Rich Griff

Aquiouse means water ? right ?

I think I am gunna have to read this thread from the first posting. A very interesting thread. I may be able to afford a new laser engine at some point, a petrol powered one me thinks. Are you based in the same area of the country that the good Dr. Lanchester was ? He did a lot of work on crankshaft balance, design vibration damper etc.. Your a very lucky fellow John working in a field you enjoy. Respect.

The mind boggles....

Thanks Matt, thanks John.

Thanks John. The bat safe website doesn't seem to work properly so I emailed asking for details and if there is a UK dealer. All my old ammo boxes are full of fuel etc but I can rearrange stuff to free one up. Off to town tomorrow for some plaster board and research a plastic waterproof lockable garden storage chest. Getting the bmfa lipo saefty sheets printed A4, much easier to read than this tiny phone screen. The bat safe vidio, the first one, was that a mobile phone on the desk ?, terrifying !!!

Agreed. I have not witnessed a lipo fire but have seen a couple of videos... It's what else they set fire to thats the worry, and the appropriate first extinguisher used for that, NOT WATER.... I am thinking hard about outside storage but need to take waterproofing and ambiant temperature into account. I don't want the shed or house burning down, or sleepless nights worrying about lipo's. I am only going into electric propulsion in a very limited way me thinks. Any comments on the fire safe text about lithium batteries, anyone ?

The plot thickens... Just had a very quick reply from the above question, a suitable fire extinguisher for a lipo fire, a lithium polymer rechargable battery fire on open ground bare earth. The reply was they do not recommend what type of extinguisher ( for any type of fire ? ) to use, it's all down to a risk assessment ? I will reread the text they have on Thier site for lithium ion batteries, just in case I read it wrong. Anyone else read that text ? Is a lithium ion battery the same as a lipo, a lithium polymer rechargeable battery ? 4max say do not use water on a lipo fire... An extinguisher would be a good idea, but the right type being important I would think. My lipo storage methods will need reaccessing and acting on. Feedback......anyone ?

Interesting.... Anyway when I looked at the lipo fire extinguisher on the fire safe site, I emailed them for advise on an extinguisher for a lipo fire. The reply I just got was extremely non committal and suggested nothing, for a lipo fire, other than a risk assessment. I replied rewording the question, lipo, lithium polymer rechargable battery fire on open ground bare earth. Perhaps they will suggest/recommend an extinguisher ...

As a comparison, Enya parts posted in Japan Friday morning, arrived with me just before mid day today via royal mail thru the letter box. Tracked all the way but no ETA given. No knock on the door, just normal post and that's fine. Thanks Ken, Japan airlines, Heathrow distribution centre and royal mail !

Ok, lipo, liion, life and any other li battery, lithium, are new to me. I knew I read it somewhere, yes 4nax safety sheets that come with the lipo batteries I got, in red.... Do and don't when using lithium polymers cells ( lipo )... Never use Water to try and extinguish a lipo fire, it acts like petrol etc. etc. etc.... Read the spec sheets for the lithex extinguisher please... Any feedback......at all ?

Lithium battery fire extinguisher ?? Please elaborate please...

Yes, some pva's, an everbuild resin type, biege in colour rather than white, in a yellow bottle, has a relatively short shelf life. Not tried that on balsa yet, clean off with water so I have not had to sand it on stuff I have glued with it. Seems strong and waterproof as stuff I have used it on is outside, it rains a lot here.

Thanks early bird, anyone used the veneer glue mentioned, sticking veneer to white foam or repairing veneer to white foam. I understand copydex was used originally, but again that was used years ago. I don't use gorilla glue any more, the foaming one, because of the label, but will read the gorilla PVA and/or aliphatic label when in town. I wear gloves, diesel stinks, I hate the smell but like the economy 60mpg +.....my god it's expensive now, be that's an other thread. Stick to glue, white glue, excuse the pun .

Titebond it is then. Where can I get some please ? Mail order as any model shop is a good 60 miles away, Denbigh I think is the closest to caernarfon area ? The works brushes, yes I spotted them last time I was in there.

If we are expecting a delivery from whoever, we put a sign in the window saying please use the door knocker. Not many delivery people can read apparently... RM good but letters take a long time to come. Parcelforce and other delivery firms recently have been good, as is the gas man... SSE on the other hand, pathetic, a BBC watch dog moment coming I think !

That's a nice big mat, can I ask where you got it please ? I fancy the vmc spit, anyone done one yet, start a new thread for that as this thread is blow by blow account and interesting. I fancy the cub also...

Gorilla glue, not used their PVA, if they make it. I have used the glue that foams up, but that's cancerous I believe, I think it said it was on the pack.

Don't known titebond, resin w dries clear from memory but sands a bit rubbery, mind you that was years ago. Cannot remember the name of the white PVA that dried clear and was easily sandable as it dried hard ? I would like a PVA that dries clear and easily sandable ?

There is a branch of "The Works" shop in Caernarfon who stock quite a bit of craft type stuff. They do a clear drying PVA. Has anyone used this and does it dry hard and sandable, or dry "rubbery", sandable but with rubbery gobs coming off, please ? They do a white PVA also, does that dry clear and hard and sandable please ? Thanks.

As a matter of interest, are you based near caernarfon ?

I will admit that the shadow needed and engine stand off plate between the engine mount and fire wall, about 1/2 inch thick wood, and one layer of lead sheet the same size as the stand off, about 1/4 inch larger than the engine mounting. I could have lightened the tail a bit as it's all sheet, tail fin, rudder, tail plane and elevators. Those layers of lead, nice to see nyloc nuts, but flattened sheets and some penny washers would be my "addition ". Build light but strong.

Blimey, and additional pound of weight. I would not add anything to the crankshaft. Maybe a bracket via engine mount bolts ( the engine is radial mount ? ) Or similar going forward to mount the needed weight to balance c of g. Weight loss in tail would be better but I don't know your "over weight" model ?

Always fails after about half hour ? You should be able to suss out some of the wires, earth, power, output signal after signal conditioning on that board, a pulse train....a scope would be handy, dmm should be safe to use....just be really carefull you only touch one terminal/track at a time ! Joining two terminals accidentally could mean " frying tonight ".... Maplins is dead, there are other suppliers, but catalogues these days are online...

That looks quite good too, wide hand holes....

What do free flighted "set/trim" there's to when the engine cuts ? With electric propulsion, you could "restart" the motor ? Not with IC, so a free flight trim, gentle circling....and glide down. Ailerons same but very very small trim else it would spiral in probably, 2 servo aileron, trim as flaps possibly ? No " helpfull" dihedral... An on board alarm sounds good, with its own dedicated battery ?