Rick Tee

You don't need to do much maths to calculate the initial C of G for a model, just go here put in a few dimensions. **LINK**

Sorry I don't have any atm, the model they were on erm bit the dust a while ago. A quick google of turbulators should reveal a few images. Just stick 3 layers of pvc tape together to the length you want and cut a 3mm - 4mm (roughly) wide strip with pinking sheers.

I feel for you, i've been unemployed for the last 2 years, at the age of 61 it's been an uphill struggle just to get interviews. Ageism seems to be rife atm unfortunately hard to prove or i'd be quite well off by now lol.

You could try turbulators, 3mm - 4mm wide strips of PVC tape 2 - 3 layers, 100mm - 200mm long should do. May take some experimenting to find the best position, start off close to the wing tip 15% of the chord from the leading edge. I've had some success reducing tip stall with them.

Planetside 2 FPS or Warbirds WW I & WW II sim.

Thanx for that Josip. I have noticed that fuel seems to go off quite quickly these days, i have some that's around 2-3months old which seems to be past its best even though its kept tightly sealed. I'm wondering if its the poor quality of the plastic cans that's the problem. I'm no chemist but i thought methanol kept ok if stored sealed, cool and dry. Normally fuel doesn't last me that long but this year most of my flying time has been taken up teaching new members. Does anyone store their fuel in something other then the plastic cans it comes in?

To take off with a tail dragger, hold full up elevator, open the throttle until the model starts to roll forward, open the throttle to full and return the elevator to neutral. At this point the tail should lift, wait until flying speed is obtained and rotate. If the tail does not lift its likely either the main wheel axles are too far forward or the main gear is too short. Axles should be in line or slightly ahead of the leading edge at the wing root when the fuselage is parallel to the ground.

Posted by Bearair on 02/11/2013 07:09:36: Another vote for the Wot4 foame, like others I am not a great fan of foamies but ive taken people from beginner to B cert with this plane. The only slight criticism I can make of it is the undercarriage can be a bit weak. The best cure I've seen is dowels through the fus and elastic band the undercarriage on. Roger Really! you think someone who has taken their 'A' & 'B' cert on a foamy is ok to fly a 100" aerobatic model in front of a crowd. Or am i missing something, is there a foame 'B'? Edited By Rick Tee on 02/11/2013 07:30:59

**LINK** Worth a look.

Tail trim? full up? if so sounds like wing/tail incidence is out. No longitudinal dihedral could result in pitch instability, hard to tell from the vids but does look like that may be your problem. If you trim straight and level at cruise speed does it continue straight and level hands off? and is the fuselage parallel to the ground? Edited By Rick Tee on 08/10/2013 06:37:35 Edited By Rick Tee on 08/10/2013 06:42:21 Edited By Rick Tee on 08/10/2013 06:44:08

The instruction manual is here: **LINK** Start the engine give it a minute to warm up, open the throttle to full, adjust the needle valve to max RPM (use an RPM gauge), then richen the mixture until the it drops by 300 to 500rpm. Close the throttle and set the tick-over to around 1800 - 2000rpm (if its new 2200 - 2400rpm). If it seems to be banging hard and missing then dying the low end needle is too rich, if it just dies its too lean. Adjust the low end until the engine picks up cleanly after ticking over for 10secs. To reset the low end needle to factory default turn it until its flush with the throttle arm then screw it in half a turn. If the settings seem close but the rpm drops when removing the glow stick try a new plug (OS F). All the ones i've set up from new have had the low end set very rich from the factory. Tip: set an engine up to fly not to run nice on the ground. Edited By Rick Tee on 07/10/2013 07:30:35 Edited By Rick Tee on 07/10/2013 07:31:14

Mmmm balsa.

Posted by PatMc on 28/09/2013 20:15:54: Barack Obama & David Cameron are both left handed rulers. Are you sure? I thought they were left handed tools.

I dont think you can give a rating to someone who purchased from you outside of Ebay, hence a scammer may well have 100%. I'm not suggesting your a scamer or excusing the abuse, I've had ppl ask to end auctions and some are annoyingly persistant upping the anti with each message. My reply is always the same "NO, if you want it bid on it GL." Edited By Rick Tee on 18/09/2013 09:11:31

Posted by john melia 1 on 17/09/2013 19:48:28: thanks will-o i seen that engine earlier today , i emailed the guy selling it , and asked him what he would take for it , just in case he wanted the money quick , as some people do , and end the auction ....................... but i wasnt prepared for the reply that i received a few hours later , the guy was aggressive and abusive saying that people who want to end an auction early are idiots , among other expletives that i won't repeat on here , so i replied stating i was only asking and that a polite "no" would have sufficed , anyway i ended up telling him where he could put his engine. So thats the end of that , i was going to place a few bids , and if i'd won i was going to put my irvine on ebay to recoup the cost a bit , as its still in its original box , with instructions ect , and has had very little use , anyway i ended up phoning eddie at db sprt and scale , and asked him what he thought about putting a sc91 in the Jodel , he got back to me and said if i can get it to fit , then yes it'll be fine , as long as the CG ends up in the same place . he said the engine size/power is virtually irrelivant . So i'm now thinking of installing the sc91 ............... any thoughts ?? There are a number of scams associated with ppl asking to have an auction ended early. The seller would be surrendering sellers protection by trading outside of Ebay which is not recommended. By asking, the seller would have regarded you as a scammer hence the abuse. Edited By Rick Tee on 18/09/2013 07:32:37

Posted by Peter Miller on 17/09/2013 08:26:56: By the way. No one seems to have mentioned that sheets are not always straight. I have a meter long straight edge and use that to trim the sheets to a perfect straight edge. When buying straight edges do check that they are in fact straight. some of the cheap ones can be bowed which raather defeats the object of the excercise. I checked all of the Stanley steel rulers 2'+ in 3 DIY stores, none were straight, many were out by a lot too.

On some Saitos the carb manifold vibrates enough to cause the head seal to leak, putting a tie wrap around it solves the problem. Make sure it goes behind the push rod tubes. Edited By Rick Tee on 08/09/2013 06:37:27

I use high temp oil resistant silicone or acrylic sealer, the bath room type doesn't seem to tolerate the heat or oil.

Posted by IanR on 31/08/2013 14:11:00: The Flite Test lads recently suggested a solution to joining thick gauge wire together. It seemed to work very well indeed and, although they were specifically talking about thick gauge wire, I have thought that it would be a good way with smaller gauge wire, also, say, servo wires. I haven't needed to try it myself, yet, but see what you think - **LINK** Ian This video shows the method i was taught in the RAF for splicing wires together, it results in a good mechanical connection, though the copper wire is wrapped around rather poorly in this example. Laying wires side by side always has a small risk of producing a dry joint. Edited By Rick Tee on 01/09/2013 06:17:56

Posted by Bruce Austin on 29/08/2013 14:46:24: I have observed that water draining out of a wash hand basing always goes in the same direction, and so was just wondering if thermals tend to also go in the same direction. South of the equator the water drains in the opposite direction, for those that were not aware. interesting, eh? Myth.

Spektrum and JR slaves are powered by their own battery so the issue does not occure, Futaba slaves are powered by the master hence the voltage problem. Not sure about multiplex but looks like they work the same as Spektrum/JR.

Get yourself one of these K&S 326 Mighty Wire Bender with Coil Winder and a good bench vice, works for me.

Hmm i understood NiMhs should not be trickle charged like NiCads. The charge rate is normaly marked on them and some have a fast charge rate too. Probably best to stick with that. I use Vapextech new technology packs, new ones are cycled twice to balance the cells (Discharged at 500ma charged at C/10), after that i charge them at 1A. Twice a year i re cycle them to re balance, test capacity and get an indication of their self discharge rate. Most packs seem to last me around 4 years before their self discharge rate and reduced capacity indicate its time to replace them. But that would depend on how much use they get. Edited By Rick Tee on 20/08/2013 08:13:38

I drill the holes fit the hinges and put the control surface in place. Check the alignment, shim with bits of balsa, once correct shims are glued in with PVA. Then use an instrument screw driver to spread a little Vaseline in and around the moving part, put plenty of epoxy in the hole and wet the ridged part of the hinge with a film of epoxy. Push the hinge in and wipe away any epoxy that leaks out with kitchen paper towel.

Posted by cymaz on 18/08/2013 07:10:24: I thought the studs in the road were markers for the visually impaired so they knew where the edge of the crossing was. Lol.