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Revolver Pusher type Autogyro trainer


Richard Harris
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Rich, did you ever get round to testing the Panther blades on the Revolver? I'm seriously contemplating building the Revolver and, being a lazy so and so, not having to make another set of blades would probably swing the decision!

Trevor

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Trevor,

The larger Revolver flies with the Panther blades as does the RPG but I haven't yet tried them on the published version.

They are pretty much the same length but quite a bit wider.

We did test the Panther tri plate out but mine was the only one that would fly consistently which is why we switched to the double plate configuration Graham was flying with on pretty much all of his models.

 

Leave it with me as I have quite a number of panther blades used for testing the first time round.

 

Rich

Edited By Richard Harris on 29/05/2019 21:01:54

Edited By Richard Harris on 29/05/2019 21:02:36

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Rich

I was thinking when I built this model that this would be the one to fly as a two blade. Over the years I have tried a Minimum,Mantis and Atom.....but to be honest they were all on the twitchy side and not as "comfortable "to fly.

SOOOOOOO I do hope you show us the "magic" two blade conversion for this model.

Happy Landings

Chris...

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Hi, I have returned to modelling after a long break, decided to make Revolver!!!!.

I have a problem in the selection of the rudder servo!!. There is limited room and the one I bought does not fit, to tall .

hacked things about, the only way is to mount from under the ply mount cutting away the 6mm balsa floor, I am not happy with this. Could you tell us which one you used, so I would be sure it fitted please. Also puzzled hoe you would get the push/pull lines in after closure!!!

Barry

PS Love the model I hope I can get it to fly Thanks

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Posted by B YELLOP on 30/05/2019 08:33:48:

Hi, sorry but I forgot to say that I tried a Tower pro SG92R that's 14mm min from the ply support to the top of the arm.barry

If its any use, I used a HiTech 83mg. I also didnt like the idea of burying the servo (and misread the plan LOL) so I have mine with the control arm sticking out and the pull pull wires held in tension with a clip I designed on Fusion 360 and printed up. If I was building again I might consider putting in 2 tubes as guides as per the RH Gemini or even a lightweight wire pushrod as the Depron is rather fragile and mine has cracked around the horn in transit.

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Barry,

Welcome to the forum.

To answer your question the servo I have used for my rudder is a 9g turnigy TG9 unit. It has clearance between the hatch bottom and the top of the control arm. Letting the bottom of your servo into the the 6mm base former will be fine, I have done this on a few models with no adverse effects.

As for connecting it up, mount the servo first and tie up the lines to the servo arm ( not fitted). Mount the servo arm and run the wires through the clearance holes in the fuselage bottom. Connect and tie up the other ends of the lines to the rudder horn making sure they are tight, then tie. You can keep the rudder straight whilst doing this with a couple of balsa scraps and some clothes pegs. You can add drops cyano to each not to hold fast.

It's also worth noting to keep throws in proportion it's best to keep the lines parallel with each other so match up your holes in the rudder control rod to to match the servo arm.

Hope this makes sense? A few photos that may help.

20190530_141723.jpg

20190530_140101.jpg

20190530_140028.jpg

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So, the blades were removed off the Panther Tri plate and bolted directly onto the Revolver double plate (I had to open the mounting holes to 5mm). As the blades are slightly wider and have no negative shims I increased the hang angle by fitting a Turnigy Nano Tech 2650mah 3s Lipo, raised the motor and fitted a 10 x 7 aeronout prop.

With blades mounted on to the Panther they are naturally presented to the oncoming air with a good angle of attack with its feet sat on the ground, this isn't so with a pusher so there was quite a long takeoff run. Once airborne there were no trim changes and the model felt lightly loaded. The air however was quite bumpy around the crop edge with thermals coming through constantly.

With the extra lift it didn't penetrate into wind as good as the 'original' set of blades, that said, with shims fitted I am sure it will match them.

I had 5 flights in all and came away pretty please, when I get chance I will try adding shims and see if it improves things further.

Two thumbs up from me for anyone wanting to use a set of Panther blades for this model.

A bit of video footage I managed to grab.

Rich

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Thanks Rich and appreciate the comments. A great design of model needs to catch the eye. Yes I think there could be some more motorsport ones .. Gents start your engines !’

Maiden done tonight and goes well on 3 blades. A circuit too on 2 blades but kept my thumbs busy !!! A little more tuning required to dial that one in I think

steve

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Hi, the article says prop is 8x7.5. It is illustrated as 3 blades. On this site I have seen many pictures/vids that are 2 bladed!. What is the size recommended for the D3530/14 motor and how many blades please. Being a returnee I have a lot to learn.

Regarding the balancing of the main rotor blades.

You recommend using Balsaloc , I assume this is to add weight in the right place!!. What else can be used as my local model shop has indicated that this type of product is not widely used. What type of product is acceptable for same purpose, assuming it will be covered at some point? As is glaringly obvious I have every thing  to learn about modern covering  types and techniques so please bare with me.

So many questions, sorry to be such a pain .

Barry

Edited By B YELLOP on 07/06/2019 09:05:43

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Barry,

The 8x7.5 " prop was a typo error in the magazine, it should be a 9x7.5" 3 blade prop. Rule of thumb when using a like for like 2 blade prop is to go 1" in diameter and a little less on the pitch, in our case something like a 10x6" 2 blade prop.

As for BalsaLoc it is still readily available HERE and is used to weight the blade to aid balancing. Though I have never tried I have heard that PVA can be used as a replacement for BalsaLoc?

What is worth noting that you have to over compensate the application as it does get lighter once dry.

I also know a few gyronuts that use epoxy in the same way smeared in the right area to good effect.

Rich

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