noba Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 Hi called SAS yesterday to order a Fusion 46 but it seem this model has been sent to that graveyard on the slope it is no more so after a chat with that nice Alan Head decided to order the new wildthing MH? seems it is the best wildthing yet the root chord has lost about 1" plus one or two other small changes i cannot remember so much info in one short chat i also got a short history about the birth of the Cygnus the one in my avatar there are i was told still some fusion 60s to be had so think i might get one. If there is anything i should watch out for in my wildthing build i would be happy to hear from anyone who has built wildthing allready. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 The search function is your friend here noba.....see here The Wildthing has quite a following amongst the members.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noba Posted May 23, 2013 Author Share Posted May 23, 2013 Thanks Steve never thought about the search fucntion to be honest must have had one of those senior citizen moments still never mind i will have forgoten by the time i have finished this post cheers dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheFlyingCrust Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 The instructions say to chop the mounting tags off the servo's. I didn't. I just cut slots in the wing to accept them. Worked ok and if I need to recover the servos they're not spoiled. Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben goodfellow 1 Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 ive had one for about 6 weeks or so now , brilliant in light to mod wind.ifyou could , and i would if i was building it again put a ballast tube in . its too light for heavy winds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Houghton 1 Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 Posted by ben goodfellow 1 on 23/05/2013 18:20:24: and i would if i was building it again put a ballast tube in . its too light for heavy winds I guess it depends what you call "heavy winds"! I've flown mine loads of times in 30-35mph no problem. I know the guys who fly from the Orme fly in much heavier but I'm not sure thats my idea of fun. Mine has been flying for 2 years now and is in need of a rebuild, so I've now grounded it and that is my next modelling task. A470Soaring.blogspot.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Satinet Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 the fusion 46 has the same wing as the wildthing 46. Maybe that's why the fusion has been stopped - they are too similar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Green Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 Posted by Rentman on 23/05/2013 17:25:41: The instructions say to chop the mounting tags off the servo's. I didn't. I just cut slots in the wing to accept them. Worked ok and if I need to recover the servos they're not spoiled. Ian Me too, just a couple of slots avoids the need to butcher servos Posted by ben goodfellow 1 on 23/05/2013 18:20:24: ive had one for about 6 weeks or so now , brilliant in light to mod wind.ifyou could , and i would if i was building it again put a ballast tube in . its too light for heavy winds I disagree Ben - as Alan himself says, ballast isnt necessary, mine has flown numerous times in 45mph and well over, and its fine without. Cheers Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben goodfellow 1 Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 i was in 40 plus the other night and it would nt penetrate i was flying in over 60 knots a few weeks ago and it was really struggling and that was with a load of lead taped to it Edited By ben goodfellow 1 on 23/05/2013 19:01:34 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben goodfellow 1 Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 i dissagree mine needed lead or id be chasing it over the hill at 1lb odd its just too light for heavy winds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Green Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 The hard part is launching it (unless you have a helper) once its away mine penetrates a gale just fine as standard, no mods, no ballast. Allan does specifically say not to ballast it. I do enjoy big wind but the thought of 'taping a load of lead' to a model is quite scary - if it hit someone the damage could be really nasty, just think of the kinetic energy in that piece of lead if it impacted on a downwind leg at what, 70mph? Cheers Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 BALLAST NOT ADVISED FOR THE WILDTHINGS..... more down trim, plenty of down elevator, and practice. Ballast will kill it, or worse, someone when arriving, and if the wind is too strong for her...then buy more toys more suited to high winds. 2P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Houghton 1 Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 Posted by Tim Mackey on 23/05/2013 19:51:21: BALLAST NOT ADVISED FOR THE WILDTHINGS..... more down trim, plenty of down elevator, and practice. Ballast will kill it, or worse, someone when arriving, and if the wind is too strong for her...then buy more toys more suited to high winds. 2P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noba Posted May 23, 2013 Author Share Posted May 23, 2013 Hi thanks to everyone for your answers as for the ballast v non ballast im all for no ballast but i respect others opinions if we all thought the same well this hobby would never advance.i have flown lots of wings/deltas and would rather fly without ballast if possible for me trim is the answer i have tried ballast in wings a couple of times and didnt like it the model has to fly fast or it can still fall out of the sky then there is the landing a couple of sites i fly seem to have a dead zone on the landing patch plenty of blow coming over the rocks to keep the model in the air until you get below 10 feet then you hit the dead zone no lift no blow it is easy with an unballasted model a sharp turn with the ailerons and you can drop the model below the blow into the dead zone opposite aileron to level the model and your on the deck just a little elevator at the last moment it allways works no matter how the wind is blowing but cannot do this with ballast in as once you hit the dead zone slap its down and if your lucky the ballast dont come through the model seems ive gone of course a bit here sorry guys but most of my flying up untill now has been in good blows as could only fly when not working but now im retired can go when i choose and the wife loves it which really helps anyway my wildthing will be here tommorow so might not get on here for a day or so Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Jones Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 Posted by Tom Satinet on 23/05/2013 18:39:42: the fusion 46 has the same wing as the wildthing 46. Maybe that's why the fusion has been stopped - they are too similar? Yep that's right. When I bought my Fusion AH said he was thinking about putting the Fusion wing on a Mk4 Wildthing and indeed subsequently did so. This meant that the only difference in the two was the shape of the fin so I suppose keeping both in production was then a bit pointless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noba Posted May 24, 2013 Author Share Posted May 24, 2013 When i phoned to order the fusion 46 i was told no longer doing it because the root chord had been made smaller and it was found that this smaller chord wing flew better with the wildthing fin than it did with the fusion fin the reason being that the fin on the wildthing overhangs the rear of the wing giving more stability with the shorter chord at least thats what i seem to remember was said anyway im sure it will still fly ok also remember alan head saying no more mk4,mk5,ect he wont be using mk numbers any more so this new model is a wildthing mhs not sure about the s bit he did say it stands for mill hill something or other because that happens to be his local slope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris basson Posted May 24, 2013 Share Posted May 24, 2013 My only Tip is...When you've applied the first layer of strapping tape, put the wing cores back into their blanks and put LOTS of weight (books?) On top over night. I say this because I Failed, in my enthusiasm, to do this and went straight onto the coloured tape stage only to find a couple of days later that the CW tape had lifted in places, not the end of the world but far from ideal!I think the ballast, is a personal issue, mine currently has 90g on the nose but I'm going to incrementally remove this & trim out as I go, I have only had 2 outings to date the first in 20ish mph & had a ball, the second in 35 gusting 45 and was noticing some wing tip flutter in my more "high energy" manouvers, possibly down to a combination of the extra weight and the CW tape being not properly adhered.Just my 2p!CBEdited By chris basson on 24/05/2013 08:21:09 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted May 24, 2013 Share Posted May 24, 2013 When applying the tape , avoid pulling tight as this will buckle the wing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted May 24, 2013 Share Posted May 24, 2013 Posted by cymaz on 24/05/2013 09:03:16: When applying the tape , avoid pulling tight as this will buckle the wing. Absolutely right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Satinet Posted May 24, 2013 Share Posted May 24, 2013 I can't really see understand the instructions being so vehemently against ballast. I have flown the fusion 46 (the orginal) with a bit of ballast and it was absolultely fine. I would not ballast too far beyond say half it's flying weight, but I think it is fine, if done sensibly (i.e not a bit of a lead handing off it). I didn't really agree with no covering the underside or joing the wing halfs after they were taped either to be honest (nor did I use the supplied copydex-esque glue come to think of it). Down trimming is not the same as increasing the weight and is a less effiecent way to fly. If it was a simple as down trimming models there would be no such thing as ballast. (ditto for full size gliding). Agreed there are better models for high winds generally speaking. Ballast isn't the same as weight required on the nose (or tail) to balance a model. To be honest the key to getting a good wildthing (which will fly well in strong winds) is keeping the drag to a minimum with a clean, straight build. I have seen many zagis/wildies/etc at my local slope with covering having off, improperly balanced, and with trim to mask build errors. Use the wing beds and make sure the CW tape and other covering don't warp the model. They are a heck of a lot easier to fly and setup if built straight and true. I am not suggesting you cannot build it straight I have just seen that many wonky epp models in my time sloping that I know what the effect is. The wildy/fusion isn't that easy to build dead straight, to be honest, because the spar doesn't extend to the tips and there is no drag spar the on trailiing edge (and the EPP is fairly flexible). That isn't a criticism - the amount of freash epp and correx control surfaces make the model what it is - pretty much indestructible. I wouldn't worry too much about whether you are getting a fusion or a wildy mark whatever, but it straight, get the covering stuck down and balance it properly and it will fly very well. I like 3m '77 spray to help CW tape stick to an epp wing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noba Posted May 25, 2013 Author Share Posted May 25, 2013 Hi well the wildthing arrived ok but i have a few questions about the build for anyone who can help out please first of all what do you do about the slit which runs full length of the spar underneath the wing do you glue it shut or is it ok to leave it and the tape keeps it closed up i cannot find any mention of it in the instructions or on the forum search so was thinking i would glue a 5mm flat carbon spar in this slot full length of the wing now the hatch under the fuz i see most seem to use velcro what type of glue is best for fixing velcro to foam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris basson Posted May 25, 2013 Share Posted May 25, 2013 IIRC the spars provided by Alan are well over the length listed in the instructions so i pushed them in almost to the tips and still had the reccomended amount of overlap in the center, the CW tape & friction stops them coming out! If you use velcro to keep the hatch closed, you'll have to remove some foam to recess it or the hatch won't close properly! Fine if you want to do that & I'd just use self adhesive pads, however I decided to miss out the switch, add an extention lead from rx to plug/unplug the battery and secure the hatch with a piece of sellotape! On my last outing I plugged Battery in when i arriveed "slopeside" and unplugged 2 hours later when the heavens opened, this time included about 1 1/2 hours in the air (a much better rate of airtime vs. fiddling time than when i fly i.c.!) & When I cycled the Rx pack at home i only put back in about 500ma for a 1700mah battery so capacity shouldn't be an issue! It sounds as if you have plenty of experience of sloping with flying wings, any more questions with the build i'm Sure will be answered on here! Enjoy Chucking her of a Big Hill! CB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noba Posted May 25, 2013 Author Share Posted May 25, 2013 Thanks for the reply chris but not with you about the spars and the overlap in the center there is only one spar in the kit i have that is a round carbon tube about 6mm diameter nearly full length of the wing it stops about 4" short of each wingtip this fits in the hole in the wings but underneath the wing there is a slot cut through into the hole for the round spar there are no other spars in the kit am i missing a spar or is this slot in the bottom of the wing just part of the proccess when the the hole for the round spar is cut. Thanks david Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Green Posted May 25, 2013 Share Posted May 25, 2013 Theres only one spar. Tape the wings individually, dont worry about the slot, thats just where Alan drops the hot wire in to cut the spar hole - ignore it. Mark the centre of the spar with masking tape so you know how far to push it into one wing. Then thread the other wing onto the spar, push it home (I use POR as contact adhesive), tape the wing joint and add the fus as per the instructions. Make sure you keep the horns close together - I didnt and had to open out the tail end to clear the pushrods (see previous WT thread) Cheers Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheFlyingCrust Posted May 25, 2013 Share Posted May 25, 2013 Noba, Can I recommend a good book? "Eats, shoots and leaves". Just kidding. Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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