May I ask please what futaba tx is it, and, is the connection a "push on spade female" type please ? Thanks in advance.....

Steep learning curve but all good experience for your next model after you use this one to get your a certificate, then fly the socks off it learning for your b test. What you are learning you will not forget.

Hi toto, Getting closer..... You know what happens when adjusting the hi speed needle, taper into a hole basically. Watch what happens when the throttle barrel/drum arm is moved..... What is Gunnar happen when you turn that recessed centre screw..... I can only see two pipes involved with your tank plumbing.....

Yeah, just because the prop is merryly chopping you skin and bones does not mean the engine is going to stop. Similar with an electric motor and prop.

Just checked on the force 21 pull start marine engine, a transverse "pull" to open throttle slide rather than the rotate to open throttle barrel type on aero engines usually. No rachet or clicks felt on hi and low speed needles either, but the hi speed needle is canted backwards and looks very similar to your engine toto. Exploded views not quite clear enough, but mine is a different "animal" to your aero engine. Perhaps GG can help further as he has a 40 something aero force engine.

Hi toto, When filling the tank ( hand pump for me ) there is a possibility of flooding the engine, which is why the suggestion of checking for that is a good one. Fuel is visible ( air bubbles really ) in the fuel line. If you have flooding problems whilst filling, a simple clothes peg method can be used to "crush" the pipe. Before using the starter you can drop to drips if oil between prop driver, thrust washer and engine crankcase nose, to lub. Glow clip off, place finger over carb air intake, rotate prop once or twice, to make sure fuel is in carb, that is if air bubble is seen in fuel line at the carb. Your glow clip the "clothes peg " type ? Rotate prop backwards untill compression is felt. On starter operation, engine will rotate about 180 degrees or so with little load exerted on starter motor system, giving the engine some momentum to overcome compression, and it bursts into life. Also stops skidding/wear between rubber ( silicon rubber ) insert in starter "drive cup" and your nice shinny red prop spinner. Engine should burst into life more or less immediately and settle into a slightly fast idle set by throttle stick on tx. If it doesn't, something is not quite right..... Then disconnect glow clip..... Idle speed, the slowest it will idle reliably plus a bit. The model should not creep forward on grass but may on deaf smooth tarmac, set it so it does not creep forward at idle. On engine kill, it should do so more or less immediately, either fast digital trim or kill switch function. Maybe some paint on prop tips to show them when engine is running. Do your preps routine and engine will start with the nearest touch of the electric starter. If your having to repeat application of the starter to get the engine running, something is wrong. Electric panels in your flight box ( trolley for me ) have a controllable glow power knob and meter to indicate glow plug "continuity", ie, and indication the glow plug is working.....but it still may not be working properly...... Post a picture of the glow plug element, to tick that box off the possibilities list. Is there a whitish crystal like deposit in the coil element ? Think about soldering an extension to the hi speed needle for finger and thumb turning, or a screw driver and tube to prevent slippage when engine is running and you need to adjust the hi speed needle.....and extension being the safest I feel......since the hi speed needle is canted backwards..... During the day I will check on my force marine engine what's involved with the hi speed needle rachet/clicks mechanism. At some point I will add an extension to make life a little easier for me at the lake. Have a great day...

A spotlessly clean tank with spotlessly clean filter clunk and plumbing to a..........intermittently blocked carb....... Leave throttle barrel screw and slow speed screw as is. Gently screw in hi speed needle until it lightly "bottoms" counting the number of turns and fraction there of. Write that info down. ( Lightly bottoms......you are screwing in a finely tapered needle into a hole basically, so be gentle, no real force needed at all other than that needed to turn the screw which has fuel seals, probably o rings, check engine parts exploded view that came with the engine, is a filter involved in the carb ? ). Unscrew needle and remove. full throttle, very quick blast with fuel in a syringe, down the hole the needle fits in,, also down the fuel pipe stub, refit needle and lightly bottom. Unscrew by the turns and fraction thereof to achieve previous setting. GG, does your force engine have a "rachet" or "clicks" involved with the hi speed needle please ????? Toto, wait for gg's feedback on rachet/clicks.....