gillyg1

Looks great Richard, have posted it on my club site to see if theres any takers, as i have 3x of yours in the loft and I'm an i/c man, i will decline from the 190. Is the tempest going to be the chin one or the round cowl version which i expect it will be ?

Now that would be nice, 63" w/s "tiffy" 😉

I always seal my brown paper using a mix of dope and banana oil- stops the shrinking effect of the dope, thinned with cellulose thinners. Fine sand with " wet n dry" used dry to get rid of the surface hairy effect, ready to prime.👍

I use the brown paper that the automotive sprayers use for masking up, comes in large rolls, so pop along to your local spray shop see if you can scrounge some , end of a roll maybe ? Or even offer to pay for some 😉 I'm lucky as my son works in that industry so have a ready supply .

Hi chaps Having just "caught up" with this thread which ever you decide on ? It will be 52fs power for me, being not gone over too " the dark side " 😉

Firstly is it electric or i/c. Clearkote will be fine for electric set up, although will give a gloss finish, For a eqivalent : "rc world" do Poly C, which will give a matt finish and is fuel proof,and the more coats is "ding proof" Hope this helps - cheers Graham

Has anyone on here modelled the sea hurricane before ? If so who did you use for decals and technical nomencleture ? In contact with " Moorland scale model decals" Been quoted £67 for decals and tech set including postage.

Cheers guys, Jon very helpful. Ron photos will come in handy when finishing, do you have any photos of the deck hook with associated securing points?

Guys about to start my hurricane, as a winter build , going to do it as 7L, shuttleworths sea hurricane. One thing i'm not clear on, is the 3 colours on the airframe. 1, underside : duck egg blue 2: top side: dark sea grey. 3: ??? is it : extra dark sea grey,or would it be some sort of green ? I've seen it modelled with the 3rd colour being green, however this was critisized in the write up as incorrect. So any advice would be welcome. Many thanks Graham ( Cornwall)

I've used neoprene rubber, from a wet suit, x2 layers job done, or a mouse mat, incidently these suggestions came from the man himself RW, and i got my wet suit neoprene from a helmet someome left on the beach 👍

Yeah sounds like a plan, Was well impressed with the standard of finish Jonathan, well done 👌😉

well might have taken awhile, but standing on its own legs at last, awaiting ground runs , too run engines in ?

Thankyou Graham ( sudbury)

Paul, that looks so good, the weathering job is excellent, Please has anybody written an article on "weathing warbirds" in one off our WR threads? I know i've probably asked this before, and sure i've seen one somewhere, explaining how to achieve the weatherd look. I have been experimenting myself using the black,white,and metallic permanent marker pens, smudging effect using fingers, are you using pastels, to achieve the dark staining ? Or an airbrush , for general "dirtying up " Many thanks Graham ( Cornwall)

Matt, with regard to " positive locking" of nuts and bolts, my method, which is a common practice, centre punch the thread of the bolt where it meets the nut, once tightened,so as your putting a dimple right in the corner between bolt thread and nut surface, thus preventing the nut rotating, job done. Have been using the method on engine mounting bolts, and engine securing bolts. Hope you get the gist of this ?

Ditto Eric. I also give a coat of dope mix ,( thinners/ banana oil), once dry. Then a light sand, just prepares the surface for painting.?

Yes Chris, forgot to mention - my engine is inverted.

Guys - i have a laser 80 fitted in a VQ fw190, and yes the tank ( slec - yellow) is at the fitted height, so the c/l of the tank is way above where it should be, ( in line with the carb) and the only draw back being fuel leaks out the carb when tank is full. Don't have another problems, and runs sweet, as a sewing machine. But i do have a pressure nipple fitted to the exhaust, Don't know if this makes a difference ? And i'm quite happy with this set up.. So you loose a few drops of fuel prior to starting. Just my thoughts / input.?

Nice choice of engine SW, laser 80 me thinks ?, thats going to be my choice, when i finally get around to it. Finishing off the 110, at the spraying stage ?, 2x rcv 58 cd's .

Try" Diacov" available from " sarik hobbies" who have a sale on now until the 31st. Never used it personally so no experience of it. But reviews seem good, £10 / running mtr. ?

No. Brown paper straight onto wood, obviously having sanded and filled where necessary , ( B&Q light weight filler ?)

Ok its a relatively soft finish, compared to fibre glass method. You could use subsequent coats of poly c , to harden up the finish , instead of the dope, as its just a surface sealer. The more coats of poly c, the more " ding proof". Method:- primer , light sand ( wet or dry) then colours - emulsion, then when decals, weathering, panel lines, rivets etc, ie finished : then apply fuel proofer, and yes i spray all mine. Except for "touching in" with a brush. No its not a real hard finish. But is fairly resilient. And you realy only need to fuel proof the : engine bay, tank bay , cowling, and exhaust areas. As using automotive lacquer : 2x part , it sets in about 30 mins. I got mine from my son, hes a car finisher/ sprayer , runs his own business, same as the brown paper as thats what they use for masking up. So if you know anyone in that line of business ?

I personally use the brown paper method. Applied to sheeted surfaces, use your coverall for the fabric surfaces. Apply like wall papering, thinned pva.with water, like milk. Apply to dull side of brown paper. Allow 30secs to grow, apply to surface, rubbing out the creases. Use covering iron, i have a travelling iron, to help adhering, pva reacts to heat. Allow to dry overnight, Light sand , 600 wet n dry , used dry. Apply coat of dope to seal surface. I thin the dope,and add banana oil, takes out the shrinking effect of dope. Light sand when dry.- ready for primer etc. I use automotive " high build" 2 pack. Fuel proofer - (glow) automotive 2 part lacquer. : 1x coat give a matt/satin finish, subsequent coats will result in a gloss finish. This is my preferred finishing technique. For finishing colours- B n Q match pots, emulsion, £3 a pot, made to any colour, matt finish. Hope this helps ? Cheers Graham. Ps brown paper method - as used by " Warbird Replicas" modellers, Richard Wills - kits ? Look up / read some of the WR threads ,

Martin , i have used stiff card and pva to line my wheel well walls. ie the depth around the edges, cheaper than balsa. Cereal box, etc plenty in the recycling box ?

What we really need is a beaufighter, big enough for a pair of laser 70/80s . I know there is the TN 72" electric one, could convert that to i/c, and then there was one that fsm did a write up on, 89 " but that was a one off , and yes i'am into i/c. But we've been here before. Spoken to RW himself regarding this topic in the past. So don't hold out much hope. Thats my "pipe dream" ?