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Depron Spitfire


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Its been a long time since the Vulcan was finished and I have been wanting to get going with this project for over a year. As usual I will build as light as possible but I still want to add a bit of detail. It will be a mixture of 6mm and 3mm depron for the formers and 2mm for the skins. Hopefully it wont take too long to complete.

Glenn

plan001.jpg

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I messed around with the scale for a while and eventually decided on 88" wingspan which is more or less 1/5 scale. I felt this would best suit the power options I had in mind.

Bottom half of the fuselage has gone together well and I am trying to keep the back end as light as possible to help with balance later.

lower deck006.jpglower deck005.jpg

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Hi Simon, at the moment I am looking at tissue/pva finish to make painting easier and be a bit more ding proof but glass skin would add too much weight although I will see what the weight is like as the structure takes shape before making too many decisions

Glenn

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Oh Glenn, you're a god with Depron... All hail Glenn...

I presume the depron is white, if so, why do you paint it all black..? Not moaning, quite the opposite, it looks ace.. Is it to look less transparent..??

AND... How ,and what do you use, to cut the holes in the rear so neatly.. ?

I don't even try to pretend that my depron models are anything but depron, but you take foam to a new level.. Keep the pics coming..

Luv

Chrisie.. xx

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Hi guys,I will try to answer all your questions but if I miss anything please give me a kick. I dont mean to be ignorant but I do miss things.

Stu, as crazy as it may sound this is going to be a hand launched model so no flaps or retracts, I did consider the retracts but my flying field is rough grass and it would mean me taking off and landing from the lane at the side which would add more complcations.

Ian, power is to be a Emax 2826 running on a 4s 2200 battery.Should be good for a model up to 6 or 7lbs although my target weight is 5 1/2lbs

Chrisie, as Olly says it is indeed grey depron. I buy in box quantity to keep the cost down and grey is generally cheaper although the 2mm sheets I have are white as that was all I could find at the time.The lightening holes are cut with an assortment of copper tubes I scrounged from a local plumber.By sharpening the inside face they cut through the depron very easily.

Simon, thanks for the info. I had been intending to do a trial with the tissue to see if it would work but you have confirmed to me that it will be fine.I also considered brown paper but that has an added weight penalty.

Thanks again for the encouragment, it really helps when you are under pressure to put the model aside and do other jobs. I relly want to see this through as quickly as possible now. more pics later

Glenn

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g'day Glenn, I must say you are setting the real theme of adventure and the true spirit of flight -eg experimentation (now that is true scale) I hope other balsa boys will have a look, and a second look, your models and building style are something kit manufacturers should look at and i will be waiting for the next serving for sure. cooool maaan.

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Hi guys. I worked on the tailplane today so I could try out the 2mm sheet on a smaller part of the plane. At 25" it is still big enough to give me a good idea of its strength. I forgot to take a picture of the built up structure but it is pretty conventional. I did take a picture holding it up to the light as the white 2mm is fairly transparent so you can see the light shining through. With the skins glued on it is remarkably stiff and I now have no doubt that it will be plenty strong enough for the wings and fus.

Rex the plans were a download from here **LINK** although it is meant as a 42" balsa model it was easy to convert for my purpose

more later Glenn

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p6161071.jpg

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Interesting link, but I don't think I'm up to learning new software at the moment, I'm just getting my head around R/C in general and specifically new materials such as Depron and polystyrene.

id always considered these materials as the "toy" department, until I actually found out that they often fly better, are easier to work with and are much more robust.

Hence the interest in your work. I read the Vulcan thread with interest, but the Spitfire is amazing, and I want one

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Rex, my first sptfire which is the smaller one above was derived from the Tony Nijhuis 46" plan given away in RCM&E a few years ago. While the design was intended for ic motor and up to 7lb weight my depron version tipped the scales at 24oz and is still great fun to fly. Also it cost less than forty quid including motor and servos.

Simon, just like having an xray. Its great to be able to see the structure undenesth.

Erfolg, all suggestions are welcome. I will see how the airframe seems as it comes together before I decide which way to go with it. The Vulcan was painted direct onto the depron skin and beside a bit of hanger rash it hasnt suffered too much in a coupl of years flying so I am not too worried about it.

Started skinning the lower fus half and it seems to be going together nicely so far.

Glenn

skin004.jpg

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img_0569.jpg

Glenn all i can say is wow this build looks great, this is my md80 twin 40mm edf built from depron mine is skinned with 3mm depron witch is a little tough to curve on small diameters, as the fuse is only 80mm round, might have to get me some 2mm depron for eaiser sheeting. brett

 

Edited By Brett Jones on 18/06/2012 21:37:51

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I'm watching your build with interest Glenn. I've built a bit with depron - mainly small chuck in the boot pusher jets, but have wondered about building something much bigger. I'm especially interested to see your method of wing construction, so keep the photos coming!

(And I think my system is a bit fed up with balsa dust!)

I have a foam fuselage for a Wellington in the shed, and have not got around to the wings yet, and have thought about using depron rather than the XPS batts that I used for the fuselage. (It will be about 60 inch wing span.)

Can I ask where you found the 2mm Depron? Was it an online supplier?

I think I would be tempted to glass a larger project - have you tried the Poly-c stuff? It's very light and easy if a little slow to get a fantastic finish. [Lots of thin coats needed]

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