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Suggestions for first shock style?


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if you're new to the indoor shocky scene i'd suggest an f3p model like a clik, osiris or similar. they fly very slowly so are easy to fly and are good for developing your skills on. They particularly excel at pattern aerobatics (which is why they were designed for f3p in the first place). If you can't wait to cut your teeth on a full on 3D hooligan's machine, the current pick are the donuts models sultimate, the silhoueteART extra 300 (£ouch! though) the fancy foam MX2 or the gernot bruckman yak 55. These can all be built as light as the f3p models, but my experience is with the clik v2 so i'd recommend that. It holds (or at least held?) the highest f3p score ever so its a quality machine. Best places to look are www.robotbirds.com and www.westlondonmodels.com for the silhouetteART.
 
Decide on an airframe (look around on youtube and see which one you like best) and post back as the radio and power systems for f3p and 3D models are slightly different.
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yes, the clik is basically a specialist indoor model which can be flown outside to very calm days. a lot of people seem to think that you can have a brilliant indoor model thats also a brilliant park fly model, but unfortunately this is just not the case. indoor models are built as light as possible for the slowest flying speeds which give the best control to the point at which they are fragile outside in anything more than 2-3mph.
 
so you have 2 choices:
 
- go for the lightweight, easier to fly indoor model which you should crash less indoors as it weighs less so flys slower and fly something else in the park
 
or
 
- go for a heavier compromise model which you will probably crash more indoors and you won't enjoy flying as much indoors
 
my first indoor shocky was a standard ikarus edge which flys just about everything outside, but i didn't have the confidence to fly to its limits indoors as it was too heavy and, as a result, too fast. I switched to a clik for this season and i'm landing on walls, dragging the tail on the floor inverted, catching the model from prop hangs every flight and flying some pretty cool low rolling circuits. It really is a different world to the heavier edge which limited my progression.
 
go for the clik and fly the wings off it indoors
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Posted by Frank Skilbeck on 07/02/2010 13:08:26:
I bought one of these,http://www.flyingwings.co.uk/store/product_info.php?cPath=160_131&products_id=735&osCsid=ef8176ca15a54c91e5d889eb5ccf444b but and due to work commitments I've only flown it outdoors at present.
 
I don't have anything to compare it with, but it is good fun. 

 
all the epp indoor models i've seen fly a lot worse than the depron ones indoors. some people say that epp is more crash resistant than depron indoors, but it is heavier, so carries more inertia and hence, energy, into a crash, leading to the same crash damage and it bends in flight more easily than depron which is much more rigid.
 
that yak look very similar to my ikarus edge. great for the park, but too heavy (170g with a 72.5cm wingspan) compared to a clik (140g with a 82cm span) for the best indoor performance. 
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Thanks guys. When imade the original post I DID imply only indoor, but after looking at the RB website I saw their indoor/ outdoor offering at just a few in he's bigger and it made me wonder. Ihave some buy not much access to school gyms etc whereas I have much access to a park. I take the point on EPP vs Depron and the effects of mass in a crash etc. I remember flying the gws things (stick?) indoors and out, but they Are museum pieces now compAred to what's flying. David
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sounds like you'll be flying in the park more often so the clik isn't the right model for you at the moment. there's a big difference between GWS stuff which is fine for big, floaty models with large wing areas and an aerobat. tricky one, as i've said its difficult to find a model that flies really well indoors yet is also suitable for park flying say up to 7-8mph without being blown away. If you're looking to improve your 3D skills outside i'd say go for something like a RC factory flash or multiplex parkmaster due to the limited indoor access.
 
Though i might share this with you though, just to show you what a clik can do indoors. I'm flying the blue, white, red and green frecce tricolori coloured one and a clubmate of mine is flying the white one with the red and blue 'sunburst' paint effect. 
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i take your point, vecchio, i'm sure most of them fly well. i don't think that they are as generally good quality as say, rc factory.
 
the robotbirds page for the flash recommends the hyperion Z2213/16 which robotbirds don't actually stock. the closest wind they do is the 2213/18. This is quite pricey so if you want to save money here, i don't blame you. The flash weighs about 1lb according to robotbirds so we're looking at a similar, 180-200W brushless outrunner of around 1000kV.
 
a 3s lipo is recommended so 200W/11.1 is about 20A so we're looking at a 25A+ ESC. There's lots of options for this so take your pick based on preference/budget.
 
Robotbirds recommend a 3s lipo between 650-1200mAh so a 1000mAh would be a good place to start. Base your pack on weight. If you need to save weight, get a smaller, higher C rating pack. if you have some AUW allowance left, go for a mid-larger pack.
 
Prop should be on the motor data sheet.
 
Recommends 9-12g servos so some high torque 9 grams should be fine.
 
Receiver of your choice, keep it light. I'd go for a spekky AR6100(e) or 6110(e)
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Hi David
 
For the flash -The Loong-Max  11.1v 3s   20a   1300 mAH  lipos   work very well.  I think RB are doing them for just over a Tenner - or at least they were.
 
PS If you go for the flash  ( I have the orange/black - my son has the Red/black one)  However my mate bought the lastest colour scheme one from them at the Nats. Its like a multi colour rainbow finish. Its very nice - it looks far better than the 2 we have.
 
Al

 

 

Edited By Alan B on 08/02/2010 09:46:17

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  • 2 months later...
 
Though i might share this with you though, just to show you what a clik can do indoors. I'm flying the blue, white, red and green frecce tricolori coloured one and a clubmate of mine is flying the white one with the red and blue 'sunburst' paint effect. 
 
Hi Jonathon,
 
Great link. What do you recommend as a power and battery for these? it's exactly what I'm looking for.
Steve
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Hi Steve
 
"Nice vid Jonathon!"  If its any help - this is my set up on the click 2 for very slow floaty fying and fast when you need it..
 
Motor - Brushless Outrunner XC2803/52 Nicolas Pietu replica (very light and very powerfull - quite pricey but you can probably find a cheaper alternative of the same weight and power. Others in my club have used cheaper and heavier motors on Clicks and cannot get  the same performance as mine.
 
Turnigy Plush 6A Esc
 
Loongmax Lipo 2 cell 7.4v 500mah battery (flight times 10-15 mins) I have used Rhino 3 cell 11.1 360 mAH Lipos - More Grunt - but not needed and shorter flight times.
 
GWS EP 8 x 4.3 prop.
 
Im using a bigger RX than I would like to - but the all up weight is about 140 grams.
 
Al
 
 
 

 

Edited By Alan B on 26/04/2010 11:29:57

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Cant really comment as I have never flown a micro-shockie. Looks good fun though. However a totally different beast to the Click 2. It is a lot smaller.  I would weigh up the pros & cons if you really wanted one of that type of model. ie extra costs - postage -servos etc. from hobbyKing.   If I recall - Robotbirds are doing complete microshockie packages. Might be worth a look.
 
I personally would stick with the Click 2  you wont be dissapointed.
 
Al
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sorry alan, i think the hacker A-10 15S is better than the pietu one as its cheaper, lighter and more easily available. It has plenty of power for unlimited verticle in my 145g clik. prop to go with it is the APC 7x4 slowfly which provides both excellent power and acceleration. the motor used to win ETOC 2009 i believe.
 
i use a pulso 11A esc originally suggested by angelwing (AW) designs who make the afriel and silent angel. i find power delivery to be very smooth and it never gets warm. its available very reasonably priced at www.pulso.co.uk
 
probably the best lipo i use is the thunder power 2s 350 lite v2, but flightpower 300 EVO20 2s's are pretty cheap at the moment if there's still many around. they're really light so best performance. i think 300-350 is best for lightness which is crucial, 500 i think is a bit too big. some people use 250s but i think this is too small and duration is poor.
 
servos and rx are also crucial. use good quality servos with JST connectors to work with the superb spektrum AR6300.
 
thats all for a clik or similar. the best micro shocky IMO is the eflite ultra micro 4 site. i have one and they're absolutely brilliant. love flying mine, look for my 4-site thread on indoor for details.
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