J3hne Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 Hi Richard, Thanks for the tips on ballancing. All seems a bit daunting. Not got any Balsaloc can I use Clearcoat or Sanding sealer? Cheers john Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koen Smits Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 My blades befor covering. After covering, they are black at the top side and white at the underside. In the square is a small piece of oracover glued, neccessary to get the weight equal again. All 4 blades are 48 gramm after covering The blades i sanded in a jig as Andy Nash shows some posts back. Picture of my sanding jig. Control rods as they are on mine. Picture from the blade balancer Aldo i extended the nose, to get the lipo in the batterybox, with 3 cm. I have to put aproxx. 190 gram lead behind the motor to get the Panther balanced. To save weight i used already 4mm balsa for the rudder, The uppersides 2 mm instead of 3mm To balance i use a scale and some math to find the CofG at the moment of weighing and the with a little math you know where and how much weight you have to ad or substract. Koen Edited By Koen Smits on 20/03/2013 17:34:03 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVE MATTHEWS 2 Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 Hi Rich, thanks for the advice, good job I asked!! Better get sanding then. Did I read somewhere about an auto-gyro fly-in this summer, that would be fantastic for us newbies. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big T Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 Posted by John Elkins on 20/03/2013 17:18:01: Hi Richard, Thanks for the tips on ballancing. All seems a bit daunting. Not got any Balsaloc can I use Clearcoat or Sanding sealer? Cheer John, I use spray on polyurethane varnish on the light blades to get them up to the same weight. After covering check the c of g again and, choose the blade with the balance point nearest to the root and balance the others to match. I add insulating tape to get the baalance correct. If you then find a blade that is lighter than the others then add tape to the c of g. Thats how we used to balance wooden heli blades back in the day! Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big T Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 Posted by Malcolm on 19/03/2013 23:12:03: If you want the rods as vertical as possible, then another factor which determines if the rods are vertical is the hole used in the servo arm connecting the rod. I randomly chose hole 4 (from the servo inner) and it looks like I'd need 50% rated down travel to get the correct movement, so as I finalize the setup it looks like I need to halve the mechanical movement (or a bit less to allow for any changes after test flight), Which Servo holes did the flight tested models finish up with? Malcolm I used the outer holes on both servos, and -10% expo on roll and pitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted March 20, 2013 Author Share Posted March 20, 2013 Posted by John Elkins on 20/03/2013 17:18:01: Thanks for the tips on ballancing. All seems a bit daunting. Not got any Balsaloc can I use Clearcoat or Sanding sealer? John, You can use what ever you like, balsaloc is just an example of what I use. I am sure clearcoat or sanding sealer will be just fine. David, Yes there is a fly-in this year up at Winterton, it is a good weekend and very very friendly. We always seem to have mode 1 and 2 pilots who are prepared to test fly others models. It is nothing too serious just a friendly get together of like minded fools. Of course if anyone does fancy a ride to the midlands I am quite prepared to test anyones model and give the new gyronut a bit of guideance and of course a go with one of my models if they so wish. Rich Edited By Richard Harris on 20/03/2013 19:39:19 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVE MATTHEWS 2 Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 Rich, look forward to that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 rich--think its time you and your family had a hol up here in the north east..... ...soon as i get the panther completed......and ready for a maiden....... ken anderson....ne..1 ..... holiday dept.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Whiting 1 Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 Rich E, I hope you don't mind me asking, but fitted to you mast is that a plastic gearbox normally fitted to a 400 can motor? Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted March 20, 2013 Author Share Posted March 20, 2013 Ken, Its only 4 hours away, I could come up for the day. Would need a crash course on how to speak and understand your language though Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jose L. G. Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 Hi Koen. Can you post any pics of the jig for sandind the blades. I didn`t undertand fully the system. Thanks in advance. José Luis G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koen Smits Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 Hi Jose Luis, On page 22 of this tread Andy Nash posted a couple of pics from his sanding jig, they where clear enough for me to make use of the same principle. I used for the sandingblock only ply, it's better to use ply and aluminum as Andy did. Koen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Elliot Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 Terry, well spotted, it is the front half of a can motor reduction gearbox with a 4mm output shaft. I use them on most my autogyros incuding my Rex XL which weighs nearly eight pounds. Although I have broken almost every part of an autogyro in my time, I have never had one fail and some of them have 200 plus flights on them.CheersRich. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malcolm - coolwind.co.uk Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 Tim, Sometime back you asked about completed weights, I'm on final assembly now and the total weight is coming out at 1.7Kg without battery, so that will add another 300g. Malcolm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big T Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 Malcolm, that sounds bang on, mine is 2.1kg, the one I tested was over 3kg so that's why it felt heavy for the blades. Yours and mine are Silly Film I think his was solatex and p45! Tim Edited By Big T on 21/03/2013 13:40:20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Whiting 1 Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 Rich E, I have at least 8 of them from when I changed a couple of my multi engined models from cans to brushless. Pleased to hear they have done you proud, and still doing so. To think once they were almost in the bin..............I must have known. Terry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 hello terry/richard...do you know anywhere(uk) that sells the gearbox's you mention please....thankyou... ken anderson....ne...1 ....panther production works n/e dept..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bass Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 Rich E Ref your 21/3/13: 11.30 post. Delighted to hear that you have found 4 mm shaft boxes OK. I have got a Multiplex 600 gear box with a 4 mm output shaft which I was thinking of using, what do you think? Forgive this, probably ,stupid question, but do you use a normal friction prop driver to hold the rotor on or do have to thread the shaft and use lock nuts? I made my first post on this blog back on page 15 but haven't appeared since because all my questions are being answered before I ask them! Thanks to this I am making good progress and really enjoying the build. Regards to all Barry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 I have been thinking about the bearing assemblies used from gearbox type applications. I suspect that they are primarily designed for radial loads, rather than thrust. I am not sure that it matters, in most cases. It is perhaps worthwhile examining the arrangements , just to satisfy yourself, that there is not a potential problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Whiting 1 Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 Hi Ken, I got mine from 'FANFAIR' electric model supplies' Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 three cheers for young terry......i've just replied to your PM....thankyou...... ken anderson....ne...1 ..... TW1..... fan club member... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malcolm - coolwind.co.uk Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 Posted by Erfolg on 21/03/2013 18:03:08: I have been thinking about the bearing assemblies used from gearbox type applications. I suspect that they are primarily designed for radial loads, rather than thrust. I am not sure that it matters, in most cases. It is perhaps worthwhile examining the arrangements , just to satisfy yourself, that there is not a potential problem. Erfolg This issue came up on the cranefly thread sometime back. At that time I looked up the spec of a 3mm ID bearing, it was rated at 300N radial load and 75N axial load, so i dont think there should be any worry. These bearings are also used with axial loads on every brushless motor draging your plane around the sky with the prop pulling on the weak" axis Malcolm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Nash Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 Posted by Bass on 21/03/2013 17:11:36: I made my first post on this blog back on page 15 but haven't appeared since because all my questions are being answered before I ask them! Thanks to this I am making good progress and really enjoying the build. Regards to all Barry Hi Barry. Glad you are enjoying the build. Now the cat is out of the bag we would like to see your build. Pics please mate. Regards Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 Malcolm I think that 75N is about a mass of 8kg, in what passes for English money. If the model has a mass of say 2kg, there seems to be a Factor of Safety of 4. In reality it will be lower, may be 1.5 or even less. What causes me to be conservative is that looking at the shaft size that experience dictates, i would have thought that under a static load, 3mm dia shaft would kill the duty. The reality seems to be that +6mm is required, due to dynamic and bending forces rather than the static load indications. In practise, i guess it will not cause any problems, perhaps other than higher wear than anticipated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted March 22, 2013 Author Share Posted March 22, 2013 Erfolg, I think the biggest danger to our bearings and shafts is an inbalance of the rotating assembly. This has happened to myself with a 4mm shaft snapping in flight and also to a friend whose top flanged bearing collapsed. This was early on in my autogyro adventure and caused purely through my blades being out of balance. Something at the time I thought would be fine. Always worth that extra bit of effort to get the blades balancing to the best of the individuals ability. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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