Luton Minor + Sep 2010 free plan

[Chris Bott - Moderator]

Arron there's a few methods for transferring from plan to balsa.

Two I have used are:-

a) good old fashioned carbon paper between plan and wood, then draw around the item on the plan, thus transferring the outline to the wood.

b) place the plan over the wood, hold it still and prick through with a pin, especially at corners of straight edges which can be joined with a ruler afterwards. Curves have to have pinholes spaced all around them..

[Chris Sessions]

Thanks for spending the time putting a materials list together Steve, that'll be a great help. 

 

I've never built from a plan before, although I have built from a kit.  The Luton Minor looks like a nice little project to get me started.

[sparks59]

I usually photocopy the whole plan in A3 or A4 sections, whichever I can get done, the bigger the better usually. Then stick & cut out the ribs, formers etc on thin card (cornflakes box works for most pieces).

 

Once the pieces of plan are carefully taped together, I use the copy to build off. Then if it gets stuck, stained or torn, i'm not too bothered. 

 

Looking forward to seeing how you guys progress with this great little plane.

sparks

Edited By sparks59 on 17/08/2010 13:26:52

[Arron Davison]

Steve Hargreaves you are a little Star iv always wanted to build from a plan but was a little worried about how to go about it? after reading your words of wisdom oh yea and your shopping list im off to the model shop for me bits this weekend like a excited little boy again cheers mate much appreciated!!!! Oh yea one more thing what material is B1 B2 B3A B3B B4A B4B & B5 made from i cant find it anywhere thanks again and i will keep you informed.....

[Steve Hargreaves - Moderator]

Arron, I trace the parts from the plan onto card & then cut out card templates. I use these to draw around onto the wood with a soft pencil or Bic biro....doing it this way allows me to make use of the existing straight edges of the wood...if you lay the plan over & trace directly onto the wood its very hard to see exactly where you are in relation to the edge.

 

I usually get the plan copied at Protaprint o avoid messing up the original & this can offer another alternative....place the plan over the wood & use a warn iron to "iron" the plan onto the wood (set the iron to "Wool" that should work) This will transfer an image onto the wood but can also warp your wood if you're not careful........the card templates work best for me!!!

 

B1, B2 etc will be fine made from hard 1/8 balsa.....I might make the firewall out of 1/8 ply but thats just me.....note on the plan it talks about cross laminating the firewall.....this means cut two firewalls but have the grain vertical on one & horizontal on the other.....amazing how much extra strength this adds...

[Arron Davison]

Thanks mate thats a great start, thanks for the tips i will let you no how i get on

[Arron Davison]

Quick question steve that false trailing edge is it ment to be 1 1/4 or is it just a 1/4 strip? & where is it on the plane?? thanks matey..

[Steve Hargreaves - Moderator]

Hi Aaron.....the false trailing edge is the bit that actually sticks to the rear of the wing ribs...its called a "trailing edge upright" on the plan (bottom left of the wing plan....the outer ribs section drawing). This is the bit you will attach the aileron hinges to!!

 

I call it a "False" TE 'cos it is!!! The "Real" TE is at the back of the ailerons.......

 

This is where there is a bit of ambiguity for me.....at the root this piece is 1/4 x 3/8 or 6mm x 9mm if you prefer but it tapers down to 6mm x 7.5mm at the outer ribs & this matches the TE section which suggests that the underwing sheeting DOES NOT include the ailerons.......this would be OK if you could taper the section but it seems to me that there will need to be a step change in thickness between the inner ribs & the outer simply because the underwing sheeting isn't there........

[Foamie Dave]

Hi Fellas ,

 

 

Cheers for putting the list together Steve, greatly appreciated, Ive been a bit busy at home so not had much chance to visit the forum recently...nice one mate

 

Heres a copy of one I sent to someone a few weeks ago, however just  like you say projects are often made up from whatevers available so its definately not comprehensive, but should be enough to get going.

 

2 off 36" x 4" x 1/16" Balsa Sheet
2 off 36" x 3" x 3/32" or 1/8"  Balsa Sheet
2 off 36 x 3" x 3/16" Balsa Sheet
1 off 36" x 1/4" x 1/4" L/E Section
1 off 36" x 1-1/2" x 3/8" T/E Section
1 off 36" x 1/8" x 3/8 Spruce Section
12 " x 12" 1.5mm Liteply
4 off 3/32" x 3/32" Balsa Stringers
Balsa Block Pack (JD Perkins)

Hi Miroljub, with regards the contruction pics, I always put some "home made snaps" in my gallery, however its a logistical nightmare to do them for the magazine as they have to be studio quailty. Alex (Whittaker) is my nearest snapper, but as we live over 100 miles apart it means me taking a day off work for every picture or making half a dozen planes in various stages of build 

 

Hope these pics explain a few things

 

http://www.modelflying.co.uk/albums/member_albums.asp?c=33715 

 

 

Back on the build , the only major stressed points are the cabane fixings. Dont skimp the material near those and you'll be fine. Use whatever material you have to hand and adapt to fit. Half the fun with these is you can really make them your own, dont be afarid to mod or do what you see fit as you go , as long as it dosnt deviate to far or weaken the structure.

 

 

Again big thanks to Steve , Sparks and anyone thats helping out. ..cheers guys

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited By Foamie Dave on 24/08/2010 08:03:52

[Foamie Dave]

 

For those that coulnt find the album here are some of the build pics (and a few more flying shots). The proto might be very slightly different to the finished plans but it'll give you a good idea how it goes together

 

Hope they help a little 

 

[Misha]

Thank you, for the pictures Dave.

 

 

 

[Foamie Dave]

No problem Miroljub, glad to help

 

 

 

 

 

[Guest]

Nice flying shots -I really must build another Eric Fearnley Luton Minor - only 50 odd years since I built the last one courtesy of the free aeromodeller xmas plan

 

john

[Tedder]

I agree also with Ron and Simon. Balsa is very expensive, you need to buy enough, but not too much. Tedder.

[Tedder]

Looks like we are going to build the Luton Minor in great numbers, I shall be building one this winter for sure. Tedder.

[Steve Hargreaves - Moderator]

Glad you could join in this thread Dave....you can't beat having the designer on hand when you have a question......great to have the pictures available too...

 

Which brings me very nicely to a couple of points I'm not clear about!!!

 

1, Does the bottom wing skin extend under the aileron TE section? The plan seems to say no (its not shown in the outer ribs section) but I think it would be much easier if it did..

 

2, In the plan article you talk about "scoring" the wing skin....is this on the outside of the skin to allow for some "give" in the balsa when you raise the wing tip for some dihedral?

 

3, The fuselage formers seem to have concave sides....is this just an error in the printing of the plan...concave fuz sides would make covering..er..interesting

[Foamie Dave]

Hi Steve,

 

Life is a little hectic at the moment so apologies for not showing up earlier.

 

1) On my prototype, the skin covers the entire bottom surface of the wing  (inc TE centre section) but not the ailerons themselves. My ailerons came out a fraction thinner than the wing, but not enough to justify skinning then removing most of the material back off again if that makes sense. If your's looks best with the aileron TE sectioned skinned , by all means go for it , half the fun of plan building is giving it a bash and tweaking as you go. 

 

2) Yep, thats exactly right. By cutting a  scoreline, the balsa should crease without snapping, then run a seam of glue into the crease to strengthen it. I scored mine on the inside  for a neater finish but it wont make to much different either way, just remember the seam of glue afterwards regardless of which side you chose.

 

3) The fus formers are very slightly concaved ensuring a 90 deg join to the fus base (maximum wood / wood surface contact). Use a straight taper if you want, just make sure you get plenty of glue at the join where the sides meet the base section and base stringers. The sharp corners get sanded away so you want to ensure good adhesion all the way along the base of the fuselage, especially near B2 and B3 due to the local stresses caused by the U/C and cabane structures.

 

Hope this helps (and makes sense )

 

Dave

[Bob Black]

Hi to you all

I have just started to build this great looking little plane  (from the free plan)

I have managed to locate all materials and have most of the fuz  completed,  one small item I am unable to find in our local shops or on the net after several hours trawl is tail / wing skids,  (Radio Active part No.AA1355) for main cabane fix.

Radio Active Mfg is trade only of course.

If anyone knows where I can get a pack I would be most grateful.

 

Regards and happy flying.

 

Bob

[Foamie Dave]

Hi Bob,

 

I got mine from Leeds Model Shop

 

http://www.modelshopleeds.co.uk

 

Its not shown on the website but if you give them a ring they should sort you out....theyre a great bunch of fellas, always very helpful!

 

Give em a call on 0113 2646117

 

 

 

Edited By Foamie Dave on 02/09/2010 21:14:20

[Bob Black]

Hi FD

Thanks for the reply and info.

Will give them a bell tomorrow

 

Thanks again and Regards

 

Bob

[Terry Whiting 1]

Dave,

 

Very nice little model, great pictures.

Would you mind answering a few questions.

 

1.What covering did you use?

2. What was the AUW (RTF)?

3. Was the balance point as per plan?

 

Regards    Terry

[Foamie Dave]

Hi Terry,

 

Thanks for the compliments 

 

I used Oracover (Profilm) on mine. Its a pretty easy model to cover but I found it easier doing it in smaller sections throughout the build  rather than all at the end.

 

I think mine came in around 25oz. Ive also flown it with bigger (heavier) batteries and it still flies nicely so dont worry if you go slightly overweight, its just wont fly as slowly or as manouverable as a lighter model.

 

Yep balance point as per plan (1/3 chord) 

 

 

[Terry Whiting 1]

Dave,

Thanks for a prompt reply.

 

I was about to start covering and as Profilm is my prefered covering

I just wondered about excess  weight  on such a small model, but you

have set my mind at rest.

 

Terry

[baza]

Hi this is my first model aeroplane have completed the wings ok but looking at the plans for the fuselage it looks like it ends at the B1 fire wall and a separate cowling to cover the motor but on the photos it looks like the motor is encased in the fuselage. Any help would be appreciated. 

 

Thanks

 

Baz 

[Reuben Kinghorn]

Having just finished 3 builds in the last 6 weeks to get ready for our summer season (New Zealand) I thought I could have  a rest.....

Then I brought the September copy of RMC&E...... looks like I'm off to buy some more balsa

The Luton Minor looks perfect for those calm summer evenings!

-Reuben