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Make your own servo extensions


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I know many people still buy servo extension and "Y" leads and many models call for these to be used. However, finding the right ones, at a sensible price in just the right length for your particular needs can be frustrating, not to mention expensive. I just spent an hour or so making up various harnesses for my data logger - see below.

Fancy learning how to make your own ?
They will not only be every bit as reliable as the ones you can buy ( arguably better ) but also in the exact length and format that you need . Its really not that hard, as long as you follow a few principles, and use the correct tools and procedures.
Some of us on the forum here have covered this procedure before
Here, and also HERE - but I dont think we did a video, so I will make up a tutorial video later today, and this will show you just how easy and rewarding it can be.
Servo cable is available at about 60p a metre for good quality silicon stuff, and plugs /sockets @ around £1 for 10 pairs.
Meanwhile.... here's what you will need.

Good quality ratchet style crimping tool - a bit pricey but will soon repay its cost - DONT be tempted to use a cheapy one. The one I bought about 10 years ago is still going strong. The place I bought it from seems to no longer stock them ( Ashtek ) - so you will need to google around - the torque / ratchet style automatically sets the correct force, and prevents the connector from being crushed by releasing the jaws when the crimp is complete.
 
Automatic Wire stripper / cutter - cheap and available widely try Maplins
 
Small side cutters or needle nose pliers
 
Small jewellers flatblade screwdriver
 
Servo wire - and connectors (male and female pins and housings - these usually come in complete packs).
 
Right..... off to the garage to try and cobble together a video later.
 
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Posted by Tim Mackey - Administrator on 22/02/2011 14:30:36:
I usually get my plugs and sockets and cable from HobbyKing - normally buy around 100 at a time - and 10 metres of cable.
 
 
Thanks, will get some.
 
 
I have six orders waiting for them to recover from their new year, they seem very slow the last couple of weeks.
 
 
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Make your own extensions - this is what I normally do - as I never find the right stuff. Either the available extensions are too long or too short or they have only Futaba or they are using 0,75mm2 copper conductors in silicone insulation - which is a bit much for my small electric planes. I don't use servos which need half a power plant as a supply.So I normally puchase 3core cable in 5m and some bags of connectors (I don't have the same budget as Timbo )
So making your own extension will also help you to reduce the cable mess in your model - as you always make them exactly in the length needed (I hope...)
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If I'm wanting to extend a servo I measure how much longer it needs to be and simply cut the servo lead midway and splice in the required amount of extra cable of the correct type.When I say splice in I mean hardwired with solder. I only use extra connectors where absolutely necessary ie at joints for wing servos etc, as I see it every connection is yet one more point of possible failure.That said I'm sure many will find your thread invaluable Tim
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Simple lengthening or shortening of servo cables may well be accomplished with the methods described above - however, there are times when this is simply not satisfactory - especially for us leccy fliers who like to play around with data logging and so on - trying to establish servo current draw on retracts that utilise separate batteries, or UBEC PSUs and so on - many of these scenarios call for plugs and sockets which can be used to insert measuring sensors and so on. One of the main reasons I use crimping is for Ashlok connectors which I use a lot of - especially for wing connections - they are so much better and easier than multiple servo sockets. This is an example of a 14 way Ashlok on a wing to fus connection - it carries power to 2 x aileron servos, a retract air-valve servo, and electrics for flashing machine guns and landing lights - all on one simple locking plug.

The wing....

 
Ashloks HAVE to be made up and crimped as they all come as component parts.
 
Where a regular servo plug and socket is deployed, then I use a simple clipover lock like this.

Another case is where a lead needs to be shortened, for I am real fussy when it comes to radio installation, and hate bunching up great long servo leads in tight fuselage spaces - in these cases, I prefer to cut the servo/ esc / ubec lead etc to the exact length required, then refit a new servo plug rather than splice - I actually find it quicker than soldering 6 connections and heat-shrinking etc.
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I have found the Multiplex plugs useful for all the connections to the wings.
 
Didn't need more pins, as the wings had to come apart anyway.
 
Here on the Twinstar, the power leads and the servo/ESC leads are connected to a Y piece when the wings are joined, so there is two plugs to join when putting the wings on.
Each Multiples plug carries the aileron, ESC and flaps fort hat wing
 
 
 
 

And on the Funcub, one was enough.
 
The loose wire on the wing normally stays connected to the receiver so there is only one plug to deal with taking the wing on and off.

Edited By Steve W-O on 22/02/2011 17:30:37

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Posted by Phil Cooke on 26/02/2011 10:01:12:
Tim where did your automatic wire stripper come from? - not seen one that does 3 wires at once before like that - that was very flash! Excellent vid btw.

Edited By Phil Cooke on 26/02/2011 10:01:25

 
Phil, the place that martin refers too above also has the wire strippers mate HERE

Posted by martyn sharp on 26/02/2011 09:49:19:

How about these will they be any good
 
Martyn

Yup...look  the same version - not a bad price either, however, hard to tell from the picture alone if they will actually suit the connectors we use - perhaps best to email them to check - they often use removable jaw sets, so it may be a case of just asking for the right jaws IYSWIM.

Edited By Tim Mackey - Administrator on 26/02/2011 10:47:56

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