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All things SAS wildthing


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I think you meant "get the BEER" out Matthew. I like your style, just lob it off with no battery. It'll probably fly better anyway, that if I was in nominal control.
 
Tim - I am now going to refer to stuff as "things" as in "I need a thing to fit in my thingy that'll make that thing there work". This will make me sound far more intelligent I'm sure
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Question please
 
The elevons on my 50" Wildthing are warped a little, is there a way that you straighten them or is it a case of find a for sale sign and make new ones, the reason I ask is that I took it out for a flat field test glide today and it veered of to the left quite a lot, I had to put in a fair amount of right stick, but upon close inspection I noticed that I could make out a screw in the end of the left wing1 1/2" No. 8 self tapper, I have now removed this and I will give it another chuck again tomorrow, any help would be great!!
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Yeah you do - a pushrod connects your servo to the moving surface i.e. elevon, and M2 is the metric size of the pushrod. The kit is very well designed and you'll find there's room for eveything. It's the length of the servo arms you should keep an eye on - too long and they will bind with the inside (bottom) of the fuselage.
One top tip - follow Alan's instruction where he gets you to hook up those pushrods and check all is centered and working BEFORE you stick the fuz on. Once it is on you can't get to the servos, pushrods or clevices, making adjustment near impossible. Ask me how I know...
Oh, and make sure those servos are centered before you stick them in for the same access reasons. Select a new model memory on your tranny, centre all the trims and sticks, and switch it all on. Pinch the battery and Rx out of one of those trainers to do this!
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Thanks Matthew.. will do. So I guess I need to consider lopping off a bit of the servo arm. Should the servo body be flush with the wing root with just the arm clearing it? If so do I need to pack "under" the servo body as it doesn't go all the way into the mold?
 
I'm going to need to post a picture aren't I?
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Here y'go Alex
 
Here's the hatch and switch location. The switch is just above my thumb. Just cut a rectangle out of the side of the fuz and double-sided tape it in. Make sure forward is ON so if you knock it when launching you don't turn it off. Again, ask me how I know...!
 
Here's inside the hatch - use a bit of velcro to hold it shut (thanks Timbo!). You can just see the Rx, with a bit of string around it should it need to get it out, and the charging lead waiting for me to ready her for combat!
 
 
Here's the back end. You want the servos to give you this sort of distance between the the pushrods, although it's not crucial, as long as they don't bind with the inside bottom of the fuz.
 
 
This is what Alan means when he suggests routing the aerial down inside one of the elevons. It goes down inside the fuz, out the back and into one of the flutes. You can just see the orange wire that is my aerial - unless you go 2.4 that is.
 
 
No reason for this pic other than showing how beat up your WT can get, and still fly. There's at least 3 layers of tape on there - at some point I might take it off and start again, but it flies just fine as it is. I'll wait until it has some of your red tape on it!


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