Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 Good idea Colin - I'd be interested in that too. BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 Ok WF and BEB, done it! I hope it's interesting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flugfan Posted December 30, 2013 Share Posted December 30, 2013 Howdy - I bought the complete mass build kit in time for Christmas 2012 and have spent this holiday trying to finish it. One problem is that the canopy seems very "generous" and I wonder if I have been provided with a canopy for the bigger span Tucano rather than the Mass build version. Does anyone have a mass build version that still has its surrounding moulding and can compare?. The bulkheads (cockpit front to cockpit back are about 260mm - the canopy moulding is about 340mm. Its also about 5mm too wide all around the sides. Suggestions please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim C Posted December 30, 2013 Share Posted December 30, 2013 I suspect it is just fine, see my pic of finished canopy inside the uncut molding, just trim the ends off and drop it over the balsa framework, mark up and trim, its all a bit oversize, but trims up fine Edited By Tim @ ModelMarkings.com on 30/12/2013 15:30:23 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted December 30, 2013 Share Posted December 30, 2013 Yes I think Tim is right - I seem to remember there being a lot of "overhang" on mine too. Get out the manicure scissors and do a bit of trimming! Even trimmed it was wide and I had to tape it down to fit. BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Winks Posted December 30, 2013 Share Posted December 30, 2013 Tim and BEB are both right there is a lot of wastage in the canopy moulding Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flugfan Posted December 30, 2013 Share Posted December 30, 2013 Thats Fab Thanks Chaps. (And lovely detailing there Tim!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Hardy Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 Hi All, remember me!! I have almost finished the build - bit late I know, I have one query the Tucano exhaust stubs. The use of 10mm copper tube bend fitting has been mentioned on this thread but I cannot find any reference can any body help please. Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Winks Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 Posted by Mike Hardy on 13/09/2014 13:38:27: Hi All, remember me!! I have almost finished the build - bit late I know, I have one query the Tucano exhaust stubs. The use of 10mm copper tube bend fitting has been mentioned on this thread but I cannot find any reference can any body help please. Mike. Hi mike I started by trying copper but ended up with 10mm plastistuct tube bent using a low heat gun with a bending spring inside the pipe to prevent kinking, this was because I wanted to keep the nose weight down as my battery is as far back in its tray as it can go, Which reminds me now I have my 'A' I must dig the tuc out and start work on my 'B' maybe early next season eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 Mine are just made from rounded balsa cut at an angle then joined. The ends were then hollowed out. See my build thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Hardy Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 Thanks Phil (congrats on your 'A' and Martin, do these stubs need to be hollow to aid cooling of the motor? Will post some pics prior to covering. Can I ask all you Tucano master builders to keep on eye on this thread as the next operation will be to cover and no doubt will be asking some questions as to which technique to use. Regards, Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Winks Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 An eye is being kept Mike, as for the exhausts being hollow, not really the cross section is fairly small and will add little if any to the airflow through the motor bay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 Mike, for covering look under `2013 mass build - Martin`s i.c. Tucano` for tips arround page 29. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Hardy Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 Tucano exhaust stub I have taken some scale dimensions: comments please. Stub dia 17mm Stub length 34mm Position back from nose 96mm Wish me luck! I will try and make a pair from balsa Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Winks Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 I couldn't possibly comment on the correct scale size, However it is a stand of scale model so if it looks right and your happy with it then it is right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Hardy Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Hi all, I am now in a position to cover the airframe (better late than never!!). I plan to use the Battle of Britain memorial flight colour scheme which means a paint job. As I see it (you master builders may differ) I have two routes - tissue and dope or fibre glass and PolyC. My preference is the tissue route because I have used this method many times. Some master builders on here have used the PolyC - I have the stuff but need to be convinced it is the better method. Your comments please. I am not a master builder so please be kind on the photo comments!!! Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Winks Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Nothing wrong there Mike looks just like mine before covering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Mike You may wish to consider an alternative quick method if you want to paint your model which is to cover with silver Solarfilm first. This is thicker and much easier to apply than the other colours. No need to rub down afterwards, just coat with Primol and it is ready to finish with Humbrol or Spectra. The concave and other difficult parts could be tissued after filming the rest possibly. I have done this several times and it works. The design will be able to take the extra weight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Looks very good Mike. I used the tissue, paint and dope route for mine and it would be my personal choice again for this build, also you've used it before. However there's nothing wrong with the alternative Poly-C or Ezekote and glass-cloth route. Both methods can be associated with warping though, so you need to take precautions on the wing in particular. The tendency is reduced with the tissue and balsa route I think by using sanding sealer before putting the tissue on to minimise the amount of dope which is drawn into the wood when the tissue is applied. The water based resins are probably worse because they take a lot longer to dry and warping might not be apparent until this process is completed. Some of our colleagues in the forum might be able to offer you better advice, but this reflects my experience so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Winks Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 If you are going the tissue/dope route, and I can't see why you wouldn't, I'd agree with colin, several light coats of sanding sealer 1st to reduce any danger of warping those wings, That said I'd say there's not a vast chance of this happening but always best to be safe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Mike, note Martin's advice as well. I haven't tried that one but I've seen it done and bought some Prymol to try it when I can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Winks Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Just one question on silver solarfilm isn't metallic ? if so there will be a need to route your Rx antenea outside the fuselage to prevent any possible shielding effect, A bit of a throw back to 35Mhz days I know but prob more relevant to the higher frequency 2.4Ghz based systems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Hi Phil, It does not appear to be metallic and have used it on 35mHz with an internal antenna. I did the wing of my 1:5 Hurri with stuff from HK believing it to be similar but it turned out to be actual alloy and polyester to boot which did not take the paint very permanently. I fitted a couple of remote Rx`s well away from it just to be sure. The Solarfilm method is similar to what Tony Nihuis does but he uses Easycote which requires rubbing down first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Winks Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Fair comment Martin its not a product I have used but saw that it could've been the case safer to ask than assume as that just makes an ass of U and me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 It's a good point that Phil makes, I think it's come up before and I'm sure we were advised that silver solarfilm is one film that doesn't have a metallic content, whereas most of the others do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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