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Flair SE5A electric conversion and build blog


JayCee
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Thanks for your prompt response .

I have a Turnigy .46 (670 kv) going begging which I thought I would try any idea of prop size?

This is my first attempt at a traditional build although I have built (sorry assembled) numerous ARTF's

Owing to a recent heart operation I'm grounded so I need something to keep me busy for a while.

Any suggestions for first traditional build would be appreciated.

JC

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If this is the motor you mean, JC, my first thoughts are that it might be a big on the big side for the SE5A, both weight- and dimension-wise. The SE5A has a longish nose compared with many WW1 types so you may not need that much weight at the front end. With a span of 51", I wouldn't think you have a lot of space to work - and the battery will need to find some room.

Something in the region of 13x6 for the prop? There's always the throttle, of course.......smile

Hopefully someone else can help out here..........teeth 2

Pete

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I agree with Pete that motor seems to big.

Have you had a look at this Electric Flight Database ? You should be able to get some idea of what's suitable from that.

The Flair Magnattila is comparable for power requirements. Mine weighs just over 6lbs with a Turnigy 3548/900 with 4s 4000, a 60A ESC turning a 12x6 prop. This pulls 31A for 460W at WOT & is bags of power for the model. Average current per flight is 21A which is good for over 10 minutes of aerobatics & stooging around per charge.

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I have recently been given the Flair SE5a kit and was considering looking for a E-flite Power 46 for it. Reading the above, I am starting to think that the Power 32 I already have spare may be suitable.

It will be a little while before I get round to starting my SE5 so I would welcome any info/ experience that you can pass on JayCee.

Alan

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OK, a bit more detail on mine. The motor is an E-max 2820/07, and the prop is actually a 12x6 APC clone. From memory, this motor is about 900kv, and pulls just under 40A, giving about 400W. This gives good scale performance for 8 minute flights on 3s 3000 batteries. By all means go for a higher power setup, you can always throttle down more.

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Hi Trevor/Danny
Got my Flair SE 5A kit today just starting to build the front fus section, still scratching my head regarding motor mounting and position, also battery access!
Also giving it a quick look there appears to be a lot of down and side thrust how did you accommodate that and get the motor so far forward?
Any pictures and advice would be appreciated.
Thanks JC
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Thanks Pete

Actually found that blog today and it helps a lot.

Tend to forget the Flair SE5A kit is about 20 years old , long before Lipo's and Leckie power became popular so have been unable to unearth any electrical conversion blogs.

it may become clearer as the build progresses, still hoping for some detailed pictures in case I can build the firewall with thrust angles at an early stage

JC

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Hi Chaps, not a very impressive method that I used I am afraid. I bought the airframe second hand and it had the conventional hardwood rails that you would expect. I made a bulkhead and mounted it true to the rails to maintain the thrust lines. using good quality aircraft ply and a strong epoxy. Not really proud of the engineering but it did mean it could be easily removed and converted back to IC if I sold it (which I did)

Hope that helps?

Cheers

Danny

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Thanks Danny
Now it all becomes clear, was wondering weather to instal the hardwood rails but now I realise that will give me my down and side thrust angles.
Hoping there will be room for a 4000mah 4S Lipo! How did you fix the battery access cover?
Thanks for all your help
JC
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Hi JC the cover was alligned with the fus by using a couple of tabs glued to the bottom of the cowl. The exhaust was attached to the cowl and came off with it.

Everything was secured using rare earth magnets. I always use magnets to hold covers on, even big warbirds, have never lost one yet.......

Hope this helps

Cheers

Danny

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Hi

Any thoughts on this as the motor

http://www.giantshark.co.uk/epower-2832-960kv-brushless-outrunner-motor-p-51.html

The Turnigy .46 is as you rightly said is going to be to big

also have a spare Hacker A30 10XL nice motor but only rated at 28amps!

The problem with the conversion is fitting a fire wall in place of the IC rails the fire wall position is to a large extent determined by the motor size there is a large amount of down and side thrust so really want to get it right first time!

JC

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