Flair SE5A

[Tony Read]

I picked up a second-hand SE5A quite a while back and only got round to flying it a few weeks ago.

It had a very tired OS 48FS and needed full throttle to stay in the air.

I've now put in an OS 52FS and have problems with the exhaust.

With the 48 there was a home made 90 deg manifold bend, a bit of silicon tube then the silencer. Another short bit of silicon tube had the exhaust out of the bottom of the plane. Trouble is that the first bit of silicon tube burnt out/burst on every flight.

I've fitted the 52 with a 90 deg bend from JE but still need about 25mm of flexi between that and the larger 52 silencer. I've run it up with a bit of silicon connecting pipe and yep, it as burst as well.

I could simply cut a hole in the cowl and fit the standard manifold pipe but this spoils a very nice plane.

Any thoughts about installing the 52 exhaust so that it is hidden away?

[heinkel]

Hi Tony, i fitted ASP 52 in my Flair SE5A , with a 90 degree bend from Just Engines, i was able to exit the exhaust straight down and out the bottom of the engine cowl with the aid of a short rubber exaust st

[Mark Powell 2]

Use heinkel's way. Four stroke engines run hotter than two strokes and silicon tube is no good..

[John Olsen 1]

You might be able to do something using a flexipipe. I used one on my Hangar 9 Fokker DVII to enable me to squeeze the exhaust system within the cowling. With a flexipipe and a four stroke, you probably don't need any additional muffler, although I provided mine with a simple box made from some 3/4 inch square tube from a hardware shop. There is a picture of that installation in my album. The flexipipes have a pressure nipple for the tank if you need it too. Mines a Saito but I think you can get them for OS as well.

Your OS48FS might be able to be rejuvenated too, depending what is wrong...have you checked the tappets? If it is worn out then it will depend if you can get parts.

John

[Tony Read 2]

Thanks guys!

The 48 silencer was mounted vertically, screwed to one side of the engine bearers. This necessitated the flexible coupling onto the engine which never lasted.

The 52 silencer is quite a bit larger than the 48, which is what is giving me the problems. If I fit the 90 deg elbow onto the 52 then the silencer I can incline the silencer down, but nowhere near vertical. It might just be enough to get one of those exhaust deflectors on, however. I will have a check.

No one seems to do short metal flexipipe, but if they attenuate the sound a bit then the 120mm flexipipe from Just Engines might fit the bill (does not appear to come with a pressure nipple though).

[Trevor Crook]

I had one of these years ago, powered by an OS40FS. I used flexi pipe from the engine to a length of brass tube that replicated the scale exhaust. This was slightly squashed at the end. The engine ran OK and was still pretty quiet. The one I fly now has a completely hidden engine and balsa exhausts - it's electric!

[Tony Read 2]

Had a tinker around last night and have just got enough space to get a bit of silicon tube on the rear of the silencer to divert it down and out through the bottom of the plane.

As an alternative I found this on the Ripmax site:

This high quality metal loaded silicone exhaust tube is capable of withstanding an incredible 350°C. The perfect choice for use in ducted fans, helicopters and other high performance applications. 11mm I.D x 6''.

Maybe this would enable me to put a flexi between the manifold and the silencer.

As a matter of interest how much tube can you add to the rear of an exhaust system before you run into problems with the engine? Would a long length increase back pressure and thereby over pressure the fuel tank if it is connected via a pressure nipple?

[Bill R]

Just had the same problem with an SE5A of unknown make. I bought a standard manifold plus coupler from Just engines. [not even a reply from those other people] I heated the original manifold up and tightened the bend to point straight back down the fuz. I assembled the manifold to the second manifold using the coupler and attached to the engine [after first removing it]. Once I replaced the engine, the silencer screwed in from the underside, just clearing the underside of the Fuz. Worked a treat.

Just engines helped me out with a similar great in cowl solution for a RCV 91 in my GP192 Cessna using couplers and manifold bends.

If I could get an image into this post I would show you the result.

[Tony Read]

Thanks Bill. A picture would be great!

[Mike Etheridge 1]

Interesting---I have just bought last week a second hand Flair SE5A from Julian of Chippenham. It was advertised on E-bay. I have not studied the SC 52 installation yet as I have been repairing my 1970's 'Easy Rider' following damage caused an engine cut-out and me opting for a downwind landing via the ditch at the end of our flying field. However when I get a chance I will photograph Julian's engine installation to add the pictures to this forum.

MJE

[Mike Etheridge 1]

Well that's the Easy Rider repaired so here is a couple of photos of the SE5 exhaust. I assume Tony you are looking to hide the exhaust beyond the installation as indicated below?

MJE

[Tony Read]

Yes Mike, that was the option of last resort. looks quite neat though.

[Paul Marsh]

I built mine over 15 years ago. Did the same with the exhaust running inside the cowl and down through the bottom. Flew the SE5a recently, but really needs a new radiator plastic moulding, as it came loose and the prop took out the radiator! Wonder if one can still get the moulding, or suppose I can make my own, not that hard.

[Ed Darter]

I did almost exactly the same as Heinkel, but the silicon deflector doesn't stick out quite as far.

I have an RCV58CD in mine and its fine, probably overpowered tbh. JEN right angle knuckle straight out of the engine connected to the standard 'pipe' that came with the engine, then silencer then silicone deflector out of the underside. Works a treat.

Paul - I built mine from scratch and the moulding didn't quite fit, it was relatively easy to build a front end from balsa and liteply though and actually it has its benefits in that having gaps between the louvres meant I could get plenty of air in to keep the engine cool.

Ed