Steve Jones 2 Posted June 7, 2019 Share Posted June 7, 2019 My 2 models are fitted with 10x6e props as I could not get the 3 blade ones. This moves the motor up but it seems to work as both fly well. As for the blades and balsaloc I use it during balancing as it works. I have also used pva .Don’t think it matters how you balance the blades as long as you achieve it steve Edited By Steve Jones 2 on 07/06/2019 20:30:47 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthony kay 1 Posted June 7, 2019 Share Posted June 7, 2019 Hi just started gathering all the bits to have a go at this machine need some help on how to set up the radio ,I use spektrum DX8 on mode 1 if any can help please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Jones 2 Posted June 8, 2019 Share Posted June 8, 2019 I use Spektrum too mode 1. 2 head servos are set up as a delta model by Wing type eleven.. mixes 2 together for pitch and roll.. make sure you use good metal geared servos not nylon geared ones. If model tips over on take off and landing then with blades there is enough energy to strip nylon geared servos Rich and I fly mode1 so when your ready to test, if not too far maybe help is at hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Dowell Posted June 8, 2019 Share Posted June 8, 2019 Is there a problem with the video clips on this site ?...or it could just simply be me … because I only black boxes. Chris... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted June 8, 2019 Author Share Posted June 8, 2019 Posted by Chris Dowell on 08/06/2019 10:05:13: Is there a problem with the video clips on this site ?...or it could just simply be me … because I only black boxes. Chris... Chris, Everything is good this side of the globe. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Dowell Posted June 9, 2019 Share Posted June 9, 2019 Thanks Rich as I said...must be simple me .I was going to put up a flying Revolver video ..but I'm pretty sure it will not appear. You know I must be good at something....just haven't found out yet what it is ( I had better be quick) Chris... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted June 9, 2019 Author Share Posted June 9, 2019 Chris, Are you talking about the black box you get in a reply when you have copied and pasted the youtube embed code? If so this is normal as when you press the 'add posting' tab the 'black box' becomes the video once done. Try it? Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Dowell Posted June 10, 2019 Share Posted June 10, 2019 Rich What I mean by black box...is where there is supposed to be a video, and I did see the one you posted of my "balancing Act " for a short time...but now it's a black box. I also find this site runs very slow. I type the words and then sit and wait to see them appear.(strange) Chris... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big T Posted June 10, 2019 Share Posted June 10, 2019 Posted by B YELLOP on 07/06/2019 09:01:35: Hi, the article says prop is 8x7.5. It is illustrated as 3 blades. On this site I have seen many pictures/vids that are 2 bladed!. What is the size recommended for the D3530/14 motor and how many blades please. Being a returnee I have a lot to learn. Regarding the balancing of the main rotor blades. You recommend using Balsaloc , I assume this is to add weight in the right place!!. What else can be used as my local model shop has indicated that this type of product is not widely used. What type of product is acceptable for same purpose, assuming it will be covered at some point? As is glaringly obvious I have every thing to learn about modern covering types and techniques so please bare with me. So many questions, sorry to be such a pain . Barry Edited By B YELLOP on 07/06/2019 09:05:43 I have tried several methods of blade covering and balancing. For adding weight to the blade before covering I have used I have used urethane varnish, balsaloc, pva, water based primer undercoat, They all work. Traditionally I used a heat shrink covering film ensuring that I use the same amount on each blade. For final balance after covering I normally use electrical insulation tape on the c of g. To move the c of g I insert small nails in the end of the blade and fix in place with glue. We have even used coins as a field fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disciple of Autogyros Posted June 10, 2019 Share Posted June 10, 2019 Hi Rich, I maidened the Revolver yesterday. The wind was gusty and coming from all directions, but a helper and I went off the patch to some very long grass as I'd preempted crashing!. It was a hand launch taking account of the shifting wind direction. First launch my helper held the Revolver too vertical so the wind blew it backwards and crashed (no damage - the long grass was a good idea!. Second launch, helper launched much flatter this time, but I didn't have enough throttle so it flew for a bit then crashed - no damage (I love the long grass). Third launch, flatter and full power, flew off like a dream, It did a couple of circuits but it struggled big time in turns, I concluded that I didn't have enough throw built in for roll, however I was unable to adjust this as shortly after it nosed dived but, wasn't saved by the long grass this time. However the only damage was the mast snapped and nose wheel bent. I've made and fitted a new mast and unbent the nose under carriage. All good to go again. In case your wondering, the servos are Corona MG rated at 4kg. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuban8 Posted June 10, 2019 Share Posted June 10, 2019 That's a shame DoL. Perhaps more of a chance in slightly better weather? How much roll movement do you think you'll need to adjust in? BTW, managed to get a reasonable canopy from my 3L pop bottle thanks to your advice Haven't had as much time as I'd like to get my Revolver finished, getting close though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted June 12, 2019 Author Share Posted June 12, 2019 Mike, Nice to hear you have got your Revolver into the air, your a braver man than me undertaking a maiden in those conditions as I prefer things to be almost flat calm. Glad the damage sustained is minimal, the mast is an easy replacement and its always worth making a few spare. To keep you one stop ahead before a maiden a little trick is to 'pre trim' an autogyro by holding it into wind above your head with the blades spinning at full rpm. By doing this you can feel if the model is pulling in any direction to which it can be trimmed to suit, obviously it is not as accurate as doing test hops but it can give you a good head start. It is worth noting that if this is done the easiest way to slow the blades down is to rotate the model so that the blades upper face are directed at the wind. On another note I am nearing the completion of a canopy plug for SARIK specific for the Revolver II, more to come on that. Rich Edited By Richard Harris on 12/06/2019 09:31:35 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basil Posted June 12, 2019 Share Posted June 12, 2019 Richard, forgive me for what seems such a simple question to an expert like yourself but........ I am trying to cut out the hole/slot in the rear cabin cover for the control rods from servo to the head. I am using the same servo as yourself. They servo arm has a travel of some 135 degs, This amount of travel would require an enormous slot to allow full travel of the servo arm. I have examined the pics on the post , and the slots seem quite small. Is it possible to show a shot of the slot or more and perhaps some guidence for a long in the tooth novice lilke myself. I've got this far and don't want to make a big boo boo and have to make another fuse'g. Many thanks Barry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Jones 2 Posted June 12, 2019 Share Posted June 12, 2019 I put my servos reversed to the plan with the output arms at the bottom not top. This makes the head control rods a bit longer but means the cut out for the arms and their movement is only required in the fuselage and not the canopy. I am a bit confused in your comment on servo travel of 135 deg.. normally servos move approx +/- 45 deg from centre position - 90 deg total ?? Steve Edited By Steve Jones 2 on 12/06/2019 16:28:51 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basil Posted June 12, 2019 Share Posted June 12, 2019 Steve, I measured the travel with one of those servo testers!!!!!. I assume then that this is not reflective of the travel experienced when using a TX??( Older person returned to hobby after many years, trying to catch up on everything, but learning fast, also not afraid to look an idiot, wether I am or not !!!!!!!!) That's me. I am waiting for comment by Richard before taking the plunge and cutting away the front of the mast support/fuc'ge . Barry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted June 12, 2019 Author Share Posted June 12, 2019 Barry, I mirror what Steve has suggested, as long as you leave clearance between your arm and the fuselage side you will be fine. Start off with full movement in roll then cut to clear. A wise man once told me the only daft question is the one that's never asked! Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basil Posted June 14, 2019 Share Posted June 14, 2019 Rich,is there a specific reason why the rotor blades are designed to revolve in the direction they are, other than the orientation of the aerofoil profile.? For instance if the profile were reversed would the blades go in the other direction.? Or should I not get involved with the science!!!!! Barry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuban8 Posted June 14, 2019 Share Posted June 14, 2019 With a gale blowing outside and rain that's curtailed house painting, gardening and most importantly my usual visits to the flying field my Revolver II has taken a big step forward. Finally on to the blades. Have managed to get my blade blanks cut out and to within a gramme of each other, so not too bad. All clear on what's to be done except I don't understand the detail about the rectangular shaded area within the reinforcement and 10mm dimension shown at the blade root underside on the plan - see pic. Help! Edit....just had a thought .....incidence packing? Edited By Cuban8 on 14/06/2019 21:05:04 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malcolm - coolwind.co.uk Posted June 14, 2019 Share Posted June 14, 2019 Posted by Cuban8 on 14/06/2019 21:02:21: Edit....just had a thought .....incidence packing? Edited By Cuban8 on 14/06/2019 21:05:04 Yes, incidence packing on the blade underside to give a little bit of -negative incidence (if required) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted June 21, 2019 Author Share Posted June 21, 2019 Posted by B YELLOP on 14/06/2019 09:28:24: Rich,is there a specific reason why the rotor blades are designed to revolve in the direction they are, other than the orientation of the aerofoil profile.? For instance if the profile were reversed would the blades go in the other direction.? Or should I not get involved with the science!!!!! Barry Barry, So for the delay in replying, up to my neck stripping out my kitchen. In the early days I did test combinations of opposite spinning blades in both 2 and 3 configurations with anti clockwise spinning props. Though there is not a lot of difference they do tend to turn to the retreating blade direction with a little less effort on the thumbs. Clearly if anyone does try a clockwise spinning set the roll trim would be biased to the right. On another note we have our first autogyro get together this weekend over in Peterborough, I don't think the details have been posted on this site but all are welcome. If anyone does fancy popping over let me know and I will get the organiser to post details? Weather is looking favourable. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted June 23, 2019 Author Share Posted June 23, 2019 Yesterday saw the first of our autogyro fly-ins, a couple of new (to me) Revolvers turned up. A few photos I managed to grab in between flying. Big thanks to Ian and his clubmates in Peterborough for the invite Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big T Posted June 23, 2019 Share Posted June 23, 2019 Great pictures Rich, it was a great day to test out the Revolver 2 in different wind conditions as the thermals went through. I need to make a couple of mods to the Suzuki Revolver. Air scoops and vent holes to cool the ESC and a better Lipo security metnod. Apart from that she flew like a dream. Thanks go to Ian and club mates for the day. Well worth the 1.5 hour drive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aviatormax Posted July 3, 2019 Share Posted July 3, 2019 Hi Richard, I’m starting the Revolver II building, and I have two question: It is worth to have the front wheel steerable? The empennage is made in depron, but I don’t have this material, is it the same if I use balsa? Many thanks, Massimo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted July 3, 2019 Author Share Posted July 3, 2019 Hi Massimo, Welcome to the forum. No reason why the Revolver wouldn't benefit from a steerable nose wheel, I kept it fixed to simplify things and have had no issues. Balsa should be fine for the tail feathers, just keep an eye on the CG. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Dowell Posted July 4, 2019 Share Posted July 4, 2019 I can understand why Rich did not fit a steerable nose wheel...and that's because the rudder has enough authority for any ground tracking and quite often steerable nose wheels have been known to take a bit of a bashing. Chris... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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