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Mike T

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Everything posted by Mike T

  1. Mike T
    Can't believe I've missed this thread until now. My first 'proper' RC model was a Trueline Executive Custom (when I mention this to Clubmates they look at me blankly) with a Merco 35. That was back in November '74. Kit, engine and McGregor digimac 4 radio cost me about 140 quid! (My third months wages - 1st to Mam, 2nd on a Sansui cassette deck!)
  2. Mike T
    You could just alter the bottom line of the 'canopy' so that it curves gracefully around the switch. The full size Salto's canopy does something like this. I didn't bother with a canopy on mine (or the Ph 6), so you just see the pure lines of the fus.
  3. Mike T
    I've not used these people, but they seem to have a huge selection! Topp Rippin (Germany):  **LINK** Edited By Mike T on 27/03/2018 20:05:02
  4. Mike T
    Your step looks to be vertically under the 'kink' in the lower fus., which is where mine is. Compare and contrast: Tried and tested...   PS - works superbly on snow too! Edited By Mike T on 17/03/2018 17:28:41
  5. Mike T

    Mike T posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  6. Mike T

    Mike T posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  7. Mike T

    Contra Piston

    Mike T replied to Erfolg's topic in Chit-chat

    Off the top of my head (and a long shot): Try "gaviscool" an ebay seller who does reproduction piston rings for all sorts of engines. He may be able to do you a contra-piston at reasonable cost. **LINK** Edited By Mike T on 16/03/2018 13:18:40
  8. Mike T
    Just to clarify (a bit!) the import duty scenario: If the total value of your purchase is £18 (equivalent) or less, then you pay not VAT, no duty. Over £18 and up to £135, you pay the VAT, plus whatever handling fee your shipper charges for processing the payment (their fee for collecting tax on behalf of HMG). If your purchase is over £135, then you pay duty, plus VAT on top of the duty-inclusive cost, plus the fee. However, you only pay duty if the duty is more than £9. You would need to look up the duty rates, dependent on type of goods and country of origin, but the stuff we usually buy as modellers e.g. from China is usually rated at 2%, so your order (inc delivery) would have to be the equivalent of £450 before duty kicked in. HTH. E&OE... PS - You can't always choose, but if your delivery options include DHL - avoid! Edited By Mike T on 15/03/2018 11:34:55 Edited By Mike T on 15/03/2018 11:35:47
  9. Mike T
    NI only at the moment...
  10. Mike T
    http://www.modelflying.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=103785 Edited By Mike T on 12/03/2018 16:29:45
  11. Mike T
    Posted by kc on 27/02/2018 14:29:14: I reckon all this discussion has confused the budding designers! If that means we will be spared their efforts and the world will be a safer place, surely that's a "good thing"? Those who've taken the trouble to read and digest will certainly be better informed. My thanks to John and David for their scholarly contributions
  12. Mike T

    Lidl Sander

    Mike T replied to Andy48's topic in Hints and Tips

    Yep - bought one the last time they came around. Solidly built - 'does what it says on the tin'. Table is removable and a bench clamp supplied. They also have a pillar drill for £60 which looks attractive, but I'd want to get it out of the box to check whether the quill wobbles when fully lowered
  13. Mike T
    It's Svetlana!       Edited By Mike T on 25/01/2018 16:57:45
  14. Mike T
    I got around the draughty steel door problem by walling it off as a DIY and utility store. I built a stud partition wall clad with MDF and gyproc, with a rockwool fill. The insulation on the remaing remaining 'external' walls is a composite cladding sheet (8 x 4), which is 40mm thick styrene foam bonded to gyproc with a foil layer in between. I can't remember what it's called. The foam side is stuck to the garage wall with the adhesive provided by the supplier. The floor was sealed and laid with 2nd hand carpet tiles. The old wood/glass side door (now the only access) was replaced with an outward opening uPVC type, with a multipoint lock. NB - it's worth looking into your house insurance to see what kind of locks they expect on your outbuildings, to ensure your cover extends to them! Heating is a £20 Dimplex fan. I turn it on (and the tubes) to warm up 10 minutes before heading in there. Toasty...
  15. Mike T
    Good to hear! I've not heard of Red Fin, but Sharma rings a bell. My point was that diesels are comparatively rare.
  16. Mike T
    ... and not only that, but glows are so widely available and relatively cheap, why would you bother? AFAIK, the only commercially available diesels now are PAWs.
  17. Mike T
    Also, apart from 'off the shelf' hardware like nuts and bolts, you can make all of a Diesel yourself. With a glow, you most likely end up having to buy a plug, which would probably stick in the craw a bit...
  18. Mike T
    Posted by Tom Sharp 2 on 13/01/2018 00:10:24: Very impressive bit of film, much information, like oiling the rockers before starting, not seen this at a scale competition. I notice Goring was amongst the pilots standing around Manfred. Priming the engine with neat fuel in the exhaust ports, I think... Goering was in the mix, but I don't think he was at Manfred's "Team Briefing" (obviously announcing the Jasta's rewards scheme and performance bonus details...) The RFC pilot looked a little dishevelled and confused - not surprising if he'd just been shot down. His open jacket suggests he's been frisked as well (bet they nicked his watch). The gurning loon on the left is Anthony Fokker...
  19. Mike T
    Gosh! Those were the days! I still have an original Rega Planar 3 turntable, with AKG, Ortofon and Satin cartridges. The Armstrong receiver is now part of my garage/workshop set up, as are the speakers I built from plans in Hi Fi News back in'74. A living room makeover a few years back required me to upgrade to something a little more domestically acceptable. IMO, the KEF and Cambridge Audio gear I got to replace them ain't half as good (mind you, the ears have had a bit of wear as well...)
  20. Mike T
    I'd put the lead in 'dry'. That way you can pack down the lead thoroughly (tap the nose on the floor) and dribble in the epoxy afterwards. Warm the front end to thin it so it fills all the cavities. Trying to get a 'wet' mix in there will end in tears!
  21. Mike T
    Posted by Merco 61 on 07/01/2018 16:41:37: Another way: find a piece of tubing to fit the hole(or slot) Then suck sufficient adhesive up into the tube,insert and blow.Flatten tube if for a slot. I like that. You could probably use a lightly oiled piece of piano wire to make a simple syringe. For barbed 'hinge point' type hinges, PVA/Titebond is perfectly fine. Easy clean-up means you can ensure the glue comes right up to the hinge's knuckle, without danger of it locking up the hinge.
  22. Mike T
    I'd use meths to degrease, it will dissolve the methanol and oil better than petrol and certainly wont stink as much! A tip I got many years ago was to mix a paste of meths and talcum powder, then slather it on the fuel soaked parts. The idea is that the meths dissolves the oil and draws it into the talc as it evaporates. After a day or so, the talc will be full of oil and you scrape it off and clean up with meths. Repeat as necessary. I've done this a few times and it does work. However on a badly rotted airframe, you are probably better off putting in new wood!
  23. Mike T
    Posted by Jonathan M on 04/01/2018 20:02:42: It strikes me that I am perhaps being a bit too detailed in documenting almost every step of this build? Nope! It's all good... Re the wingtips - just in case I'm reading you wrong, there should only be one layer of ply in the sandwich as this defines the centreline of the tip as well as the LE and TE. If you have more than one layer, it will introduce all sorts of problems with carving! If you make the tip full chord, so you have an inset aileron, then the tip core must align with the TE of the aileron, so you must fix this in place temporarily (and properly aligned at the root as well) in order to determine the position of the tip's TE:
  24. Mike T

    Mike T posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  25. Mike T
    Typical aeromodeller - loads of planes... I think the wingtips are a bit of a cop-out from CF. At least he could have put in some thicker stock so you could get some sort of a profile! I'd go with laminated 1/4 sheet - preferably with some 1mm or 1/16 ply in the sandwich to reinforce the edge. PS - like the dowels too.  Gonna nick that for my next one! Edited By Mike T on 03/01/2018 13:09:10
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