Alan Gorham_

And have you ever painted with the paints under discussion in this thread?

This thread is about WarbirdColors brand paints though...

So, not painted using WarbirdColors then? Pretty sure Warbirds paint isn't polyurethane.

All masked. I can't do freehand camo very well.

As I said, I don't use an airbrush to paint large areas. It would take too long to get good coverage anyway, but the high pigment content of Warbirds is better suited to a spraygun.

Expect to do lots of stirring as the pigment is prone to settle, but some of my tins are still giving great results at over 10 years old!

The fact that you fitted a Spectrum receiver should have been a giveaway. The genuine articles are branded Spektrum....

I love them and wish they still had a UK distribution channel. They are water based and are clean, very low odour and very quick drying. I like the most because the pigment is very dense meaning you don't need to apply many coats to get perfect coverage. I spray all my models using a mini car touch up gun. Quick, easy and painless. I also paint all markings as it is fun. Having said that, I enjoy other paints such as the Hobby Flight enamel sold by King's Lynn models and also car cellulose paint. They are all user friendly as long as you use them correctly and develop a technique. Some models I have painted with Warbirds..

Look at p39 of the manual.

Have you assigned switch E to Channel 6 using the AUX-CH function?

I trust that you already have a valid Operator ID number via the CAA and the OP ID affixed to your over 250g models?

I think this is either an Inwood Models Improver or Pacer, or possibly a Masterline Vandal, but I am more sure it's one of the Inwood kits. Long out of production.

David, I have an HP Halifax only slightly larger than the 72“ Nijhuis Lanc. It is a powered model that I have flown at several PSSA events as a pure glider. Here is what I do to make it a PSS model: 1. Remove props. 2. Retract undercarriage. 3. Launch and enjoy. Unless your model is particularly heavy, I don't understand why you need to 'convert' it.

I do this and it works, but I also like to put a coat of Solarfilm Clearcoat over the masking tape to guarantee the film will stick down forever. It looks much nicer than filming on top of the glass cloth as the weave is completely hidden by the tape.

Lovely!

Thanks Roy, am very pleased with the model, it certainly put a smile on my face. If you have a spare 15 now, then consider a Birdie Ten, plan available on Outerzone. It's a mini old school pattern ship. Flies nicely and is easy and cheap to build. George had a small Bellanca built from a Peter Rake plan, but all foam instead of balsa sticks. Has he made a new one?

Piers, the instructions are posted in this very thread! They advised 1/4“ each way on both rudder and elevator. I have probably doubled that, certainly for the rudder. And, yes, I did check that the dihedral is as per plan!

Me again! Maiden flight of my Spatman completed. In fact we managed three flights. I had set the throws as per the instructions and the model was much less responsive than I remembered. Over the next two flights I increased throws and by the third flight we had reached the fast, groovy model I used to fly back in the day. Just for nostalgia's sake, on the third flight I let the tank run dry and glided down to the strip dead stick. Total fun... Here is Spatman keeping company with my Limbo Dancer.

Sorry, that's wrong. Several full size biplanes including the Tiger Moth incorporate mechanical differential and they definitely have a small amount of down aileron movement and a much greater degree of up movement.

I agree with Pat that the way the plan is drawn it looks like you will get differential aileron movement due to the fact that the horn is set back from the hinge line. It is distinctly odd and as Peter says, it must be a draughting error.

If you are trying to say that the ST2000/2500 type motors were not Schnuerle ported and therefore lacked power, then that's not correct. They used Super Tigre's own variation on Schnuerle. That is, the transfer ports are arranged either side of the exhaust Port, as set out by Herr Schnuerle, but ST also used a pair of boost ports immediately opposite the exhaust as well.

Calling mine mostly done. Just need to glass and paint the spats.

You need to mount the engine so that it is central in the cowl opening. Simple as that, I'd say.

Definitely install the engine with no thrust line offsets. They just aren't needed on a model with this configuration. As Jon says, just applying a bit of right rudder in long verticals is easy. Imagine how horrible it would look with the prop and spinner at funny angles to the front of the cowl!

Thanks Roy. Am very pleased with the results I got with the foam wing. It was fun working with obechi veneer again, been many years. Am keen to make more foam wings but I think I'll do a Mini Skyman next as per plan. Covering tonight...