Danny Fenton Posted June 5, 2014 Author Share Posted June 5, 2014 That would be great John, don't worry too much about pics as another modeller got loads when he was there, in fact it was his pics that you were seeing showing the pipes. I do need the diameter of that exhaust tube though. I will need to remove a tube shaped section from the bottom of the nacelle to accomodate that pipe. Might have been wise with hinesight, to have the nacelle bulkheads drawn to allow for the missing tubular section Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted June 5, 2014 Share Posted June 5, 2014 I'll take some picy's of Chippy then, don't go claiming my colour scheme though John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 At the widest point it measures 190mm and at the deepest it's 135mm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted June 10, 2014 Author Share Posted June 10, 2014 Thanks John, not very round any more is it, poor thing....... Going by your numbers and looking at the pics, it must be around 150 or 6" in old money? Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 It is a bit odd Danny, its hard to believe it was ever round. Is it the one u/c failed on ? I can go in work clothes next time and get my arm in with some callipers John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted June 10, 2014 Author Share Posted June 10, 2014 Thanks John I am assuming it was round at some time, looking at other pics I have of er.... better kept examples it looks round. The other side although painted red looks round? Picture further up the page.... Thanks a lot for taking the time, really appreciate it Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted June 10, 2014 Author Share Posted June 10, 2014 This even more decrepid Apache airframe clearly shows the tubes, and they look fairly round to my eyes Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ton van Munsteren Posted September 25, 2014 Share Posted September 25, 2014 Looking forward to a maiden Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted September 25, 2014 Author Share Posted September 25, 2014 Got a bit distracted....... However as of yesterday, apart from wheel hubs, the Hurricane is now finished. That gives me until next Wednesday to finish the Apache LOL Cheers Ton Edited By Danny Fenton on 25/09/2014 09:02:03 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon burch Posted September 25, 2014 Share Posted September 25, 2014 Danny, I read your comments about planking and the idea of shaping the planks with regards to the distance around the former. If the planks are going from narrow to wide and then back down to narrow, how do you determine the curve on the sides of the planks? Not sure if I'm explaining that well enough, but I've just recently had a go at doing some planking, just using narrow parallel strips, but you end up with a few odd little wedges here and there. It went well, but I'd be interested to hear any more tips. Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted September 25, 2014 Author Share Posted September 25, 2014 Hi Simon, I haven't tried it myself yet but I have seen it done on a forum thread somewhere. The idea means that you don't end up with little wedges, every piece fits. I am doing a Chipmunk as part of an online build you may have seen the thread "Chip Shop"? Anyway I am going to use the technique on the fuselage of that just to see how well it works. The chamfer, on each planks edge, if that's what you mean? should be the same on each plank and could be calculated, I think its probably sufficient to guestimate Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon burch Posted September 25, 2014 Share Posted September 25, 2014 Danny, The chamfer bit I'm happy with, really locks the planks in place and reduces the gaps. I wish I could remember where I read you comments on the planking. I'm sure there was a sketch showing an individual plank starting narrow, widening nearer the centre an then tapering back down. I understand the idea of how to divide up the length around the former you are planking to determine the width of the plank, but the sketch showed a curved edge to the outline of the plank.............I was wondering how you would create those curves and still expect no gaps? Here is my first attempt, but I didn't taper the planks. As I would only be transitioning between two formers, the planks would just have straight chamfered edges. This was the front where I tried using a bit of taper on the planks. Didn't get the spacing spot on, but definitely less wedges towards the end. I'm pretty happy as it was my first go at planking. Built a lot of models, but it's a technique I've never used. I'm building a Hawker hunter at some point which uses a lot of planking, so this has been great practice. Cheers, Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted September 25, 2014 Author Share Posted September 25, 2014 Well done Simon, looks like you have pretty well got the nack, if you end up with wedges its not the end of the world. The Apache has a an awful taper and I am doing it the old way, ie ending up with wedges but I will try the method I mention in the magazine on the Chipmunk. This next shot is for Ton, see still working on it, the last nacelle is very nearly planked Hopefully finish the nacelle this evening Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris larkins Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 Any updates Danny? I'm getting withdrawal symptoms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 15, 2014 Author Share Posted October 15, 2014 Hi CA I am rather imersed in a Chipmunk build at the moment, but some Apache did get done. The nacelles are fully sheeted and sanded. The retracts are back in and opening cut. I wont bother with doors for the test flight. I have made an elevator joiner and sorted the linkages, I am just fighting with the rudder linkage, there is very little room in thr tail, and of course they both want to be in the same place! Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Clayman Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 Danny, I could not help but be pulled into your and Ton's Piper Apache project. I am most interested in reviewing Ton's Rhino files...my aspirations are to bring it up to around 130 inch w/s or there about. I have a CNC mill and am considering milling an .stl after slicing and dicing it into 3" thick component sections. Is there a composite .stl with the regular Rhino output file? Ed Clayman FliteMetal.com Across The Pond ;^) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted February 11, 2016 Author Share Posted February 11, 2016 Hi Ed, good to see you frequenting our forum Sorry I haven't got back to you sooner but must have missed your post and am just getting back into the Apache.... I must confess I do not have the files, I did lots of 2D work on the drawings in Turbocad, the subsequent Rhino files are all Ton's work. I do know that we would like to publish the plans one day, and there may even be a kit produced by Rob of RBC kits as he has put a lot of time in as well. I am going to try and pick up where I left off with making plugs so I can vacform the cockpit side windows. If you want to follow along you can find the continuation of the build here Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 The return of the APACHE ,a welcome return Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Price 2 Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 Amaze me some more Danny!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted February 11, 2016 Author Share Posted February 11, 2016 Thanks Chaps, as I say the build will continue on RCSB...... The photo uploading here is just crippling me in time, RCSB is much quicker..... Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Price 2 Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 Won't let me register, or, when I did, they won't recognise my user name password combo. Guess I'll have to have another go. Computers!! Mutter!! Mutter!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted February 11, 2016 Author Share Posted February 11, 2016 Hi Andrew, if you get stuck send me a PM and I will send you Mike's email addy he is the guy that runs the site. I appreciate some of you will be quite happy to just watch which is free but does require you to register. Posting does require you be a paid up member, well worth it if you really like to build. So if you want to use this thread to ask questions then please feel free. Cheers Danny Edited By Danny Fenton on 11/02/2016 18:36:00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Price 2 Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 Thank you Danny. I'll try again - when I'm in my more normal good mood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted February 11, 2016 Author Share Posted February 11, 2016 LOL yes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted February 27, 2016 Author Share Posted February 27, 2016 The foam plug was glassed primered and sprayed with gloss paint from a rattle can. It was then given 5 coats of release wax. The MDF box was filled with herculite and the plug weighted down to stop it floating! The waxing worked as the plug popped out of the mould with no damage. Unfortunately a couple of blemishes crept in, possibly due to insufficiently mixing the Herculite, need a stirring paddle for the drill! Need to wait for this to dry thoroughly before waxing and filling with Herculite to give the final plug that will be strong enough to withstand vacforming. Cheers Danny Edited By Danny Fenton on 27/02/2016 20:50:52 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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