Delta Foxtrot Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 Posted by Allan Bowker on 29/03/2015 12:49:07: David You probably have worked it out by now that when making the female end (socket) you do need to be mindful which way round the wiring goes. This is mainly due the fact that the plugs are keyed, so they only fit one way into their socket and the sleeve that goes over the plug (to make it a female) also only fits in one direction. Take a look at a manufactured piece as a guide to the wiring, look at your other successfully wired components in other models or in your box and check/test alignment (and then check it again for the second time!). Making up the male side is easy to follow, however the female side can be trickey if you haven't properly checked which way round everything is going to clip together. Allan you are correct it it the female end that I am trying to understand. It is difficult to remove the sleeve that goes over the female end and so hard to see which way up the plug has to be inside. I am still not sure what the answer is without having to cut off the outer sleeves on some ready made extensions and that seems like a waste. I could not find anything on you tube or Google that shows the femail plugs wired up without the outer sleeve on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delta Foxtrot Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 Thinking a bit more about this I guess my question really should be about which way up are the locking slots for the male and female plugs when connected together? My guess is that they are both the same way up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allan Bowker Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 I stripped one open for you, hopefully this picture helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Chaddock Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 I must agree with Dave H - although my reasoning is a bit different. Servo lead extension plugs and sockets add weight for no performance benefit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leccyflyer Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 Posted by Simon Chaddock on 29/03/2015 16:55:15: I must agree with Dave H - although my reasoning is a bit different. Servo lead extension plugs and sockets add weight for no performance benefit. An aileron extension lead is a must for a removeable wing fitted with ailerons, whether it's a single extension, multiple extensions or a Y lead. Repeatedly making and breaking the connection at the receiver itself induces unnecessary hassle and wear and tear on that connection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delta Foxtrot Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 Thank you very much Allan, very kind of you to do that. I am sat down crimpers in hand having a go at this. I just need to sort out how the housing fits over the female plug now and I am sorted. I had a pair of the Hansen delux crimpers sent over from the states. A bit pricey with postage added, but they do a really great job. Thanks again Allan Dave Edited By david fillingham 1 on 29/03/2015 17:17:16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delta Foxtrot Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 Posted by leccyflyer on 29/03/2015 17:05:12: Posted by Simon Chaddock on 29/03/2015 16:55:15: I must agree with Dave H - although my reasoning is a bit different. Servo lead extension plugs and sockets add weight for no performance benefit. An aileron extension lead is a must for a removeable wing fitted with ailerons, whether it's a single extension, multiple extensions or a Y lead. Repeatedly making and breaking the connection at the receiver itself induces unnecessary hassle and wear and tear on that connection. And for flaps, spoilers etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delta Foxtrot Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 I managed to sort out the femail plug slide on cover. Looks like there is a tab inside to lock this in place using the feature that locks the individual pins in place. It is straightforward and helped by having good tools to do the job. The CK 95001 wire stripper from screwfix is an excellent tool as is the crimper from Hansen. The pins slide nicely into the plugs when using this crimped unlike the ripmax crimper I started with. Edited By david fillingham 1 on 29/03/2015 18:02:03 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 Posted by david fillingham 1 on 29/03/2015 17:22:39: Posted by leccyflyer on 29/03/2015 17:05:12: Posted by Simon Chaddock on 29/03/2015 16:55:15: I must agree with Dave H - although my reasoning is a bit different. Servo lead extension plugs and sockets add weight for no performance benefit. An aileron extension lead is a must for a removeable wing fitted with ailerons, whether it's a single extension, multiple extensions or a Y lead. Repeatedly making and breaking the connection at the receiver itself induces unnecessary hassle and wear and tear on that connection. And for flaps, spoilers etc And soldering in an extention piece of servo lead doesnt alter that in any way! Cut the lead from the servo to its plug, solder in a length of wire, one end to the servo, the other to the plug you just cut off (or if you want to Y lead them - join both wing wires to one plug - which goes into a lead from the RX) less added weight, removal of one point of failure - cheaper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeS Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 This a great help and good video. will make life much easier to make my own. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leccyflyer Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 Posted by Dave Hopkin on 29/03/2015 18:09:59: Posted by david fillingham 1 on 29/03/2015 17:22:39: Posted by leccyflyer on 29/03/2015 17:05:12: Posted by Simon Chaddock on 29/03/2015 16:55:15: I must agree with Dave H - although my reasoning is a bit different. Servo lead extension plugs and sockets add weight for no performance benefit. An aileron extension lead is a must for a removeable wing fitted with ailerons, whether it's a single extension, multiple extensions or a Y lead. Repeatedly making and breaking the connection at the receiver itself induces unnecessary hassle and wear and tear on that connection. And for flaps, spoilers etc And soldering in an extention piece of servo lead doesnt alter that in any way! Cut the lead from the servo to its plug, solder in a length of wire, one end to the servo, the other to the plug you just cut off (or if you want to Y lead them - join both wing wires to one plug - which goes into a lead from the RX) less added weight, removal of one point of failure - cheaper The lead into the receiver, in the cases mentioned, is an extension lead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delta Foxtrot Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 Posted by leccyflyer on 29/03/2015 18:36:57: Posted by Dave Hopkin on 29/03/2015 18:09:59: Posted by david fillingham 1 on 29/03/2015 17:22:39: Posted by leccyflyer on 29/03/2015 17:05:12: Posted by Simon Chaddock on 29/03/2015 16:55:15: I must agree with Dave H - although my reasoning is a bit different. Servo lead extension plugs and sockets add weight for no performance benefit. An aileron extension lead is a must for a removeable wing fitted with ailerons, whether it's a single extension, multiple extensions or a Y lead. Repeatedly making and breaking the connection at the receiver itself induces unnecessary hassle and wear and tear on that connection. And for flaps, spoilers etc And soldering in an extention piece of servo lead doesnt alter that in any way! Cut the lead from the servo to its plug, solder in a length of wire, one end to the servo, the other to the plug you just cut off (or if you want to Y lead them - join both wing wires to one plug - which goes into a lead from the RX) less added weight, removal of one point of failure - cheaper The lead into the receiver, in the cases mentioned, is an extension lead. As for removing a point of failure I am not so sure, with thin gauge servo wire there is the potential for failure where the soldered joint ends. I have soldered in extensions in the past and not had a problem and would probably do so again if I needed to, but I am not so sure that this is a better solution than a crimped extension with a locking device to ensure that this does not pull apart. I would be interested to know what others think about this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 Having suffered from soldered joints causing fatigue failures and corrosion in '70's servo leads now I try to avoid any soldered joint in a harness, especially where it will be inaccessible. I'm much happier with a crimped plug and socket connection and some form of secure lock, either a turn or two of tape or a commercial lead lock. I do extend servo leads by soldering, but only on small foamy types where I want to bury the join in the foam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 Soldered joints are by definition rigid therefore if subjected to any vibration the wires leading into the joint either side need to be supported to prevent fatigue working into the point where the wire enters the joint - good close fitting shrink wrap will also help but should not be relied on to control vibration I have seen perfectly good solder joints last for 60 years plus in radio sets so the integrity of a joint is dependent on the environment its placed in and the quality of the solder joint Equally a fatugue stress prone point exists there the wire enters a crimped joint if there is vibration present and the connector allowed to vibrate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delta Foxtrot Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 Dave, Given that the wire is also clamped over the insulated part I think fatigue failure of the wire itself is not likely, though I would hesitate to say impossible. I think crimped joints must be pretty reliable given the exceedingly large number of them out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.