Autogyro Maidens for newbies.

[Tom Wright 2]

Hi All.

Most of us are more than capable of building an Autogyro , but many have no experience of what is required to achieve the first successful flights . Some builds have taken months of pains taking care but end up damaged during the first attempt to fly.The reasons for such failures are many fold ,and often very simple, but certain aspects of Autogyro flying are not covered by conventional fixed wing techniques so a different pre flight discipline and adjustment to familiar control input reactions may required.

The idea here is to help pilots new to Autogyros avoid the situations that often result in disappointment .

What do you think?

Tom.

[ken anderson.]

i'm in TW2........anything that will help......

ken anderson....ne..1 north east A/G dept......

[Myron Beaumont]

Ken

I thought you were in NE1 not TW2 or A/G Stick to what you know with help from Mr Jim Carsse etc

Next thing you know you'll be in charge with a food mixer !

[Johnny Kirkham]

Great idea Tom......bring it on cuz I will need all the help I can get

Johnny

[Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator]

Brilliant timing for me Tom! I'm ready to go with the Crane Fly - so trimming and maidening advice gratefully received!

BEB

[Tom Wright 2]

Thanks All.

As a starting point it is important to note that whatever model is built it should be built as per the plan or whatever format is used as a build guide. There well be small mods or changes along the way but stick to the ones that are suggested by the designer .This is were keeping an eye on the associated thread is a good idea, as opposed to an occasional look in.Going your own way with different components materials,and other changes will sometimes make it difficult for the designer to help sort out any problems that may occur later.

So when the model is built and set up to plan,and everything is carefully checked ,the last thing to do is rush to the field and attempt a full power rog or hand launch. At this point it's worth saying that some of the light simple models are intended for hand launching ,at least for the first few flights,were as larger heavier models are best with a graduated approach to rog.

By far the best way of achieving success is to look at the possibility of getting a properly experienced Autogyro pilot to help out with the maiden and monitor your first few solo attempts.A drive over to the designers field is often possible ,and could be a cheaper option than spoiling a carefully built model . There are also regular Autogyro events crammed with knowledgeable and experienced pilots who will be willing to help out .

If you have no option other than make your first solo without help, and the model has taken a fair amount of time and money to produce then it might be worth knocking up a simple lightweight design to get the hang of things before committing to the skies with your pride and joy.

That's my opening view of things ,the next section will cover how to get started with rog and hand launches. All are welcome to comment ,disagree ,or add to this thread ,but please keep questions strictly on topic.

Tom.

[Tom Wright 2]

Part 2.

When arriving at the field check the wind conditions and aim for a light breeze 2-5 mph ,should give easy spin up for rog or hand launch .Next check the position of the sun relative to the into wind heading, this is important as glare from the side or directly in front of the operating area will make disorientation far more likley.If the wind is direction is steady try and identify a distant object as an into wind reference point ,or if the wind is light and variable check every time before each flight . It all sounds like simple common sense but it's surprising how often things get forgotten in the heat of the moment.

Next consider the safety of on lookers or club mates , I have seen a first attempt resulting in a 180 degree turn back towards the pilot and on lookers, so consider all the possibilities and select a safe area . If a mate is hand launching for you make sure he has had time to familiarise himself with the feel of the model and the sound of the rotors at auto rotation ,also make absolutely sure that the model is held well clear of the helpers head , and away from others .

Part three will cover taxi trials and static tests prior to hand launch.

Tom.

[Tom Wright 2]

Part Three.

Most Autogyro plans etc will include a recommended pitch and roll trim setting , along with information on best control movements,hang angle, and the amount of max power that should be available . Do not take it for granted that these settings will guarantee a perfect hands of trim from square one, as all machines tend to require trim adjustment that needs to be done progressively .

One important point about roll trim . This is normally set looking from the rear of the model ,so if confusion about this results in opposite trim the first flight is likely to end in tears.

Ok lets look at some hand held static tests starting with rotor spin up .A light steady breeze is needed here ,the amount will depend to some degree on the blade shim angle as low shim angles will be slower to spin up but will provide more lift when up to speed ,were as higher shim angles will tend to spin up more readily but ultimately give less lift.

Give the rotors a turn by hand and hold the model well up with the rotors angled at 45 degrees or more to the oncoming wind , be patient as some will take time to reach operating speed .Identifiying the sound made by rotors up to speed is very important ,if you are not sure never attempt a launch. Rotors will normally make a swishing sound as they reach speed and you you should be able to feel a significant upward pull equal to the models weight ,take care with larger heavier models as the forces can be considerable.

When good spin up is confirmed and the sound of auto rotation is clearly identified , try and establish if the model is tending to pull left or right ,if so adjust roll trim and test again until the force is vertical .

At this point you could be ready for a first hand launch ,this is best done with the aid of a well briefed assistant so your fingers are ready on the sticks . I have some work to do in preparation for flying tomorrow so I will sign off and continue tomorrow .

Tom.

[Big T]

Fantastic Tom, wish I had had this when I tried my first maiden! One addition to the above with regard to the " hand held spin up" do this WITH THE RADIO ON!!! Radio off could result in a boom strike on some models.

Tim

[Tom Wright 2]

Part Four.

As Tim points out static testing must be done with the TX and RX switched on, otherwise the results will meaningless ,and some dual axis head designs may allow the rotor to strike the fin or boom .This point leads on to the differences between Autogyro designs ,so for the purposes of this thread only two popular formats will be discussed. These models are all tractor designs ,using a flexible triangular flapping plate,and due to it's popularity will include the Auto -G which has a delta 3 head arrangement which works on the same principle but has an offset lateral blade angle built in.

Models such as the Panther , Firefly ,and Crane Fly MK 2 all have a dual axis head that control pitch and roll .Where as the Auto-G and Crane Fly SFH employ a simple hinge that allows roll only control via the rotor .The pitch on these models is controlled by elevator. For on going reference the two types will be identified by the terms singe function head, and dual function head.

The single function head types can be easier to set up, and are often light weight making them generally more suitable for a first attempt, so to get started with the flying side of things we will cover hand launching this type first.

If the model has been set up and trimmed correctly the first flight should mainly involve gentle roll inputs and manipulation of throttle, but the first thing to establish is the amount of power required to get away, and the the amount of forward push needed . If the model is held vertically and power progressively applied you will feel the model getting lighter note the throttle position as a guide to the launch power setting ,and note more is better than two little. As for the amount of "bung" energy required this should not be excessive or to feeble ,these lighter models are capable of rising from your hand into a breeze with an appropriate power setting but for first attempts a firm bung with the rotors up to speed and at a slightly nose up attitude should do the trick.

This is were the fun starts as some quick assessments need to be made with measured control inputs applied to keep things in order. If the model is climbing straight ahead at a fairly high power setting then it will soon get to a distance were the first turn will be to fast and to far away , so as soon as a safety height of 30-50 ft is reached start reducing throttle to the point were the model is maintaining height and travelling at a nice steady speed equivalent to a slow cruise, unless you are a very confident pilot, at this stage, trimming via the Tx will cause an unwanted distraction, so if the model is still fast hold a little up in and re adjust power ,and if possible land straight ahead by reducing power progressively and using the elevator to flare as terra firma approaches.Should the landing be less than perfect then give the model a good check over before a further attempt is made, a slightly bent rotor bolt will change the trim sufficiently to completely spoil a further flight.

It is likely that the first attempt will also involve some use of roll correction, if this is applied to coarsely while the model is tearing about at speed then you will be lucky to recover the model . These early sorties should be all about establishing a steady cruise speed ,and establishing if trim adjustments are needed to avoid holding in roll or pitch on sticks. When correct trim settings have been established don't expect to be flying hands off while chatting to mates ,full concentration and focus will be needed throughout all early flights .

If you find the model climbing out ok but pulling left or right hold on the sticks reduce power and land , as a model out of trim in roll is very difficult to fly particularly for a first Autogyro flight.

The next section will look at making successful turns with the single function head machines.

Tom.

 

Edited By Tom Wright 2 on 30/03/2013 15:08:58

[Erfolg]

Tom, I am already worried!

[Tom Wright 2]

Part Five .

Things always seem more complicated when written , in reality I have carried out many maiden flights with single and dual function head machines that have been none events ,but ! although I do not consider my self to be an expert I have flown Autogyros before, and that makes a big difference .Pilots who are very confident coordinating four primary controls will often do well , but can still be caught out by Autogyro characteristics and particularly disorientation.However many who are more comfortable with three channels have a little less to think about and will probably get on better, with a lightweight single axis machine with no rudder. This brings us on to the continuation from part four and the point were successful changes in direction can be made with such machines.

Excessive speed and distance away from the pilot are the first major factors that determine success or failure ,add in glare ,and distraction , to set up the ideal conditions for un repeatable utterances, and a damaged model . Good sun glasses, and a distraction free environment are as important as controlling speed.

Many pilots prefer a left hand circuit direction , if if this is you then start by only making turns to the left , just a slight nudge on the stick should produce a bank, if the control input is to course, the bank angle should be restricted by short applications of opposite stick but be careful not to over control or let the nose drop .Very gentle turns can be achieved without use of elevator but initiating a bank and then neutralising the stick while applying back stick and a touch more power should get you around ok . If you are finding the first minute in the air stressful reduce power progressively and land to take stock of what may be needed for a more relaxed flight .

This may to some seem hard work but belive me when I say , flying these machines can be very easy indeed it's just a matter of developing an instinctive feel, and a little practise . One of the things to note is the sink rate characteristics , the best average glide angle in power off auto rotation is around 45 degrees, so that's a heck of a sink rate that has to be allowed for throughout the flight , unchecked high bank angles , and sudden power reductions , will need prompt corrective action .

Part Six will look at achieving rog with a single axis machine fitted with a rudder.

Tom.

[ozjimthree3]

Hallo Tom, thank you very much for the "Pilot's Notes". I saw your thread on the Crane Fly while i was in Australia. After contacting you and getting the PDF download, I was keen to get building. My Crane Fly is almost finished now, and to say the least I've been more than a little apprehensive about the first flight. Now that I've read and re-read your observations, I'm starting to feel as though I might just be able to fly the model.

Thanks again for all your input

Brian Jackson.

[Delta Whiskey]

All good stuff thx, but also try it on Phoenix !

[Tom Wright 2]

Part Six.

Before going on to rog , a comment on pitch control .Most simple single axis head models I have flown are easy going in pitch , but insufficient elevator movement or undetected requirement for some up trim could make the model much more difficult to fly . I prefer to start out with a little up trim as this can make it easier to get the model settled in to slow cruise , and get you away in a climb rather than screaming along at a rate of knots. Holding in some forward stick is to me anyway easier than holding in back stick ,some may disagree but this thread is just an account of my experience to date.

Early ROG attempts are often a pitfall for first timers,ending in roll over at speed . Before trying this it's a good idea to become proficient at touch and goes, then knowing the model is flyable and in trim , the next job is to try a slow taxi into a light wind and note any tendency to turn left or right ,this should be done without operating any controls other than throttle, most of these machines have a simple undercarriage leg that can be adjusted until the model tracks straight. ROG in calm conditions will require a longer run use of a rudder and more pilot skill . Lining up and opening the throttle flat out will most likely end in dented pride and a very roughed up model . The only way to rog in calm conditions is to start the rotors turning by hand and immediately start the model moving forward at slow speed leave the elevator alone and concentrate on keeping straight into any wind just using rudder. If it is not obvious that the rotors are gaining rpm try short blips on the throttle but don't be tempted to open up and go for it ,until you are sure the rotors are coming close to operating speed . Use of up elevator to force the model airborne will not work if the rotor speed is to low .

If there is a light to moderate breeze then rog can be very easy but keeping into wind becomes vital. Again start the rotors turning by hand and check if the rpm is increasing before starting the ground roll ,if a slow forward speed is further increasing rpm , it's a matter of judging when to apply sufficient power to get away cleanly.If you get this right once then don't get over confident ,but approach each attempt with caution until a real feel for the exercise is gained.

Operating in moderate or even relatively high winds is quite possible when sufficient experience has been gained , but as you push the limits you will find the only significant limitation of elevator instead of pitch controlled by the rotor . This is likely to come to light following a landing into a blow and the model rears up and goes over backwards .This can often be prevented by immediately lowering the rotors at touch down on a model fitted with a dual axis head.

I hope all this if of at least some help to you guys that have yet to gain your Autogyro wings. It's certainly harder to explain things in text than it is to sort a model out at the field and get it flying .

At this point if there are any questions I will be more than happy to have a go at the answers.

Tom.

[Tom Wright 2]

Part Seven.

Hmm ,no questions ! So a word about downwind legs . Even with a modest breeze the ground speed,increases, and so the time taken for the model to get to an undesirable distance from the pilot is less .This requires forward thinking and a stop on any urge to slow the model down .Plan to initiate the cross wind turn ,or even turn back into wind well before distance becomes a problem .This is were the confident four channel pilots are at an advantage, as if the model is fitted with rudder,a near instant 180 degree flat turn can be achieved, this manoeuvre is not difficult ,but will require some practise and identification of the best entry technique needed for a particular model .

Most pilots find that maintaining orientation, becomes a problem during early flights ,and later as experience is gained,and when some over confidence creeps in . Keeping the model reasonably close, not to high ,and at a steady speed helps,along with the old method of standing side on to the direction off flight. Maintaining focus on one part of the model also seems to help, I tend to follow the tail but a well defined part of the decor can also be used is a focal point . Many employ bright contrasting colours ,but the effectiveness does depend on the light conditions, and the viewing angle between the pilot and model.

Tom.

 

Edited By Tom Wright 2 on 01/04/2013 16:05:19

[Tom Wright 2]

Part Eight.

To conclude a repeat of my earlier suggestion to seek the help of a properly experienced Autogyro pilot for the first flights , these guys can often handle situations that a first timer would not . A long drive to a get together ,or to a forum friend,can be a modest investment in terms of the fun you will have after gaining you Autogyro wings .

Don't let luck be a factor .

All the best.

Tom.

[Erfolg]

Many thanks for your efforts Tom. I much appreciate the time and effort taken. I think many modellers will find the guide helpful.

Over the next few days i am sure many additional questions will come to the forefront of our collective minds. I am hopeful that you will continue to provide further advice.

[Tom Wright 2]

Thanks Erfolg,. Following the test flight today of my latest wing assisted Autogyro, some might want to look at that configuration as a first experience.

Tom.

[Tom Wright 2]

This months issue of RCME includes an excellent article by Proff Dave Burton , on the use of the throttle stick ,and how some pilots ,referred to as"Fast Freddie" ,may not appreciate the the relationship between trim and power applied . This may appear to be pretty straight forward ,but even if you have been an rc pilot for a while it's well worth a read .

As Dave is a Crane Fly builder ,I am surprised he did not include a reference to Auto gyros as the relationship between the factors discussed are particularly relevant to Auto gyros ,and any misunderstanding in a the mind of a new Auto gyro pilot ,would make a successful maiden flight much more difficult.

Have a read and see what you think .

Tom.

[Terry Whiting 1]

Tom, I for one would like to thank you for the time in putting together this very explicit thread .

Terry

[Tom Wright 2]

Thanks Terry ,the kind words are appreciated ..

Tom.

[Johnny Kirkham]

Tom thanks very much for taking the time to share your wisdom with us auto-g newbies. Ive just read the whole thread from start to finish and really enjoyed it. Not only are you a great auto gyro designer/pilot but you are a great author too (unlike me on both accounts) lol.

Thanks again Johnny

[Tom Wright 2]

Johnny.

Generous words indeed , thank you . If just one line of my ramblings makes the difference between success or failure, then it's been worth the effort.

Tom.

[Jonathan Bickerton 1]

I have recently built a burky 2 autogyro and have tried a couple of times to fly, unfortunately both ending in tears.

After reading the articles written by Tom Wright its now apparent to me that the rotors are not getting up to speed.

The question is why they are not getting up to speed, i have not made any of my own modifications and is built as Richard Harris designed it . The rotors will spin up in a gale but refuse to increase in speed by either running with the model or pulsing the power on the ground. I live in the Notts area and would welcome someone trimming this model out for me.