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Peter Miller's new design


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They say that large models fly better so I thought that I would try a quarter scale model. One that anyone could build. Mind you, at the moment I am not sure how it will fly.

This will serve as a build blog should anyone decide to build the plan when/if it comes out!

Start off by cutting out most if the parts..

Lay down the lower sheet and cap strips of the wings and the bottom spar.

Add the ribs, aileron spar, aileron leading edge and the aileron ribs.

Close up of the aileron.

Lay the fuselage side down and add the three middle formers, make sure that they are vertical.

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I'd love to build a big un too.. Must be easier to get the bits within tolerance..??

I could do the wood, but I bet you use alot of glue compared to a smaller model..

I'm mostly put off by the cost of the power system.. Would have to be Leccy, and that'd be ££££, so i'm sticking to 3s size for now..

Looking forward to watching yours go together..

What is it by the way..?? I thought a bipe, but no mention of 2nd wing.?

Tiny Ailerons.. ?

Luv

Chrisie.. xx

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Or is the wing build so far just showing the flaps that Peter referred to as ailerons ? in that case the Playboy would seem to be a strong contender.O n the other hand maybe the wing tips have dihedral in that case it could be a JODEL .

Tom.

Edited By Tom Wright 2 on 02/06/2012 15:32:01

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OK Folks. Stits Junior SA-1 Full size was 8 foot 10" span but I have cheated and made it 30" span.

It will be over powered on a .25..

The exciting thing is...I just don't know how it will fly. The original was very twitchy.

I built two control line, one at 1/6th scale and one at 1/4 scale. They flew well.

Edited By Peter Miller on 02/06/2012 18:06:55

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Wow with an aspect ratio of around 3 ...I guess this one will have to be built light to offset the anticipated high sink as the speed comes off. If the roll sensitivity can be tamed I recon it could be a nice flyer . Well done Pete B for the ID it was certainly in the right stable thumbs up .

Peter this one qualifies for the something different category will watch with interest.

Tom.

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I can take no credit at all, Tom - I cheated a bit.......embarrassed

If you click on Peter's photos, the file addresses all end with 'stits xxx' - so I was reasonably confident of the make but not the model..........wink 2

Typically, I chose the wrong ones! teeth 2

Pete

ps I do like the Playboy, though..........

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Yes, I know that one, have even considered it. WE had a member who chose that as his first ever design for control line work. Flew well but needed a lot of power. I have a picture of it somewhere on the other computer.

Edited By Peter Miller on 03/06/2012 08:35:18

Edited By Peter Miller on 03/06/2012 08:35:46

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The basic fuselage has now been assembled.

Looking inside the nose you can see the undercarriage mount blocks from 1/4 ply and the block for the silencer recess.

This is the silencer recess, it allows the engine to be fitted flat instead of my usual angled set up.

The wings now have the top spar and leading edge fitted as well as the spar webs. The lower leadign edge sheet has been raised and glued to the L.E. and ribs. Also the ply reinforcements at slots where the aileron pushrod come out of the wing.

To be continued.

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Good progress since the last entry.

Fuselage taking shape

The turtle deck pieces are glued to the sides and left to dry.

Then they are wet on the outside and bent over to match the formers. You need soft sheet for this and a heat gun helps. The next peices are glued on and then formed in the same way.

The slot for the tailplane is made with 1/4" X 1/2. 1/8" sheet is added to form a solid slot with plenty of support and gluing area.

The engine is mounted and teh front of the cowl is glued to a spare spinner backplate. then the cowl is built up between F-1 and tghe front of the cowl.

This is the other side of the cowl

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The wing leading edge sheet and tip cap strips are applied to one wing only.

The completed wing is lifted from the board and joined to the second wing. The tip is propped up 2" for correct dihedral. R-1 of the second wing is glued in place now. this ensures that there is a perfect fit between the root ribs. The sheeting on the second wing is now completed.

The top centre section sheet is now applied. It is a good idea to install the aileron controls before dong this sheeting.

The bellcrank bays are sheeted on the bottom only. the slot is long enough to allow the pushrod to be inserted after covering.

This shows the completed wing. Just the end plates to do and tyhose are not fitted until after covering.

Tailp parts are very simple. The rudder is built up but could be soft sheet.

The fairing under the wing is just made from 3/32" sheet with the wing bolted in place

And so to two views of the basic airframe

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