Richieg66

I've got lots of GNB batteries and have found them very resilient in high power applications like EDFs. I had a few low voltage cut offs and rge batteries are showing no sign of damage or puffing. I buy mine from here: https://www.hobbyrc.co.uk/batteries

I've got a selection of ISDT chargers, 3* Q6, 2*Q8 and a P10. They have all been very reliable and I would recommend them. The P10 is probably the best value as it's a dual charger but it wont storage charge or discharge but I've got an ISDT discharger which will discharge a lipo super fast.

Hi Nath The Flysky FS-i6X 10CH 2.4GHz AFHDS RC Transmitter with FS-iA6B Receiver is available for about £56 from amazon - that's a great set for the money. However, as a fellow returner to the hobby it's probably a better idea either to join a local club and get some training or buy a sub 250g park flyer like a Volantrex Ranger 600 which comes ready to fly with radio gear and a battery and is far easier and more forgiving to fly.

Replaced my Riot motor with one from 4-max. Details here: https://www.4-max.co.uk/po-3541-1070.html

I've not owned either foam-e but have a much abused foam Riot and an ARTF Wot4. Both are excellent winter hacks IMO. A club mate has a wot4 foam-e and I don't think it matches the riot quality wise

I have the ARTF Wot 4 electric conversion pack fitted to my Wot 4. I started with 4s 3600 packs and then then moved to 4s 4000 packs. The 4000 packs are quite snug though. Probably best to check the width of the batteries you are going to buy. If you already have 3300 lipos I reckon they would be fine for 5 to 6 minute flights unless you are hoping around on full throttle. http://www.ripmax.com/Item.aspx?ItemID=A-CF002/ELP

After breaking the undercarriage plate on my Ruckus I replaced it with birch ply and larger plastic bolts. Now the plastic bolts will snap and the undercarriage breakaway rather than ripping taking out the ply plate. I also have a couple of BMFA circular stickers covering up the ripped covering where the spats punched through the first time I broke the undercarriage!

Another Wot4 recommendation . I moved on from a Riot to an ARTF Wot4 and it's definitely a step up. It's heavier and more slippery and less forgiving than a foam Riot. I've also flown a couple of acrowots and prefer the Wot4 as an every day acrobatic hack.

I'm in the process of converting an early ARTF Acrowot to electric. Unfortunately the conversion pack seems to be unavailable... Done suppose anyone has dimensions/tracings of the bits that make up the battery tray?

Graham my goto receiver is the Frsky RX6R. 6 channels and approx £25. Mine are a mixture of V1 and V2 firmware with the intention of moving eventually to the UNI firmware.

Hi @tiny-jamesI returned to flying rc planes after a long break and have a foam Riot, Balsa Wot4, Balsa Ruckus etc. For your next model I would definitely go with a Riot. Its far cheaper than a wood wot4 and a lot more forgiving. 3s 2200 batteries are cheaper as well (don't bother with 4s). The Riot is quite aerobatic, inverted flight, snap rolls, bunts, blenders etc etc and as the investment is less you are probably going to push it more and learn more. I've crashed mine a few times and it's pretty easy to glue back together. Similar crashes would have totalled a balsa wot4...

Pro built Ruckus? "Max Thrust Pro-Built Balsa Ruckus Kit Uncovered - IC or Elec" https://www.centuryuk.com/RC-Planes/All-Planes/Balsa-Pro-Build-Series/20204-/Max-Thrust-Pro-Built-Balsa-Ruckus-Kit-Uncovered-IC-or-Elec

3 flights this lunchtime with the Ruckus. About 27c but windier than forecast. Runway is starting to took scorched already

I would also suggest a Wot4. I returned to the hobby after a long layoff and started off with a Riot and then moved onto an ARTF Wot4 after about a year on the Riot. The Wot4 is more challenging to fly than a foamy and capable of everything needed for the b test.

A large capacity card will allow you to enable telemetry logging for all models. This can be useful for debugging the cause of radio problems (you can see rssi and stick values etc for the flight). I use my arm switch to turn on logging and have it log every 0.5 seconds.