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Clean Sweep 60


Tim Hooper
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Looking good Tim.

Do you mind if I ask how you will ensure the holes drilled in the tailplane will line up with those nuts? Although thinking about it I guess a marked centre line and measuring would probably do it! Ignore me it's been a long day disgust
Have to say the 'outer' written on the spat made me chuckle, how I wished I had done that last time I made a pair of left spats
r.
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Robin,

You're right about the marked centreline on the tailplane, followed by undersized holes pierced with an awl. I then use the awls to centre the tailplane whilst I measured the distance from tail to wing tips. I'm within 2mm, so that's fine!

Yup, I too have made an identical pair of single-handed spas in the past. Hence the labelling....wink 2

tim

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Ah, tough choice this morning;

A day in the workshop, or take advantage of the windless, dry weather and head off to the field. Not easy, is it?

Anyway, I did do some more to the spats after I got back!

I find it best to work on both spats at the same time, and to mark exactly where I'm planning to saw and plane. First stage is to mark and saw off the front and rear corners.....

img_1593.jpg

....followed by the upper shoulders.

img_1594.jpg

A few minutes with a sanding block gives quite a pleasing result!

img_1595.jpg

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An exquisite work of craftsmanship. No that is not enough, it is also a work of art.

Perhaps it should not be covered. Or better still light glass cloth and WBV. Just letting the wood show through. Perhaps just a few vivid coloured wing stripes to aid orientation.

I seems a shame to risk it in the air. Maybe one flight, and then displayed, as a modern day piece of functional art.

It needs to be seen at the Manchester Model exhibition next year, particularly if RCM&E were to have a stand.

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I do not see a problem with a standard tail, as long as it is located on top of the side panels. It would be just out of the downwash, although there will be a little influence.

I think the biggest challenge from albeit limited experience is the sweep forward and orientation. Swept back seems to cause no issue, a straight wing is what we expect. When I have flown the smaller one, some observers have said that they thought it was going in another direction at times. As a model the small model is very good. As you suggest, a larger version should be better still.

My model has no undercarriage, i do not know if that is the reason that my model has a very flat approach. Getting it into the field, in some wind directions is more difficult than some models. As you cannot afford to be much more than 2 m above a hedge, if you want to land near to you..

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Gents,

I don't see a problem with fitting a standard tail either! Like Erf says, just glue it to the top of the fuselage sides, and fit a normal all-sheet fin on top. The only downfall I can see is that it'll probably be lighter at the rear than the T-tailed original, so you might want to relocate the fuselage servos further aft.

As for the colours, I'm going with the patterning of the original but with a different colour choice.  So the nose will be metallic green, the spanwise stripe will be dark green and the rear end will be a sort of goldish-silver.  Tim Calvert of modelmarkiings.com has already supplied the logos for the rear fuselage, so these should be available comercially - providing the model actually flies, that is.....

I got the CS60 on the scales this evening;

5S 4000 cell pack - 1lb 2oz

Servos (4) - 10oz

Airframe (inc motor, ESC, prop, spinner, wheels etc) - 3lb 14oz

Total so far - 5lb 10oz.

I'll need to add covering, rx and linkages, so I guess we'll be looking at an AUW of just over 6lb.

At the moment, with the cell pack as far aft as it can go without performing minor surgery on F3, and the servos dumped just below the pilot, the model is slightly nose-heavy when suspended at the 28% MAC mark.

tim

Edited By Tim Hooper on 10/12/2012 21:26:48

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10oz for 4 servos, which is 2.5oz a servo, that's more than I expected. My 'standard' (I assume you are using standard sized ones) servos of choice are smaller than standards (HS225BB's here) and they are 0.95oz a servo- so 3.8oz for 4 (if my maths is correct with these imperial units!). They would have plenty enough torque I think and it would save 6.2ozs!

Have you calculated the wing loading yet? Should be quite good I reckon!

CS

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CS,

To be fair, I just picked up the packaged servos and slung them on the scales.

I do agree that the aileron servos are probably over the top, but remember that the elevator servo has to operate a snake through quite a sharp curvature, and that the rudder servo is also linked to the steerable tailwheel.

tim

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For the snake curve, simple- just add a dorsal fin for the snake to run through with a much more gentle curve and use a lighter servo. The tail wheel problem is also an easy one to solve, use the rubber band method of attaching the tail wheel to the rudder and that way the servo will take little strain. Lighter servos, better flying performance!

CS

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CS,

You're a diilgent fellow, aint'cha? smile d

So a dorsal fin with the ele snake running up the leading edge? What a splendid idea! I'll file that one away for future use, if you don't mind.

Attaching the tailwheel with elastic bands, actually doesn't stop the servo from taking all the strain, but it does help damp out the sudden shocks. In the same way as the dampers on a car's suspension, don't take any of the dead weight of the car from the springs, but serve to soften the shocks.

Good thougts though, so keep them coming!

tim

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Thank you, great to hear that from such a great designer! I do try my best...

Feel free to use any ideas, that's what this forum is for! I was just thinking of the dorsal on my Domino which I need to build, and I thought of the elevator snake for a T-tail with reduced curve so I put the idea on here! The tail wheel method is well known, and as you say it acts like a shock absorber and if there is a big shock the band will break. I enjoy thinking up new ideas, all part of the fun of this hobby! Keep up the building, I want to see this one in the air!

CS

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Here's a couple of pics of the undercarriage. Made from 8swg wire, it's cold-formed (ie. beaten with a big hammer) into shape.

Experience has taught me than rather than worry about to much about the exact shape of the legs, the important bit is to ensure that the two axles are in line with each other.

Leaving the axles over-length by beginning the bending process with the centre bends, in the middle of the wire, does result in a bit of scrap at each end, but saves lots of faffing about.

img_1617.jpg

After I was satisfied with the general layout, I added a strengthening cross-piece - wire-bound and soldered into place. Incidentally, I'm using a 60 watt iron and ordinary lead-free multi core solder for all the joints.

img_1663.jpg

Here's a close shot of the axle end of the leg. The vertical part of the leg will fit into that recess in the back of the spat, No screws are used; instead I'll use silicon mastic between that brass plate and the spat itself, thus giving a fair degree of flexibility.

img_1665.jpg

Edited By Tim Hooper on 15/12/2012 21:05:42

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Some shots of the details....

The aileron linkage builds in some differential.

img_1682.jpg

The tailwheel is connected to the rudder with a rubber O-ring. Note the air exits.

img_1686.jpg

Inside the fuselage there#'s plenty of room for all the gear.

img_1689.jpg

Even with the wing in place, battery access is still good.

img_1693.jpg

Edited By Tim Hooper on 24/12/2012 18:55:03

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