Varnish and fuel Proofing

[Tony H]

Hi,

I just wondered if there are any off the shelf DIY Varnish I can buy in small pots to fuel proof my plane and seal it's exterior paint (I used Spectra Paint). Are there any available from Wicks, B&Q or Homebase?

[Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator]

You can use spirit based polyurthene varnish. But be careful - most of the stuff B&Q sell is the "water clean up" stuff, you want the "brushes to be cleaned in white spirit" variety. I've used this for ages and its a very effective fuel proofer.

The water based stuff might work - but I've never tried it and don't intend to whilst I can get the spirit based one!

BEB

[Biggestgerbil]

I always use Ronseal clear varnish. Have done for many years. It's available in gloss or matt.

I always thought Spectra was fuelproof? although I have never used it.

If I am not sure, I prepare a small piece of scrap in the same way as my model finish and apply the topcoat to that. If it crazes, melts or explodes, use something else.

Ioan

[Tony H]

Thanks Guys,

The Spectra Paint says it's fuel resistant not proof, I have it on another model and when I wipe it down at the end of flying my rag is often a similar colour to the plane. I have humbrol enamel painted some details on the plane so I want to fuel proof them too.

[Tony H]

Biggestgerbil

Is that Interior or Exterior Ronseal?

[Biggestgerbil]

Exterior.

In all fairness, the best thing is to get spray equipment and use two-part auto paint. But for pitys sake use a mask.

[Tony H]

Thanks,

Car Paint's are a bit pricey for my and I have no where to spray paint, it's brush on only i'm afraid.

Ronseal Exterior Matt Clear Varnish sounds ideal to me. I may get the Gloss version too for the other plane if it works well. In your experience it's fuel proof though? I hope so.

[Biggestgerbil]

Tony

I have never had a problem. This does not mean that you will not have a problem.

Mostly, I only ever fuel proof around the engine bay and associated parts. I went through a phase of using house paint (Dulux Trade, the runny stuff) but this is not particularly glow proof although it is OK with diesels. Funnily enough, I think that it is the oil that does the damage. When I used castor based fuel I had much less proofing trouble than the synthetic I now use. Mmm, I may start a thread.

BG

[Peter Miller]

I use Ronseal Polyurethane (Spelling?) varnish a lot.

I also use Aerocote but recently used it over Matt enamel and it wrinkled. Decidedly upset about that as it was over hand painted lozenge camouflage

[GrahamC]

Poly-C is glow fuel proof and water based - but it doesn't smell like Water based PU. My expereince with Wilkinson's water based PU varnish suggests that it is 'almost' fuel proof. Good enough for a hack, but use something else on your pride and joy.

Poly-C can be sprayed neat from a touch up gun and leaves a nice silk-mat sheen which is great for war birds. You will have to clean the gun from time to time as it will gum up, and you need a proper face mask.

I'm sure someone else can explain the chemistry, but Water based PU products seem to carry on hardening for weeks and months after application. My expereince with the the Wilkinson's stuff suggests that fuel proofing characterisitics improve with time.

[Steve Hargreaves - Moderator]

I like the two part proofers like Aerokote too but the Solarfilm Clearcoat is good too....about a fiver for a small tin....

[Bob Cotsford]

have you tried the Spectra or Flair branded gloss clear coats? That's what I use and it hasn't melted yet.

[Martin Harris - Moderator]

I fully agree with GrahamC's recommendation. The great thing with PolyC / SkinCrylic / water based floor varnish type products is that they're fully fuel resistant by the next day (maybe even sooner) and I've found that conventional fuel proofers need a week or more to acheive the same result - which is a shame because I can never wait that long - and have the soggy paint to prove it!

And they are clean, safe, odourless and easy to apply with simple clean up afterwards.

[Tony H]

Mr Miller,

Where have you used Ronseal Varnish on your planes?

[cymaz]

I have used 2 part epoxy resin on fire walls and then plugged the hole were the fuel pipes come through with silicone bath sealant. If you find that the mixed epoxy is stiff and hard due to the british summer weather we are having at the moment then a couple of drops of meths is good as a thinners. It does take alot longer to go off though.

[Guest]

I follow same practise as Cymax, but I use rubbing alcohol for thinning - this was the recommendation at the time I started using epoxy.

[Tony H]

cymaz,

I also use Silcone Tape Sealant a lot, not the white stuff to seal around the bath but the plumbers pure silicons to seal taps. I use it to glue canopies down and fuel tanks in positon it's better than so called "Canopie glue" which takes days to dry.

Tap sealant takes 30mins!