Galaxy Magician builders

[Andy48]

You mean a bit like like this? Just finished building this one.

This is an electric Magician. The fuselage has been reworked with a completely different arrangement for the landing gear.

Pegasus models supply many of these Galaxy models now and ought to be able to get you a cowl.

[Roy Mundy]

[Roy Mundy]

Here's my electric version ready to maiden.

ive modified the undercarriage and brought the cockpit forward a bit.

regards

Roy

[Hugh P]

I changed my U/C to blocks in the wings - so much better.

Can be seen on my web page

http://www.hughp.co.uk/html/magician_galaxy.html

It really is a great aircraft, great low wing trainer.

HughP

[Lee Smalley]

why so much better, just to clarify the u/c fixing method in the Magician is bomb proof if made correctly and you will destroy the model before you rip the u/c out.

it is a great model, i must get myself a mystic next year

[D for Donald]

I recommend the Mystic, it's brilliant with a 90 2 stroke - thought it is on the big side for transportation. The price keep creeping upwards however. Hobby Store and Pegasus Models both charge £118 for it now - though curiously Pegasus is a little cheaper if you want a Magician.

[Paul Marsh]

Mine's almost ready. Will take a photo later.

[Andy48]

Posted by Lee Smalley on 13/12/2014 13:33:48:

why so much better, just to clarify the u/c fixing method in the Magician is bomb proof if made correctly and you will destroy the model before you rip the u/c out.

...except for a leccy model, there is not enough room for the lipo with that undercarriage arrangement.

[Hugh P]

Lee

Personal choice and from experience I guess. Nothing but trouble with the first one, perhaps my landings are smoother now 20 years on! Does not change the flying characteristics, I just think it's a great all round aircraft.

[Paul Marsh]

Mine's now finished...

[D for Donald]

Very nice Paul. The red detail on the canopy looks good.

[Buzz]

Doing some mods to mine during it's winter refurb.

I was thinking of changing the tail end to a V tail. Are there any benefits of having a V tail & would it fly any different to the standard design, plus, I was also thinking of converting the tail to that of the Merlin / Warlock, with fins/rudders on the ends of the stabilizer rather than a central fin & rudder.

What are your thoughts between the two options ?

[David Murray 3]

Hi All - I Just started building a magician and I have decided to go the electric route. Its my first build but so far so good. I am however a little unsure which motor to go for - based on one of the previous posts I have tried to find something similar on HobbyKing and have narrowed it down to these 3

Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 3548- 1050kv

Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 3548-840kv

Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 4240-740kv ​

I'm intending to pair one of these with a 65a ESC and a 4S battery both of which I need to purchase. I want the model to have enough power for acrobatics and good vertical climb ability. Which would be the most suitable motor do you think ?

[Andy48]

My electric Magician has the SK3 3548-840kv with an 11x7 prop in it. Max current is just over 40 amps with a 3000 4S battery. It would make little difference using the 1050kv version.

The SK3 is a really nice motor, much quieter than the Emax BL range, and quite robust too.

[David Murray 3]

Many thanks Andy - I have a habbit of buying the wrong motors - i have a drawer full so good to know what others have done. How did you mount it? Did you build a mount box or just some standoffs onto the firewall and how well does it balance out for CofG with the 3000 4S - i was hoping to get a bit more capacity in the battery to be honest maybe 4500.

[Andy48]

I modded my Magician by putting a horizontal tray towards the lower part of the fuuselage and remaking the formers and having a different arrangement for the legs. The block for the latter is glued to this tray and also forms the front mount for the wing. The rear of the wing also bolts to the tray and the servos are mounted on it.

The motor simply mounts in front of the bulkhead with a few standoffs to ensure the prop clears the nose cone. The ESC mounts under the tray at the front, and the receiver mounts under nearer the back. The fuse top was modded as can be seen to reveal the battery compartment.The white velcro in the middle is for the GPS module if I fit it before flying.

As can be seen the 3000C battery fits perfectly, and the model balances well with no weight added.

Not sure why everyone always wants to put a much bigger battery in. It will do most things on 1/2 to 2/3 throttle and still give an easy 10-12 min flight. Adding extra weight of a bigger battery (which probably won't fit anyway) means a heavier plane which needs more power. I normally fly for 8 minutes and usually land with the battery still at half capacity. At that rate you would be able to fly for about 20 min on a 4500C battery.

Yeah! I know, the hot glue is a bit messy. Must do something about it sometime.

[Geoff S]

Personally I'd always go for the biggest, most powerful motor that'll fit. Weight isn't a problem in an ic to electric conversion and better to have a weighty motor that's under run with a smaller prop than a lighter motor running at near its maximum and added lead.

I have that Turnigy 4240 740 rpm/v motor in my Ballerina ( 2.3kg/5.2lb IIRC). It's as recommended initially by BEB. It draws 30 amps on a 12x6 from a 4S LiPo. I fly it with that now but I had a 13x6.5 prop fitted initially which drew 40 amps, I think. I use a Turnigy Plush 60 amp esc. Stacks of power and energy to spare for decent length flights.

Even then I've had to push the 4Ah LiPo as far forward as possible to get the CoG right and I still have around 40% left after 8 or 9 minute aerobatic flights with a couple of touch and goes.

Geoff

[David Murray 3]

Thanks guys - Yes i think power in reserve is always nice! Wishing i had seen the mods before i had glued the fusalage sides together! Its likely beyond me for my first build anyway. I think i will mirror your setup with the SK3 3548 and a smaller battery than i was thinking. I will try and do something similar with the tray. The bigger capacity was because i have 5 batteries for my current model (Riot) and i always seem to run out even after a recharge from the car battery.

I like the idea of the removable top for access im guessing stuffing it into the tank area would have the C of g too far forwards - will have to think about the layout a bit now and get some bits ordered. I seem to spend more time trying to plan this out than building at the minute. Im also thinking of some more beefy landing gear im sure the wire is adequate but just looks a little weedy but then again its light i guess..... too many decisions! and i havent even begun to think about servos theres at least a week or research there i rekon.

Edited By David Murray 3 on 10/10/2016 21:21:19

[Andy48]

Ah yes, I did make stronger landing gear come to think of it!

Its very easy to fly electric on full power all the time, and the battery will go down in no time at all. You'll never notice any speed difference flying at half throttle but a lot longer battery life. Opening the throttle fully with the setup I've used gives near vertical flight. Take off is half throttle.

BTW, gluing the wings together needs to be done very carefully and before you put the leading edge strip on. Its easy to build in a twist here. I used Gorilla Glue for this and a lighter wing bandage, and fitted 2 smaller servos in the wings.

[David Murray 3]

Thanks for all the advice so far - its coming along slow and steady.

A few more questions - you mention to be careful not to build a twist into the wings but is there a way to line them up easily - its tricky with the dihedral as you cant lay them flat so is there a simple way to do this whist they are glued up? I think I will go with the 2 servos in the wing also as they are 22g MG digitals with 3 kg torque I have bought so should fit ok and it means I don't have to hack out the centre of the wing join so that should be stronger.

Also I have bought some snakes from slec but I'm not sure how to fix these - I was thinking of using a tie wrap and epoxy to support the outer sleeve in the middle of the fuse but not sure if I also need to fix the ends or is attaching to the control horn and servo all that's needed at the ends?

[David Murray 3]

Finished - Well apart from ironing down the bubbles in covering for the fifth time - I'm sure there's a knack to this I haven't yet found to stop them re-appearing. This is my first attempt at a balsa kit build ignoring foamies that I started out on.

I have copied Andy's setup with the motor and battery etc and swapped the landing gear for some a club member had spare. I gave the motor a quick blast in the kitchen seems to have tons of power on the 12x6 prop I best check the amps I think!

Thanks for all the advice - I just need some good weather to fly it now - cant wait!

[Tony H]

Looks good, great plane this is. Builds well and flys even better. Well done

Edited By Tony H on 31/01/2017 20:59:21

[GONZO]

Bubbles in covering film - prick with the point of a small sharp sowing needle(finer point than a pin) then slowly iron down bubble working towards hole.