Spice Cat Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 Not being a chemist but what is the difference (if any) between Elapor and EPO. And is it so different from the packaging it's delivered in?? If not, why is it so expensive????? Questions, questions, questions. It's winter; must keep occupied. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seamus O'Leprosy Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 Elapor is a trade name (multiplex) and basically the same as epo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Ashby - Moderator Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 Graupner call it SolidporHorizon (Parkzone etc.) Z-foamArt-Tech - EPOFlexy Great Planes - Aerocell and so on....there can be subtle variations in foam density from model to model, manufacturer to manufacturer but it's all good ol' EPO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 And mulitplex.... Elapor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seamus O'Leprosy Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 Catch up Tim! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 That'll teach me to not just read the latest post and not the earlier ones Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mowerman Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 I expect the reason for the high cost of EPO models is mainly due to the design and production of moulds and other tooling. Back to the early days of plastic kits (Revel,Airfix, etc) I remember reading that the mould costs were in the order of £10K whilst the actual plastic used for the kit cost pence. Perhaps a reader who is currently employed in the plastic moulding industry could do a write-up on the subject? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seamus O'Leprosy Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 I think you have covered all the interesting bits already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_B Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 Posted by Spice Cat on 12/02/2012 22:08:27: Not being a chemist but what is the difference (if any) between Elapor and EPO. And is it so different from the packaging it's delivered in?? If not, why is it so expensive? Expensive compared to what? There's a misconception that just because a plane is made of ''foam'' that it needs to be very cheap. Like has already been mentioned, the moulds are extremely costly to produce and this financial outlay has to be recouped some how. If you compare the latest Chris Foss ARTF Acro Wots, the built up version is about £126 and the foamie is about £135. Although the foamie is slightly smaller, it does come with all servos, motor, ESC, prop etc, where as the trad built ARF doesn't and in my book that makes the foamie version significantly cheaper. Another question then; Which is more enviromentally friendly, a wooden kit or a foamie?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codename-John Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 Expensive compared to what? There's a misconception that just because a plane is made of ''foam'' that it needs to be very cheap. Like has already been mentioned, the moulds are extremely costly to produce and this financial outlay has to be recouped some how. If you compare the latest Chris Foss ARTF Acro Wots, the built up version is about £126 and the foamie is about £135. Although the foamie is slightly smaller, it does come with all servos, motor, ESC, prop etc, where as the trad built ARF doesn't and in my book that makes the foamie version significantly cheaper. Another question then; Which is more enviromentally friendly, a wooden kit or a foamie?? you`d still have tooling to make i expect for kits, the dies for cutting parts, programming the laser cutter etc plus the labour for building the ARTF, with the foam you have 1 lackey at the beginning of the line inserting carbon rods, wood bits etc, press a button, bish bash bosh couple of seconds injecting the foam, out pops a plane. And "environmentally" wood comes from trees, foam comes from chemicals Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spice Cat Posted February 19, 2012 Author Share Posted February 19, 2012 I prefer the wood version as most of my models are recycled as firewood!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myron Beaumont Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 Still hesitant about which glue to use to attach the tail surfaces on my EasyGlider (Elapor/Epo).I've tried tests on poundland /"toolbox" superglue ,UHUpor and have some BELI-ZELL 10 min and 20 adhesives.I tried getting info on the Beli stuff but unfortunately don't understand german.UHUpor seems to work quite well but not having any scrap pieces to really test on ,all I've tried is the end of the rudder locating lug stuck to the inside of the canopy - approx an area of 1cm X 5mm.Which would you experts advise please . I'm a bit cheesed off with having to research all these (new to me) products but afraid to use the wrong stuff .Another headache I see forthcoming is to fasten the lipo over the wing internally so that I can get it in and out .It says mount the Rx in the front directly behind the motor.Never put an Rx in front of any heavy battery before! Help put my mind at ease so I can get it up sooner rather than later and might survive unexpected arrivals . Myron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 As I mentioned yesterday, Myron, normal medium cyano and kicker is recommended. I used it on mine about 3 years ago and it is still fine (apart from when the dog kicked the fin off on landing) and even then it was the foam that broke and not the joint.......... It's the kicker that's important - using cyano alone doesn't seem to work. Apply the cyano to one side, the kicker to the other and the job's done You haven't much choice with the battery position, so 'Use the Force, Luke', believe in your flying abilities and if you still have an arrival with the EG sufficient to mash the Rx with the Li-Po, you'll have done very well, believe me! It is a pussycat, take my word for it!!!!! Now stop fretting, stick it together and get it up there whilst there's a bit of summer left...... Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myron Beaumont Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 Pete Only one problem ! I havn't any "kicker" and apart from driving about 60 miles round trip I was wondering about the glues I do posess Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TinPot Pilot Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 Myron, one thing not mentioned is that there is a release agent on the surface of the foam which helps prevent sticking! Wash the areas you want to stick first and let them dry and you will have fewer problems. Uhu Por is also good used as a contact adhesive ( if you don't want to use cyano ) but will slow down your build ,waiting for it to dry, and you only get one chance to get it right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 Ah, no kicker......have you got a hot glue gun, or some Gorilla Glue? As TPP says, you only get one shot with UHU Por and it has to be used as a contact glue to work. The 60 miles is a pain - much easier and quicker to order online from one of the quicker suppliers and wear the postal charges, or make the order worthwhile. Could be there by Wednesday.... Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myron Beaumont Posted August 14, 2012 Share Posted August 14, 2012 Pete Job done with Belli-Zell .Incredible stuff that I was given by Ashers some time ago to test .It's more like a welded joint than anything else I can think of .Now to programme my Futaba 6EX 2.4 GHz to include spoilerons & differential on the ailerons .A job for 'er indoors tomorrow .Am putting the FrSKY TFR6 Rx in the hollow in the underside of the canopy .It's so small . Myron -foam & electric newcomer dept. Quite impressed actually ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted August 14, 2012 Share Posted August 14, 2012 That's more like it! Differential is essential on the EG - the downgoing aileron is very draggy. I have about 1/3 of the upgoing throw on the downgoing, IYSWIM..... Spoilerons - don't put too much to start with and put in a little up elevator, as without it, it comes down very quickly! Gain a few hundred feet before you try it out for the first time...... Looking forward to the maiden.... Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL HUTCHINSON 2 Posted November 4, 2020 Share Posted November 4, 2020 Guys any ideas on what glue to use to stick the motor mount and front of the Wot4 FoamE with, had a bit of a heavy landing and broke the front of the plane. I know to use the Foam to Foam glue for the foam parts, but what to use to stick the metal motor mount to the Foam with? Thanks for your help Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Stephenson Posted November 4, 2020 Share Posted November 4, 2020 Posted by Myron Beaumont on 14/08/2012 19:30:55: Pete Job done with Belli-Zell .Incredible stuff that I was given by Ashers some time ago to test .It's more like a welded joint than anything else I can think of .Now to programme my Futaba 6EX 2.4 GHz to include spoilerons & differential on the ailerons .A job for 'er indoors tomorrow .Am putting the FrSKY TFR6 Rx in the hollow in the underside of the canopy .It's so small . Myron -foam & electric newcomer dept. Quite impressed actually ! I checked this stuff out but it doesn't seem to available any longer, this could be why... "Contains diphenylmethanediisocyanate, isomeres and homologues. Follow the manufacter´s instructions. Harmfull by inhalation. Irritating to eyes, respiration system and skin"... Isocyanates have been mentioned as harmful on the fuel-proofer thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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