Tim Hooper Posted November 15, 2012 Author Share Posted November 15, 2012 Thanks for the pointers gents! Danny, I'm hoping to push the plug into a pop bottle, and then use a heat gun to shrink it to fit. I like the idea of using a first-off as part of the mould though........ CDO? Not me mate! tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Jones Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 Tim , if you do not want to use a vac box ,which is very easy to make and can be made from off cuts , from B&Q , seriously use a vac box you will not regret it and once you have done one you will want to do all manor of things with it . I have not had a lot of success with the pop bottle method , but i have had good results from heating the plastic that you get a family size cake in . around the plug but it does need a helper . 1st off fit a rod into you're plug then put the rod into a vice so that you can push the heated plastic around the plug with both hands , you're helper will be there to heat the plastic with a heat gun while you fold and pull the plastic around the plug , you will need to wear work gloves and you're helper will also need a damp cloth to cool the plastic while you hold it in place . Good luck with which ever method you chose . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted November 17, 2012 Author Share Posted November 17, 2012 Corrrrrr!!!!!!!! I'm almost beginning to look forward to it now! tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 I always point people to this web site on making canopies Mikes. The gun method really works every time and is well suited to the one off . It is quick, using minimal and variable material. therefore economic.. Although commercial users would probably use the box method, being faster where lots of items are required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted November 17, 2012 Author Share Posted November 17, 2012 Erf, That's brilliant! Thank you. tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted November 19, 2012 Author Share Posted November 19, 2012 There's no point in trying to rush the planking process and do it all in one go. I do a few planks in a daily session, and let it build naturally. I'm using 1/8" planks; either 1/2 or 1/4 inch wide as needed. Oh, and lots of pins...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 I can see that you like planking. Perhaps you could also suggest that wrapping sheet over the bits is also possible. I dislike planking, because I am no good at it and it takes time. So I wrapped my smaller version of the CS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted November 19, 2012 Author Share Posted November 19, 2012 Erf, Good point! Just my point of view, but I like the way that the planking can start at the nose and follow a smooth contour right the way to the tail. tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted November 23, 2012 Author Share Posted November 23, 2012 The planking is complete and roughly sanded down. Mind you, there's lots of filler yet to come! It's important to keep inking in the hatch separation lines whilst sanding. If lost, they're really awkward to find again! You'll also notice that I've had a skirmish with making a screen for an open-cockpit version, for those who don't want to purchase a moulded canopy. Any thoughts? Incidentally that's a 1/4 scale pilot in there. Speaking of the moulded canopy, here's the start of the balsa plug. It's massively over-sized at the moment. No doubt that there's going to be a lot of sawdust produced in the near future.... Edited By Tim Hooper on 23/11/2012 20:57:00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted November 23, 2012 Share Posted November 23, 2012 I do like that open cockpit Tim. I also like the planking, looks like it should just be varnished Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Concorde Speedbird Posted November 23, 2012 Share Posted November 23, 2012 Yeah, keep the cockpit open, it'll have more character. I wouldn't even bother with a pilot, save some weight and you can put the switch in the cockpit so it is out of harms way. The planking is nice, looks like an old wooden boat! Keep up the good work! CS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 23, 2012 Share Posted November 23, 2012 Tim my CDO objects to the randomness of those planks, they should all be the same color! or at least a uniform pattern Seriously it looks really good, not sure I like the open cockpit though, its a racer Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted November 24, 2012 Author Share Posted November 24, 2012 Thanks lads! BTW Danny, look again at the planks on the rear fuselage. There's a definite herringbone thingie going on there.... CS, thanks for the validation for the open cockpit. It's just an idea that's been kicking around what's left of my mind. MInd you, I do like a pilot - and there'll be no switch on this model. One less thing to go wrong, right? tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted November 25, 2012 Author Share Posted November 25, 2012 One of my favourite stories concerns a sculptor being interviewed by a journalist, and being askied just how he sculpted his latest statue of an elephant; "Easy", said the sculptor, " start with a large block of granite, and simply remove everything that doesn't resemble an elephant........" Herewith the canopy plug! Roughly sawn to shape. ; Out with the David plane. Finished off by Mr Permagrit! The plug has now been treated to a couple of coats of sanding sealer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted November 25, 2012 Author Share Posted November 25, 2012 Meanwhile at the sharp end.... The side cheeks start to take shape. Sheeted top and bottom. The side cheeks have their front blocks added. More block is added below the nose - some of which are the offcuts form the canopy plug. Waste not, want not! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted November 29, 2012 Author Share Posted November 29, 2012 At last I've been able cut the hatch free, and then unbolt the wing from the fuselage. Which left me free to copy Steve Bage's method and to mutilate a mastic gun. This allowed me to wrap a piece of acetate over the mould, and affix the lower edges to a ply baseplate. Then all I had to do was to waft a heat gun over the acetate, whilst simultaneously cranking the lever to extend the mould into the acetate to take advantage of the softening plastic. A bit fiddly, and took around 20 mins to achieve the form I wanted. Brilliant! Released from the mould and checked for size on the airframe... A bit of trimming around the front corners. Edited By Tim Hooper on 29/11/2012 21:35:09 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 29, 2012 Share Posted November 29, 2012 Lovely job Tim, looks like it came out very well indeed Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Concorde Speedbird Posted November 29, 2012 Share Posted November 29, 2012 Looks good! I suppose you don't need a switch on these washing machine powered models SORRY- electric! I use switches with my IC planes because it makes things easier and saves the battery connections. You should build an IC plane one day! (and I may then build a dishwasher SORRY electric plane, I am too cruel!) CS (cruel dept) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted November 29, 2012 Author Share Posted November 29, 2012 Thanks Danny! The only piece of acetate I had that was big enough was fairly thick - and no I haven't measured it. It would be a lot easier with thinner material though.... tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted November 29, 2012 Share Posted November 29, 2012 Tim, I do like the planking . I have never seen a canopy made like that before, very clever stuff! Rich Edited By Richard Harris on 29/11/2012 23:18:23 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted November 29, 2012 Author Share Posted November 29, 2012 Posted by ConcordeSpeedbird on 29/11/2012 23:14:50: You should build an IC plane one day! (and I may then build a dishwasher SORRY electric plane, I am too cruel!) CS, I've built many an ic-powered plane in my past! The last one was in 1975 (when I was 17 years old....), and I've moved forwards since then..... Just a thought for you to ponder though; the traditional switch is reckoned to be just about the dodgiest link in the chain in the average ic-powered model - especially when subject to handling by castor-oil soaked fingers. Rich, I'd never seen this method either, until the link was posted on this here thread! Have to love the power of the internet, eh? tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Concorde Speedbird Posted November 30, 2012 Share Posted November 30, 2012 IC has come a long way since then... I would be inclined to disagree about switches, mainly because through 3 generations and many many planes with switches we have never had a failure. The only failures I could think of happening is if the switch is put on the same side as the exhaust and if the connections are not good. As for castor oil fingers, I don't usually get any oil/fuel on my hands in a session and if I do I have a cloth. I like switches, especially after a battery fell out of our Foam E Wot 4 on landing which does not have a switch! I still think you should build/design an IC model, even if just a 25 sportster. Best to have a foot in both camps! CS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted November 30, 2012 Share Posted November 30, 2012 CSB there are plenty of people who unashamedly design primarily for IC. Peter Millar being one, you really have a lot of choice. Electric models are very much capture the Zeit Geist. For many, it is the only way that powered flight is possible. In our clubs case flying of NT property, although IC is permitted on a another NT property near by, this is a consequence that the owner of the state wrote into the transfer deeds, that right. In the case of electric powered model, conversion is not that difficult. Perhaps a little more robust around the front end. A bay for a fuel tank. Conversion in the opposite direction often takes more thought. A hatch for Lipo access is desirable often. Weight reduction is beneficial. Again doable. I am very pleased that TH unashamedly designs for a power form which is broadly accepted in most communities. Keep up the good work Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted November 30, 2012 Share Posted November 30, 2012 Tim I liked the open cockpit, but I like this better and the forming method, neat! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted December 1, 2012 Author Share Posted December 1, 2012 Thank you Gents! Small, but decisive, progress today. I've made the tailplane mount form 3mm liteplay, with 3mm blindnuts fitted to allow easy removal. After the plate was epoxied to the top of the fin I added some triangle stock beneath to strengthen the joint. Seems the right time to have a look at the spats! As usual I'm making them from layers of balsa (although there's a liteply lamination on the inner face for attachment pruposes. I found a pair of skinny wheels in Penn Models which will allow for a skinny spat when complete. Think I should sand it down a bit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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