gangster

I used large oral syringes from the chemist

Yes and other modelling stuff. About a year ago I hadn’t flown down over a year. Recharged the battery and at least a couple were out of balance. Tried every trick in the book including destroying one of the battery’s. Then DVM told me my meter was faulty. Went to Amazon Three lipos, a dual charger and a new meter were on the doorstep in less than a day and on a Sunday. Sad but that’s the way of the world. on another point , I wouldn’t wrap my sarnies in Solafilm either. Too damn expensive might as well forget the sarnies and go to an expensive restaurant.

I have couple chunks of lead in mine to get the cog where it is shown on the plan. Flies like a dream, lovely model .. enjoy ?

How do you know they are at 95%. ? Can you trust your meter/charger? Have you checked other batteries? If they show a similar discrepancy there could be a pattern there. As others have suggested verify with a DVM.

Not necessarily poor receiver installation. Brown out is purely power related and nothing to do with signal Like you said a ubec that sagged on load, dodgy connectors or mucky switch. Most receivers recover from that if it’s a temporary blip but some DSM2 won’t . I would certainly put a ubec through its paces before I trusted it. Having said that I have never had one that sagged too much

With regards the aerial length you need only measure the clear bit at the end . They should be the same length. Someone mentioned brown outs that affected some dms2 receivers. This has given rise to a lot af old wives tales. The problem is not the fault of the receiver it is the fault of the installation and will affect every make of receivers. The problem is though these receivers take two or three seconds to recover and that is a long time in a model flight. Most other receivers get over it swiftly. Many people “paint over the cracks “ and run them on 6 volts to give a bit of headroom in case of voltage drop due to battery, leads, switch or heavy servos. The receivers actually run on 3.3 volts. Personally I have stuck with DSMX or used dsm2 receivers made by Orange. They are more tolerant than the Spektrum ones. If you do go to 6 volts make sure your servos can cope. Many JR servos cannot as well as older Futaba ones

So we pay £2 and get a servo that, Has a brittle output arm, indifferent spline, noisy pot that does not centre well, wiper that wears out in a short time, a case that is not great and indifferent plastic gears Hang on I have just described a Skyleader SRC1 of the 70s And they were swifter and queter and stronger than many of their contemporarys So perhaps £12-£15 for a good standard servo is the real bargain The difference is back then they cost over £20, which in real terms is well over £100.

Subtle difference both of mine differ from the previous pictures The odd one out in my collection is definitely more pink. The purple ones have different font positions and sizes to the genuine one shown. Both servos have the dimples but the cases are different the mounting lugs on the purple one is lower.

So is it possible to identify a fake Tower Pro MG90S. ? I am not a micro servo person but did buy 4 MG90S servos from a reputable source and put these in my Dawn flyer. I subsequently bought 4 more from eBay. That model has had hours of flying over the last few years. At least 3 years ago when doing pre flight checks the elevator did not work the servo was hot and the case bottom melting. I replaced it with one of the ebay ones and have flown happily since. I did however get a bit of concern about the servos and rang a reputable company with a view to changing them all. He talked me out of changing them saying he used them all the time and there was no reason not to use them. I bought a couple more from him. After reading this I got the servos on the bench to look at them,the four from eBay three are identical to the originals including the QC label. One however is completely different the MG90S is in larger font and the micro servo ina smaller font and the label much pinker. The label was not on straight either Interesting enough I had put this in a separate bag and labelled it “noisy pot ?” It performed effortlessly on a servo testertoday. Looking at the two later ones I bought from a reliable source these are labelled MG90D. And Torqpro.

A wise caveat there from Ron. Many years ago (about40) A friend and I bought some SLEC bombs. We filled them with flour and put a couple of elastic bands on them to hold them together. Planes(IC) rushed off down the strip leaving a white cloud behind “explosion” was sadly unspectacular (little flour left in bomb) but what a sticky mess on the model. Whilst an ep model would not have the oil flor is messy stuff

Many years ago I spent a couple of hours trying to get an old k&b45 running. The head was blowing. Various gaskets I made did not work. I was out of tricks and stood there staring at it eating a Mr Kipling fruit pie. I looked at the foil tray it came in and was inspired the thick foil mad a wonderful head gasket

I can see where you are coming from MattyB. But unless you were pushing things to the limit ie trying to drop a significant amount of power or your esc was on the limit I would not anticipate too much problem . I tend to over engineer my power trains as I suspect the quoted “ max current figures “ of esc and motors are a tad ambitious and allow little room for error.

Couple of thoughts 4 max and Robot birds are very helpful and will advise If you are going to experiment with battery voltage and prop size you will need a meter that measures power and current in order to present exceeding max current on either esc or motor Finally if you do over power the motor you can control with the transmitter in the same way you would a servo. Set to 100% and calibrate rhe esc Then reduce the max throw to give the required power at max. You will still need to keep the prop size within a sensible range

Isn’t this the old Crescent Tornado? If so it was a contemporary of schneurl ported engines back then. The Webra Speed HP Gold cup OS FSR ,Redshift and not forgetting the Irvine 61 itself. Those were the ones we were putting in the Tornado.Ok the modern engines are a tad lighter and a tad more powerful. But be assured that us old codgers were not pottering around with Cross flow scavenged engines in the 70s. Is it the same model

Like the others I have had hours of fun swapping pins round to use on Sanwa. Their kit was not even compatible between different models of the same make. Nightmare getting the right crystals or receivers. I never came across the later blue z plugs but looking at the manual extract it would suggest they changed their ways with regards pinout polarity. Maybe a Futaba/ Hitec would work fine with a little shaving

May look a bit sad but at the moment but as soon as you start to repair it hope will be restored. Yes they can be repaired. Splice in a nes bit of leading edge if that is crushef Peal back any screwed up veneer and replace with balsa. If the wing is creased in a way that it could fold then stick on a layer of glass cloth. A foam wing can be restored from a very sorry state Done it many times

The other thing this shows is that it is certainly not a silly question, no such thing. If this post prevents just one flyer from having a nasty it will be worth it. Hope you can repair the model

The moral of the story is that it is pointless measuring the open circuit voltage of a battery. A battery must always be measured on load

Just to be certain I assume the 4.5 was measured at the battery. If so you need to heed Martin’s advice and work out why it’s low. Duff? Forgot to charge? Long day? Also remember there is no such thing as a smart charger they can peak detect when there isn’t a peak

Ah you have added a useful bit of info. a 6 volt battery at 4.5 volts is bad news. It either indicates a duff cell of a flat battery. Since you have got a voltmeter you can prove pre tty conclusively. Reconnect all the servos , put the voltmeter on and waggle the sticks , does it drop further? Also you need to determine that any fro is due to a dud battery or switch harness or leads. Black lead corrosion is a strange one. As far as battery voltage affecting range is concerned, no the receivers have regulators in and run a bit over 3 volts.

Wow they have gone up ( I think! That’s two different prices. And another retailer has em at 169 claiming rrp as 179. Lovely model though. A joy to fly. Another nice kit for 4s 6-700 watts is the Mick Reeves gangster lite. That too has doubled in price. Lovely flyer

Nigel. Yes I built the challenger from the kit. No not a heavy build at all way lighter model than the acrowot. I used a Thumper 3548 from Overlander and if I remember correctly 13x8 prop bags of power on 4s. I take my hat off to the guy who did those videos The manual is very detailed on the building but somehow the guy who wrote it gave up on the fuselage and seems forgot to finish the instructions as a result it is possible to leave the fuselage floor out until too late ( guess how I know!). Not too serious though. Good review in RCME Dunno if you can still get them and how much They are now. They were £89. Probably double now

I assume you are looking for the traditional acrowot rather than the foam-e If so try the seagull challenger,assuming it is still available, lovely model about acrowot size but way lighter needs about 6-700 watts on ep whereas the AW probably needs nearer 900 and 5s. I have an acrowot artf on glow power and a kit built challenger on 4S EP. Love em both. Some one suggested the wooden ruckus, I have never seen one but got to be woRth a look. if it’s the foam-e you want how’s about a foam ruckus