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Mike T

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Everything posted by Mike T

  1. Mike T
    Or try Tony Eifflaender at PAW. I got a 4BA comp screw and a small size NVA off him last year to get a DC Merlin going.
  2. Mike T
    Shame about Ian Gillies. To rub salt in the wound, his product - laser cutting, wood choice and packaging - is excellent quality!
  3. Mike T
    I might pursue with the BMFA the possibility of getting their (our!) insurers to provide a brokerage service for this type of insurance.   Edited By Mike T on 07/04/2020 17:19:07
  4. Mike T
    I've raised the question of insurance here before. In the process of renewing my home insurance a couple of years back, I actually read the small print and found that 'aircraft' were excluded. I assume this referred to full-size (or at least 'person-carrying' aircraft), in the same way as your home insurance would not cover your car, caravan, speedboat, etc. When I checked with my (then) insurer (Privilege), they confirmed it was aircraft of any sort! * They were quickly kicked into touch and I found an insurer (LV) who would cover my aircraft as 'valuables in the home'. Beware also the limits on 'valuables stored in outbuildings'. Many insurers have a £5 or £10k limit. Tot up the contents of your shed/workshop and I'll bet many here have a figure way in excess of that...   *When I explained that I just wanted them insured as 'valuables in the home' (i.e basically fire/theft cover) that cut no ice. When I asked why they would insure model boats or trains (both items cited as exclusions from their 'exclusion' , I was told "well you aren't likely to take those out and crash them into somebody, are you"...   Edited By Mike T on 07/04/2020 17:11:01
  5. Mike T
    Thanks Nigel/Gary. Looks like use of an OS system falls into the legal category of "Son, you're on your own..."
  6. Mike T
    In my Pup, I used thin alloy tube mounted in balsa blocks above and below the top longeron. The inner portion of the tubes bend down to point at the servos (which are installed upright). Using nylon covered trace wire, friction is not a problem.
  7. Mike T
    Posted by Barrie Lever on 06/04/2020 13:02:20: To be clear I was meaning a software programming error in the open source software that under some undetermined set of parameters caused a loss of control, so which of the open source contributors was responsible? Barrie, in the circumstances you describe above, IMO the pilot would be responsible, but I don't think, in the legal sense, that they would be held to be 'negligent'. I'm way beyond my knowledge here, so I hope one of the OS gurus steps in to help, but if, for example, you were to make your own changes to the OS code without them being reviewed/cleared by the OS community, then that might be construed as 'negligent'.
  8. Mike T
    To backtrack from what Denis says, once you have satisfied that your radio is OK to make the flight, any operator error in the use of the programming is as much a 'dumb thumb' as pulling 'up' when inverted. So it's a honest mistake which insurance would cover. Re use of mix 'n match modules, same applies - as long as you satisfy yourself it's ok, then you're covered. As it's the transmission frequency and power that is covered by the various regulations, then as long as your module carries a CE mark confirming compliance, then you're covered. It is not for you to worry about whether that mark is genuine or not (unless you import it directly, which opens up a whole new can of peas...)
  9. Mike T
    Water under the bridge now, as David has bought a T8J, but for anybody in the same position with and 'oldy but goody' radio, I would echo others' advice to get Mike Ridley to give it the once over. Futaba and JR especially are pretty bullet proof and worth preserving and upgrading with aftermarket modules. I have FrSky modules in my FF9 and my JR388 - the latter is 23 years old...
  10. Mike T
    The oracover instructions advise getting aerials outside and in a different (geometrical) plane. I make sure my aerials are outside, even on foamies...
  11. Mike T
    They do on some ribs, to be sure, elsewhere (mainly on the lower surface) they look to be 1/8 x 3/16 slots. Maybe go with a slot matching the stripwood supplied in the kit?
  12. Mike T
    Posted by Steven Webb (Steve Webb Models) on 02/04/2020 17:26:58: I think we should get back to who’s trading Yes... Just had a delivery from RC World. I was prepared for a delay, but - ordered Mon pm, delivered this am. Also,an ebay order placed on Monday pm arrived yesterday - as fast as I would expect under normal circumstances. Maybe the PO, etc has less junk mail to process and is able to deliver 'proper' mail easier? Edited By Mike T on 02/04/2020 19:22:45
  13. Mike T
    The plan I'm looking at (outerzone) refers to "twin" spars, but I think that just means top and bottom (as there is a similar reference to the T.E. sheeting). The main spars are, however, effectively 'doubled' over the centre ribs (W1 and W2's) by a spacer which bridges the gap between the spars and the bellcrank mounting plates. HTH...
  14. Mike T
    I used the bobbin (Lord) type on a GP 1/3 Pitts. Ended up using 6 - 4 for the mount, plus two to damp the radial oscillations! The old Apache Aviation mounts were good and relatively inexpensive, but you have to bolt them down quite hard to keep the harmonics high up. I've got them in my 1/4 scale H9 Cub and DB Pup, where they seem quite effective. Re the DuBro mounts mentioned above, apart from being eye-wateringly expensive, I'm pretty sure I read somewhere that they should only be used for upright or inverted mounting, NOT sidewinder (I can't think why?)
  15. Mike T

    Mike T posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  16. Mike T
    Not sure the world needs another Staudedgxtra... GBQED would have been interesting though. I always think of the P-2 as the trainer with a juicer on its nose It'll be interesting to see how you engineer that!
  17. Mike T
    Fascinating thread. I must admit that if pushed, I would have described the main bearing as the thrust carrier and the front bearing as the anti-waggle device. Now it may well be that I'm misunderstanding what is being referred to as 'thrust'. I take it as being the load generated by the prop and acting (pulling) through the axis of the crankshaft. If this is the case, then that load is being transferred from the inner race ('locked' to the shaft by the prop nut, etc.) to the outer race via the cage/balls. So this begs the question: why is the front bearing - a caged ball-race designed to take axial loads - being used to take thrust loads? Surely all front bearings should be proper thrust bearings? (As Barrie says above - use the old BB as a press tool - to ensure the load is only on the outer race and avoid loading the cage...)
  18. Mike T
    Posted by Stephen Smith 14 on 18/03/2020 12:19:26: Have you tried corona servos They can only be used in very large models where they can be kept at least 2 metres apart. (I'll get me coat...) I quite like Bluebird servos. Most of them seem to be made in Taiwan, which for me = Japanese standards of quality control. I won't touch Supertec with a bargepole, but you don't see those around so much any more...
  19. Mike T
    When I first read this thread, I thought "wouldn't it be great if the AAIB could be got to investigate all our crashes?" They'd lay out your wreckage in one of their hangars, interrogate you and your radio gear, examine your airframe minutely, then publish a report pinpointing, definitively the cause of your crash. Peace of mind and an end to fruitless speculation! Then I read the link that Leccy posted: “The cause of the control signal loss was not established.” So - they have no more bleddy idea than we have!
  20. Mike T
    Posted by Bob Cotsford on 13/03/2020 18:59:57: ....I cheat by making ply washers that are a close fit on the tube and cutting the rib holes a shade oversize. Then I slide the tube in adding a washer for each rib, set the dihedral and finally glue the washers to the ribs. Yup! I do the same as you (and Don). Also use this method for accurately positioning wing locating dowels in bulkheads Edited By Mike T on 14/03/2020 14:35:10
  21. Mike T
    Masking film every time. For the outer parts of large roundels, cut 1/4 or 1/3 diameter segments for your circles. This reduces waste and makes laying down the film easier, especially on the undulating top surface of a typical fabric-covered wing with riblets! I use my compass and 4B pencil for lightly marking where the masking film should go. I've tried using the ruling pen attachment in my 'spring bow' compass, but to no good effect. I accept I don't have the knack and (for the limited use it would get) neither the patience or inclination to acquire it!
  22. Mike T
    Posted by Alan Gorham_ on 27/02/2020 16:57:45: August edition with plan is available here, I've used this site before many times to buy old magazines with confidence: **LINK** Edited By Alan Gorham_ on 27/02/2020 16:57:54 It is a useful resource and we're lucky to have it. BUT: be careful of those 'plan included' messages that flash up. You need to check the detailed description and even then it does not always make it clear that the plan is NOT included. Best get in touch before buying if it's te plan you're really after!
  23. Mike T

    Sample Pots

    Mike T replied to Erfolg's topic in Chit-chat

    It depends on your take-away, but my response to the OP's question is "Onion Bhajees". Mine come with a little (lidded) pot of raita. Washed out after use, they are ideal for small portions of resin and can be 'flexed' clean after the previous occupant has gone off. Big enough to get a reasonable quantity in and small enough to be weighed on my drug dealers scales!
  24. Mike T
    Labels - how hard has it got to be? Printed off a list of my ID on bog standard A4, 25mm long, 3.2mm high. Cut them out with a scissors and sellotape to the plane! By the time I'm finished the entire exercise will have cost less than a quid. Also re police interest, a retired copper friend of mine says if he knows anything about the force, they'll be competing amongst themselves to see who can chalk up the first pinch and £1000 fine. So when the local gauleiter struts up to you and demands 'papieren!', you'd better have your 'ausweis' handy! (And mind you don't give yourself away if he wishes you 'good luck' in English...)
  25. Mike T
    You should use what you are most comfortable with. What I described will achieve perfectly secure results, but if you need something 'heavier duty' to give you confidence, then fine. At the end of the day, all you are trying to do is stop a nut unwinding (the load is on the threaded pin). It doesn't take a lot to achieve that.
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